Cubes

A clean will tell you if they really are leaking.

Depends how bad.. Fuel leaks from the injector especially when the cars off.. Dilutes your oil and the oil no longer does its job properly. No first hand experience. Probably not that bad but its worth getting it sorted.

Twin BIG Cannons FTW!!!

I don't like the wastegate merge point on the JJ or AM ones. Bos importing looks fine. The CES dump pipe is also good BUT has a poor placement of the o2 sensor as the o2 sensors must be positioned upright.

.........Isn't stating he knows the 'exact' ins and outs of a cats bum hole. Its stating he knows the ramifactions of running no cat on a street car = bent over with no vaso and a big arsed fine slapped in his arse made out of really stiff scrunched up paper. I care less of the exact fine one would receive as it doesn't apply to me. Questions have been answered. Thread Closed.

Its generally around 10-15rwkw with improved spool depending on what cat your comparing it to and power level. Your best legal option is to throw a metal cat in it. Hit the track throw a decat pipe in to save your expensive cat. I'm sure monga knows exactly the ramifactions of running no cat on a street car. *thread cleaned*

Its also bad for your oil which stuffs bearings.

Louder.. Hardly. If its already loud its loud. It won't make a quietish exhaust system turn in to a noticably loud one. It does make the exhaust sound a little more grunty/deep.

VLSD here. No problems with shudder. I run a 9puk cushioned with the stock flywheel. Whats yours 5 or 9?

yes it is. Get under the drivers side dash on your back and have a feel around. You will see the pin that goes through the clutch pedal. You need to remove this then adjust the fork accordingly. Have a fiddle. Good learning experience to get your hands dirty.

Top end? So the clutch engages just before your about to take your foot off the pedal. i.e all the way out? I run an Xtreme 9puk ceramic. It bites hard and doesn't shudder unless your really trying to ride it in peak hour. Its basically a briskish take off. Reversing 'can' shudder a touch but its not too bad once you get the hang of it. I've grown to really like the quick take up/grab of the ceramic puks. I could never go back to organic. Initially its take up/grab point was very close to the floor It has since worn quite a bit over almost 60,000km's, its take up point/grab is now ~1/2 way up the pedal. It still grabs hard but has started to slip occasionally on hard second gear shifts. My only regret was opting for the 1050kg pressure plate. Its already broke my pedal box, I was fortunate enough to grab it before it completely tore the metal and was able to simply have it rewelded. If your running a 800kg+ clutch definitely rip your pedal box and have it welded up. The poxy spot welds break easily. :S

I'd simply buy a slide high flow and run around on 10psi.

Spool all the way.

Good stuff Peter.

It was covered quite some time ago why ceramic turbo's let go. 1. Just bad luck. 2. Excessive EGT due to poor tuning/detonation/lean

Some one wouldn't have the hose size required for the resevior to pump? Its the larger one and it has quite a bad leak. I've replaced all the smaller ones that were slightly seeping.

awesome vid. Looks hairy down the straight over the bumps soon after he clicks 6th.

I hope that avtar of yours isn't copyright Troy!! lol

Ahhh so thats the secret Darren. You don't run water inj on yours do you?

I'd have a guess that the rb20 piston runs a greater pin height to allow for the shorter stroke. (given the rods and deck height are identical in measurement between the rb25 and rb20) So by simply dropping a longer stroke in to it will have the pistons poking out the top. Legend.. 100% those rods haven't been mixed up? Sorry to question. lol I may be wrong. :S

Thats the problem. It leaves for a very narrow short peaky power band. A gt35r for example. They tend to make a shade over 200rwkw at 4000rpm and spool all in by ~3500rpm then fall over by 6000rpm. The plenum really has made an unbelievable difference to the 'fun' factor of the car. As you know not being able to hold that gear out a bit longer isn't much fun when 'driving' the car.

Its interesting to note the 1jz uses the same rod length as the 2jz. 2JZ Rod - 141.98mm Stroke - 86mm 1.68 R/S 1JZ Rod - 141.98 Stroke - 71.5mm 1.98 R/S My conclusion.. Who frekin knows. Manufactures don't appear to stick by any solid rule of thumb.

I have NFI. I don't really feel mine unless its through long sweeping bends at 100km/h. Driving behind the car I could see what looked like a little 4ws at around 70km/h but that could have been the stuffed subframe bushes that have now been replaced.

Name doesn't ring a bell with regards to the one I heard of. There was a bloke on SDU that did it back in 2001/2002.

Interesting.. So the rb26/25's and 20's run exactly the same rod. So why do people bother with rb25/26 rods when doing their rb22/23/24 conversions? Why not just use the crank? The Rb20 rods are quite meaty looking things. If so.. The RB20 has a better rod/stroke ratio than the rb25 and 26. 1.64 for the RB26 and 1.69 for the RB25. That being said whats the deck height of the rb20? The same as the 25/26? If so it must run a highish pin height. A good little diagram to help those who don't know what the rod/stroke ratio means. http://article1.rboosted.com/rb20_stroker.html