Cubes

Alf, So what your saying is the head actually hangs over the edge of the block nd the water galley in the head comes damn close to the edge of the rb30 block. I've attached a pic of my unmolested block.

It sounded strange in the vid.. What exhaust is it running?

No Forget the loud exhaust. N/A's sound raspy with big open exhausts. Turbo exhaust will be fine. most importantly throw on adj. cam gears and get the ecu tuned........ as i said in my previous post. Regarding the RX7.... Can you afford to crack the motor and have the seals replaced at a later date? Few mates owned rotors during my late teens. All did seals and all spent $$ building them up. Don't forget the poor fuel consumption. If that doesn't bother you then hell grab it.. Especially if its a 13bt dropped in to a S3 RX7, nice and light. Good fun little cars.

I'd say the burnouts were pretty good.. Lots of smoke and quickly.

campbell, lmao at the idiots in their commodores comment and that smirk as you said it. Good stuff. Awesome vid, awesome car.

Hrmm a hole you say.... Ahh well live and learn. Buy injectors to suit the power level and you will be looking at and enjoying a reliable motor providing the engine builder and tuner know what they are doing. As R31Nismoid said... 550cc injectors will suit your power level.

But really why bother.. The loud exhaust note etc.. Is it really worth 130rwkw. 130rwkw is still damn slow and quite boaring. Id simply fit up an exhaust from a turbo model, do the cam gears, pod with a nice cai and partition then tuned to suit.

Out of curiosity.... Why or more importantly how did the old motor pop? You can make plenty of power on the std injectors.. ramp that fuel pressure up and thats it. Not too good for reliability though. I've known 1 rb25 to push 258rwkw on std injectors and it popped a little while after. Did its ring lands. Suprise suprise on std injectors.

The engine builder put me on to them and thats what he was able to get the rb25 two for (Bl4ck32 and I). The rb26 I remember was up near $400.

Nope. I'm running the Cometic RB25 head gasket on mine without issues (~40,000kms). The price difference between the rb25 and rb26 was considerable at the time. I got mine from memory for $150.

Porting (or as you call highflow) heads can result in poor economy..... Smooth flowing heads that have been tidied up is whats needed for a streeter, not something that has been ported out to all buggery. But I do doubt the workshop did anything more than a simple tidy up as lots of headwork costs lots and lots of $$. And no.. fuel pump won't make you use more petrol. as I said previously... I had an issue where all of a sudden fuel economy dropped to 350km's to a tank. Turned out to be the injectors. Replaced them and all was dandy again.

26 and 30 head gaskets are the same.

Time for bed I think.....................

Probably that and trying to avoid the defects in the meanwhile.

I must add Willunga hill is the only time I've seen engine temps drop. Around here its pretty flat. Slight hills but not long enough to drop engine temps. Your thermostat definitly sounds iffy siksII. Even on 4degree mornings I start the car drive it 30seconds later and no later than 1-2minutes or ~1-2km its up to operating temp (82-84degree's). As I mentioned earlier the only time I've seen the car take longer than this to warm up was when running the aftermarket el' cheapo thermostat. Its my oil pressure/temp that takes ages to drop/warm. I've timed ~8minutes of driving before oil pressure is normal.

I've seen planty of cops hooning in my day. 2 that come to mind. There used to be a bit of a reasonable dipper down Reynella that is now a small overpass for the southern expressway. 2 male young cops flying down it grins from ear to ear whooshing past me doing an easy 90km/h, hit the bottom sparks etc as they car is sucked to the ground.... And another time when I was younger. I did a bit of a wheelie in my old 4.1ltr Cortina 4speed, cops made chase pulled me over gave me a warning. As they were leaving they did a U turn and flattened it, big wheely and a bit of a snakey. The old 6cyl Commo's don't like lsd too much. Dies off pretty quick as soon as it got straight.

Hawker... Your repeating what others have said without adding anything constructive. The aftermarket cap cap with a stock radiator = bad. Your stupid comments are not welcome. Head back to ns.com if you want to be a silly head.

Without supplying what mods you have no one can even guess. i.e powerfc, highflow etc? Chances are they are standard as the car wouldn't have ran well at all on larger injectors.

You'll find the same goes for the AVCR. To get nice results without spiking, maximum boost response and holding boost in each gear you really need to set it up on the dyno. This is also why some claim the avcr is crap; because it hasn't been setup correctly. The blitz sbc-id is the next step down from the avcr, when I say next step down I mean features. It lacks an important little feature that allows the selection of different gain levels for different gears, this affects that gears boost response. I found the lower gears to feel a little sluggish up on to boost IF the controller learnt boost in a high gear. Have the controller learn boost in a lower gear and it would tend to spike in the high gears for example up a hill.

andy, ermm... whats natural boost? You mean standard boost, i.e no aftermarket boost control apart from the std actuator? and yes lowering the compression via the thick headgasket works but it does increase fuel consumption and makes the motor detonate easier. With regards to the rocker covers thing.. My R32 RB25DE (nonvct) looks identical to my RB20DET. The only way you can tell it apart is by looking at the size of the valves, combustion chamber and ports. So once its bolted on you can't tell the difference between the rb20 and rb25.

Not just that but how much earlier and more progressively it spools the turbo.

But its not spiking.. Boost is dropping 1psi. You may want to bung a nipple in to the ic pipe that attaches to the cross over pipe and block off the one used on the turbo. Similiar to how the R33's are setup. This will prevent boost drop with bleeders. No guarantees but its a step in the right direction.

Mine died, I noticed the VL ran the same plug and thread so I used that. Works fine.

yer not sure.. Maybe it was just the different designed cas or something. Not sure it was some time ago I looked at it.

Sorry I should have been a little more clear.. I meant; have you any idea's why the VL may have ran hotter underload with an aftermarket thermostat that opens greater and earlier (not to mention also has a cooler general driving temp)? As you said.. I said above the aftermarket is what made the VL run cooler under general conditions but when giving it a bootfull it would run hotter, hence my guess that the coolant may have been flowing too quick through the rad/engine etc/ The genuine thermostat brought temps up quicker, ran a tad warmer but kept the temps much more consistent and it didn't get as hot when giving it a bootfull. I have ran an aftermarket thermostat in the RB20DET but didn't like how slow it was to warm up. As with the VL it also made the motor run a tad cooler (in the 70's vs low 80's). I didn't experience any hotter running conditions though, all it did was run cooler across the board.