Cubes

I'm not 100% sure as I haven't measured it all up yet. Waiting on a clutch from Kudos Motorsport. Exedy GTR pressure plate & 3puk. Best price around for Exedy clutches. I have been 'told' that you don't have to shorten the tail shaft. When sliding my yoke in to the 25t box there's still quite a bit of room left for the tail shaft to move inwards. Thats going by the seal marks on the yoke and the alignment with the dust shield; I'm assuming it doesn't 'have' to be done when using a 2 piece as there's little if any in/out movement. None the less I would like it to look all tidy underneath and have the yoke section lining up with the dust shield so I will most likely shorten it to what ever. Its probably easier to snip 20mm off or so and start welding on a fresh piece of metal than attempt to weld over crap. Mine was a factory manual, I doubt it will simply bolt up but I think it will get very very close. With a new stock gearbox mount mine also moves around quite a bit so that will definitely be on the cards. I think the problem comes from with my engine mounts; standard Nissan mounts appear quite soft; I've already broke one (torque side) ~1,5years after I fitted it. I'll get the box in and look at it later; I need to let my pocket recuperate a little first.

Design/Collector. I think so.. There was a thread floating around where some one had flow test results of a highmount manifold, hks low mount, china and std exhaust manifold. The std exhaust manifold flowed quite well compared to the others. In flow... The real increase in power is a result of equal levels of reversion as a result increased ignition and more optimal afr's. Also not to forget improved overall cylinder filling. A little like the old buffalo theory. The motor can only run as much ignition as the cylinder that has the worse VE can. Poor VE = increased levels of det due to the old charge contaminating the new. Unfortunately this is something that flow tests can't really simulate when everything is under pressure with high velocity exhaust gas.

Bass, I agree depending on the setup the restriction is within the turbine a/r and wheel combo; however a manifold that flows more equally results in improved even reversion across all 6 pots. With equal reversion each cylinder receives improved fuel and ignition requirements which results in increased power, spool, response etc. If it pans out true in practice who knows? :S Maybe the extrude honed std exh manifold will show improved results with a setup thats pushing around the known brick wall limit of 300-320rwkw of the std exhaust manifold. For example there was a bloke here running with the std exhaust manifold pushing near 300rwkw; dropped one of those cheap china crap things on it and it picked up almost 20rwkw. Took it out to Mallala and blew a hole in it. He was running a .63 IW Gt3040. Made 313rwkw with a little over 20psi, 256 poncams, thicker headgasket, std bottom end; ran like that for a few years (daily) before he stocked it out and sold the car for a Territory Turbo. Bit off topic lol.

The pedal shouldn't feel softer when going from the R32 GTST to R33 GTST brakes. It should feel better. The R32 GTST and R33 GTST callipers are identical in piston dia; so the same amount of fluid is displaced. The difference is in their mounting position. The R33's are spaced away from the hub more so to allow the use of a larger dia rotor. The larger dia rotor with the same calliper offers increased leverage when stopping the car; so less brake pedal effort/travel is required to slow the car. If the pedal feels softer its possible the callipers require an overhaul or you disturbed the master cylinder during bleeding.

If the arm length is different then you bought or were supplied the incorrect one. The correct one is identical; works exactly the same. BUT I've had mine shag out a few times. Buy genuine because they last longer not because the arm length is different.

Skit 31. What cams are you running? Duration/Lift? Got any audio/vids of how it lopes over? Very keen to have a listen.

I think the important thing to remember is once the car is moving the lightened flywheel is a good thing. Getting the car moving is the more challenging part with a lightened flywheel; especially if it doesn't have enough torque to break traction to start with. Which depends very much so on your setup; diff condition, tyre size and tyre type (semi's etc). If you have the torque to break traction then I'd recommend a lightened flywheel; if not it may make the car a bit of a pig to drive. If its 4wd.. Again the same thing; 4wd's can and do break traction when launching quite easily; if you run a big turbo with sticky tyres its easier to bog off the line so you may end up going backwards and not screaming off the line like it used too.

Pull them out and have a look. In the past I've found the BKR7E to be fine; they would only foul 'slightly' if I left the car idling to warm up. Simple drive the car soft; no need to idle for minutes upon minutes. I know Shaun likes his 6's but I've found 200rwkw and over they tend to come out looking a little hot. Drop 7's in and they look just right.

The inertia of the flywheel has absolutely nothing to do with keeping the car on boost when flicking through the gears. When you click the next gear, release the clutch and open the throttle back up the road vs engine rpm is fixed. The only affect it will have is that a heavy flywheel will be harder on syncro's and your driveline. It wil chirp gears easier. Once you start accelerating the motor has to overcome the flywheels inertia; this is where lightened flywheels have their advantage. Which is why track cars run lightened flywheels; to increase response due to less inertia. Exactly the same reason why the GTR runs 2 smaller turbo's instead of 1 large turbo. To reduce inertia as a result increase response when rolling out of those corners. Obviously there is the extreme; if you go too light its not a good thing. Possibly what the suby experienced due to its high grip levels. Drag subaru. Drag = large amounts of grip. Huge amounts of grip requires a lot of torque to get off the line without bogging down; possibly this is what you meant by falling off boost? For a street RB; you can't go wrong with a nice 5kg lightened flywheel. Throw a set of slicks on it with a big turbo and you may find it bogs a tad on the launch. Which hurts 1/4 times.

I've heard quite a few stuffed turbo's.. They don't rattle. Bamr33... I'll raise $10.

Rear bar from 'memory' was fine. Steve?

You blokes come across any second hand semi's?

Opps.. Sorry bud I read it as BKR7ES. That will learn me for skim reading. :S

Proven by who? Its impossible to stay on boost while you change gears. I've ran with the std heavy and a lightened and the lightened wins hands down. The differences I have noticed was the car required a few more rev's to get off the line without bogging down. Getting out of the hole was easier and wheel spin was easier to control. Gear changes felt easier and quicker at WOT with big decrease in missed gears; the box had iffy syncro's. The car felt noticeably more brisk in first and second gear; it felt as if it had more torque and would accelerate quicker. Response improved. Technically for a typical turbo'd car which rev's high and has a low diff ratio (numerically higher) the motor accelerates/revs faster to provide the same road speed acceleration as a larger n/a v8 for example. The lighter flywheel allows the motor to accelerate faster due to a decrease in inertia; as a result this WILL translate in to improved road speed acceleration. Especially in the lower gears. A lightened flywheel does next to nothing for the higher 4th gears etc as the motor rev's out considerably slower; as a result the resistance to acceleration or deceleration (inertia) has little effect. Hope that made sense.

lol.. At least the northern burbs are bad asses; the southern burbs are just plain bums. lol.

No difference to worry about. One plug is a bee's dick taller than the other; makes no difference as the conducting spring inside the coil takes up the slack.

Digging up a thread. I picked up a S2 R33 Rb25DET gearbox recently. The tailshaft. I've been told all I have to do is remove the rb20det yoke and have the rb25det yoke welded in; no shortening etc is required. Adelaide tailshaft - $160 to remove and weld in the new yoke with balancing. I compared my R32 gearbox mount and crossmember to the R33 S2 Rb25DEt gearbox mount and cross member. The crossmembers are Identical and essentially the mounts are also. The R32 gearbox mount has its metal trimmed up where as the r33 mount is simply a piece of metal with its sides bent up. For those who have done the rb25det gearbox in to the R32 how far out does the rb25det gearbox position the mount compared to the std gearbox? 20mm? Pics attached of the 2 crossmembers and gearbox mounts. All measurements and heights are the same. I haven't bolted the box up yet as I'm waiting for a clutch, Fingers crossed the mount bolt up position is only out by 20mm or so as then I can redrill the gearbox mount holes on the gearbox and use the std crossmember and my near new mount without too much trouble. I doubt I will be so lucky as no doubt others would have looked at this and would have let others on SAU know.

Makes one wonder if the car was stolen.

You can reuse the inlet manifold gasket as its metal but will most likely require a plenum to inlet manifold gasket as they are paper and rip. Luckily the gasket is cheap ~$10 AUD.

Thats what I've ran in the past. Worked extremely well as it quietened down the input shaft bearing noise in my original box some how; didn't stop it from ripping teeth off third gear though. Only my right foot could do that.

That is technically impossible. First and second will ALWAYS make boost later than the higher slower reving 3rd and 4th gears. Especially with a turbo of such size on the 2ltr; unless you hold your foot on the brake. Regardless I was talking about where it kicks you in the arse; i.e picks up/clears its throat/feels lively/free and screams off. At 4500rpm its only making ~105rwkw; 5000rpm ~140rwkw and then 5500rpm ~190; the biggest jump in power is from 5000rpm to 5500rpm which suggests a little before 5500rpm is where it picks up and goes. If it is making all its boost at 4500rpm its not doing a lot with it.

Thats correct but unfortunately with the skylines the ecu most definitely does get damaged. In the process it also blows the 75amp fuse as well as one of the fuses under the dash. I forget which one. Luckly the ecu blows the main resistor and protects the bits within. Also note that the thread op could smell an elec burning smell so it has obviously been toasted. :S

http://www.petroject.com.au/contact.html Should be able to help you out.

The 3540 for under 300rwkw is a massive overkill. Not only do you sacrifice spool but you sacrifice response which greatly affects low gear acceleration. When does it kick you in the arse? 5500rpm? Does it kick you in the arse in the lower gears (1st and 2nd) if rolling on the throttle or does it take until 3rd gear to really get up and go?

Would be good to see if there's any real world results from power porting the std manifold. If it were pick up 20rwkw (as those cheap china manifolds do once up near 300rwkw) I'd do it. You will most likely have to send the manifold off to UAS. Do it.. Then share the results with us all.