gotRICE?

Id go for a Link G4 plug in. Brilliant bit of ECU.

VCT is useles.. I love whoring this picture.

SAU is great for making people overly paranoid over things like this haha.

I didnt realize that 1st picture was of the wing, its not totally clear to me, might have been a better picture if it was from the front. But anyway, im guessing that seeing as you have an OEM light replacement thing, then there must have been some model of R33 without the hi-stop light. I agree with above, call nissan and quote the number. Id almost put money on the part number for the S2 hi-stop light being the same.

ok, so im a little confused with your question then. Your asking if its expensive for a light for a GTR wing from nissan, yet you have one right there? Does your wing have a cutout for a light or not? Thats mine.

Ah! Good to know. In that case i might up my setting 10-20'C too. I just had another thought, i dont know why it popped into my head, but is the NEO VCT infinitely adjustable? Kind of like the IVTEC in K20a Hondas? Like with the R33, its just on and off. No other variables. But for some reason im thinking the NEO VCT is also load sensitive too? Or have i got it mixed up with something else?

I know it doesnt look the prettiest, but DONT cut 'n' shut the stock plenum. Its not an awesome idea, and looks horrible. Plus the design of the runners is for the TB to be in the center. Putting it at the front completely f**ks up the flow of the thing. The stock plenum will be good for over 300rwkw. And i just saw a post of a dude putting a Plazmaman plenum on his and losing power and torque across the entire rev range.

Its possible to do yourself if your confident in your mechanical skillzzz.. the difficult part is pulling of the harmonic balancer gruuuh! It is FAR easier on a hoist too. I did my "100,000K service" in mine at 70,000, because i had a really noisy tensioner. It took my 6 hours to do mainly because i couldnt get the crank pulley off, and then couldnt get the CAS back on LOL.

Agree with that. The only difference is the R32 GTSt and GTS4 has a 4.1 diff. R32 GTR's with GTS4 diffs look heinously quick around a mid speed track

Does it rattle at idle? A friend of mines R32 rattled a bit at idle. His was making 393AWKW, he liked to launch and it started making noises after a while. I hear its relatively common for the transfer case to get a bit upset. Ill get in touch with him and ask what he did and whether it can be done in the car.

Hmm. It is an interesting situation! If the car still runs relatively well, and only appears to bellow smoke on boost then i would guess that #5 has just blown the rings. Just seals on normal driving, but anything more than atmo pressure and its fubar. Looks like you and the mad scientist gotta rip apart the block, and replace the piston rings you just fried. While its out, replace the rocker cover gaskets and the half moon seals. 25s tend to leak from the rear, and you cant see it. I know mine does. I get a bit of oil moisture forming on the bellhousing lol.

Yeah i say try fix it, it is definitely noticeable once you get it back. Might as well whore a picture for you, this was a recent tune on my R33. We were trying to find the best place to have it switch off, tuned it all the way with it on, then all the way off to see where the curves intersect. Run out of fuelpump hence why they dont meet in this curve As you can see there is a substantial difference! But, once the fuel was sorted, in my case it seemed to make the most difference in torque and power switching off at 4900rpm. The other thing we changed was, we set it so it wont turn on untill the ECT is above 50'C. Cos when the car was idling it would click on and off and f**k with the AFR's and ignition. Im unsure if the stock ECU does a temperature activation too? Im guessing it might seeing as its oil operated?

Are those pictures of a GTR brakelight? I would assume that the S2 GTS brakelight is similar. I will check for you tonight. My R33 has a GTR wing on it, and my mates has the normal S2 wing. Id say it would be pretty clear if they are the same. And, i dont believe any GTR wings did not come with a brakelight. Id say if it didnt have one it could possibly be a replica? Does it have the cutout for it?

Is there any reason you cut the wires? If the morotech doesnt use it, then having it plugged in isnt going to hurt anything? My Link G4 doesnt use the narrowband either, it was still plugged in. Just the Input on the ECU end was cut, and re-used for something else.

The JJR dump pipes come with a hole for the 02 sensor too.. I think the newer ones they have resolved the issue of the flapper. Dont quote me though i just havnt seen a thread for a long time with any complaints. My one fouled, i had it fixed. But then discovered that where the split pipe met the rest of the exhaust, the hole was too small for the gasses and was still causing problems. = Bin. Either way, you have problems JJR will hook you up

Have you ever dried it before? I did with my alarm system in the 33 when i locked my keys in the car. Called up home (35-40 mins away) and got them to do this exact thing. Note that both batteries were fresh, as i had changed both within the week. All i got was a buzzing through the phone. Didnt unlock. So i gues it depends on how the remotes work. Scenario 2.. BS. I have found the Arcing your arm to your neck does seem to work however. It also works for a distance thing. Like if think youve forgotten to lock the car and have already walked away.

Any pics of it installed? Was looking at a Camgear/coil cover combo in carbon for mine.

Thermostats dont just open to keep the car cool. They also Close to keep the temps up. So yeah your correct there. A cooler climate will just mean the thermo will stay shut longer to get the car up to operating temp quicker. Running a Nismo thermo in a street car IMO is madness. 62'C is far to cold! I guess if you re-tuned all of the warmup fuel maps to suit it would be ok, but on a stock ECU wouldnt it be running a tad on the rich side, as it never reaches the stock temp where the car will run most efficient? Iv just had to do this in my R33 with my new ECU, need to adjust each temperature zone. So i figure the stock ECU will have a similar thing going on there?

The airbox snorkle will just suck air from wherever it can find it I think this will restrict some of the cooler air but i doubt it will have any effect. BTW, looks fantastic! Quite keen to give it a crack on mine now

i just threw up in my mouth a little bit. It looks like an Alpha was making out with a Version10 STi and got but fu(ked by a Legend.

It will be fine. Do it.

Theres what the pump looks like with the belt still on. Im gonna go ahead and agree that it cant be done. No way without taking the covers off anyway. You'd be mad to be in there and not do a full timing belt kit.

I wonder why it blew. Some of those 15 year + fuses are funny. I put a USB adaptor into my ciggy lighter, put an ipod into it and it popped. Replaced it, and it hasnt done it since. Would it be safe to assume the fuses get a bit brittle over time?

Im gonna be the 1st to say your wrong. The stock Thermostat STARTs to open at 75 or whatever it is, but isnt completely open untill aroundabout the 85 mark. Regardless of the situation, my R33 will sit at 84"C, whether its 10'C outside or 28'C. Giving it a bootfull up a long hll i have seen it into the 90s, but it drops very quickly. And a full day on the dyno where the room was reaching 38'C, the temp never went over 87'C. So according to you, my pump and thermo arent operating correctly. Even though they are both OEM and both brand new. I have also seen the odd post here and there saying the N1 pump for a street car isnt overly ideal because it flows to slowly. I also just realized your talking about GTR's. But as far as im aware they run the same thermo and pump as a GTSt. So essentially will operate the same?