gotRICE?

Lithium runs one of the 255L/H walbro's in his R33 making 300rwkw with no wiring modification, for the 14v that is. No problems. Same with mine, i just dropped it in. Wired the two wires and away i went. No problems with low fuel or anything. I dunno why people go on and on about them being noisey. Sure you can hear it when it primes, but you can hear the stock one too. Other than that it might as well not be there. Cant hear a thing. If you after a easy cheap pump that will do the job, the Walbro is the way to go. The bosch sounds like (from what i read here) its a huge hassle to make it fit. Cutting bits off here and there, and cable tied to the bracket. lol. The walbro just fits. You only need to wire it. Two wires. SOOO hard.

It it electronic or mechanical? My Apexi EL2 (Electronic) the lip around the gauge is silver, rather than black like the youtube video posted. Duno if that helps, and i didnt realize they came black if they do or id have got one!

I would do this. Cut the vents from a GTS25t and adapt them into the GTR guard. That way it lets the heat escape, and the spinning of the wheel pulls air through also. I actually think. ARC or someone sold one. lol. An alloy version.

Yeah. Its ON from 1100rpm or so stock till 5000rpm/ish. We were basically tuning it to find the best pont for it to switch off. But seeing as the pump died we never got to see when the power and torque falls off, as you can see it doesnt look like its stopping anytime soon! I didnt realize your car was that powerful. If you think it drives fine then dont bother going back if its going to cost alot of money! I just saw it as someone bought gears cos they were pretty and thought theyd help haha.

Indeed. Heres a good example of my R33. Car was tuned to 5000rpm, this is because any further and the dutys were @ 100%, fuelpump dying . First, with VCT OFF. then again with VCT ON. Pretty black and white. Seat of the pants is pretty clear too. If i was you, i wouldnt worry about pretty cam gears and clear covers. Sell them and spend it on something more worthwhile!

With the standard sock arrangement, are you sure its pointing the right way? I tried to use the stock sock on my walbro to avoid this problem, but when sliding the pump home, the length and angle of the stock sock was stopping the pump sliding right to the bottom of the slot. By feel, it felt like it was home, but if you pushed it a bit you could feel resistance of the sock holding it up slightly. The sock needs to (looking into the inspection hole) point slightly to the right (drivers side) and down @ 45'. As you said because of the shape it makes it difficult. I gave up in the end and used the dinky little walbro sock. Sat down properly low, and havnt had an issue yet. Well down past the 1/4 mark today. I was worried however haha. EDIT, Also as above paulr33 said, triple check it is correctly sitting in the slot. You can get it 90% of the way down if you only manage to catch one of the slots. And it feels solid enough. I got caught a couple of times thinking it was fine but when you look into it you can see that it was only slotted in one side. Moved it over properly and it dropped down another 2 inches easily.

This doesnt answer your question, but is there a particular reason you removed the VCT?

No problem. yeah its a hell of a tight fit. So if i was you save yourself the swearing and move as much stuff as possible. Now i think of it, the hole you have to go through to get to them, is a circle, and the rubber/plastic cover is circle too with an "X" cut into it. All from memory mind you. Mine have lasted 3 years since last changing them.. Touch Wood.

There is a little rubber flap kinda thing you have to jam your fingers through. Its hell tight. Makes it easier if you remove the fuse boxes etc that are in their way. But no, you dont need to remove the headlights. They are a twist fit. from memory about a 1/3 turn anti-clockwise and they will unclip. They can be tight, so if you manage to make room, use some pliers. lol.

If someone installs a fuelpump with the battery connected and ignition on you deserve to blow up and burn.. but make sure a camera is recording for lulz Its not a big deal. The walbro's come with a crimp. I thought that was unsafe but decided if it was, it wouldnt be floating in the fueltank.

The RIPS ones are custom built to order AFAIK. So it all depends on what you want. From what i gather, something like mine, witch is a washer bottle and catch can with fittings and lines will set you back anywhere up to and beyond $600NZD. Sorry the pics not a closeup, its all i have of mine.. haha

You dont HAVE to. All it does is seperate the oily mist from the air. Stock setup it gets drawn out of the head into the intake pipes under boost, and inder Vac it is drawn out via the PCV too. It could possibly lower your octane rating slightly if you have alot of it. And it can also coat your turbine wheels and intercooler + pipes in an oily film over time. Its up to you.

I know its not ideal, but have a go without a thermostat and see if it does the same thing. Iv had a couple of Thermostats fail on my cars, luckily for me they were stuck open, but not enough for it to take a long time to warm up. The temp would plummit (even on the stock gauge) if i coasted down a hill at night. lol. But then i also had a brand new OEM Toyota Thermostat not open till 100'C in my freshly rebuilt Hiace engine! Replaced with a Trident and never had an issue. So ehh..

I agree with the cardboard box! Go to a panelbeater and ask them if they have a bumper box lying around. I had a huge Ford box for a year or so before it was too stained to go on. Fold them out and they will nearly cover the entire floor under the engine

Mine R33 came from Japan with a center belt.

I didnt realize the elongated hole was an N1 thing. Mine clearly has the "N1" elongated hole. It isnt genuine Nissan or anything either. Random. Oh and as to your question.. listen to these guys. I attacked the lot when i did mine. Cambelt and everything. Didnt really know what i was doing but had a crack and seemed to turn out ok Only took me 6 hours

Yeah that sounds like the waterpump to me. It looks like this underneath: Thats mine when i did mine.( The long shiny bit right in the middle ) The 4 little studs is where the fan bolts to. You do need to seal it with a sealant, maybe they missed a little bit, or didnt tighten the bolts up properly. If it was done at a shop, then its on them. So take it back.

You can always just tap your own one in. It wont cost bugger all

You should never ever have to teflon tape oil cooler fittings. If the fittings were good enough quality you dont need them. Ask any decent fitting company, Earls, Aeroquip, Mocal.. if you ask the question they yell back at you.. NO! Keep that AWAY from oil systems. lol.

If you already have a FMIC installed i wouldnt bother changing. At least with the "over the radiator" style pipe route you have a good hole for directing cold air to your air filter. I have a Blitz LM Intercooler, that uses both holes on the passenger side, and the pipes are still hot too. So i wouldnt worry too much. The engine bays get VERY hot when you are stationary with the bonnet closed too. Your mechanic sell Intercoolers by chance?

I had issues with my PCV being blocked causing the engine to smoke when taking off. Put it back to factory PCV, with vented breathers and haven't had the smokey problem since.

Expect to pay massive money for them. Each can is custom made to your requirements. They are absolutely beautifully made, and do their job perfectly. But unless your willing to spend $600+ +shipping, look elsewhere. I have one, love it to bits. Picked it up second hand. Wouldnt buy one new though. Far too expensive for the next to nothing they actually do. Haha. And as to the dodgy mounting.. thats up to the installer isnt it?

This thread is hilarious. I seriously think some people are far too precious with their cars. I mean seriously.. thinking highway driving would cause excessive wear on an engine? This forum Delivers

Im doing the same thing this month. I bought myself back an oil cooler kit, (Mocal, pieced together myself) and am going to be getting 2x EDFC's. A bagful of those HKS inline VAC filters etc. I even got roped into bringing back a massive Twin scroll Manifold for my mates Evo hillclimb car ha. Agree with above though. Not alot of demand for Skyline stuff so your limited. Am thinking of putting an order through for a heap of smaller Password JDM stuff for all the Honda fanboys. Make myself a tidy profit

This is true Be nice to see a list of the options for those! Front bars, Skirts, rear caps, GTR wing, sunroof... what else?