gotRICE?

Is there any reason why you want a switch? Its pointless. Just earth the wire, and use your foot to control the boost

People complain because they are slow. Cant say iv had many issues. I quite like RHDJapan. They arent half bad.

Its more than likely because auto boxes are torque monkeys, and the stock GTSt turbo makes a million psi at 5rpm... (just incase.. that was a huge piece of sarcasm) the GTR just takes a little longer to come on song. Plus, its a tad heavier, and lacks the VCT that beefs up the RB25's low end torque.

Agreed ^^ Funny today i was talking to a builder friend. He was complaining that hes lost $100K on his Bently in only 4 years. I reminded him that 30% over 4 years isnt actually that bad, and your only loosing the $100K if your selling it.. and he is not. You could buy a new Camry/Maxima or whatever and loose that driving around the block. Its just that his 30% is a f**kload more than all of us! He never thought of it like that.

I dont think you want it jacked up if you want bubbles to come out the bleed valve. Im pretty sure you want the car level for it to work properly.

Highflows are great. Stock location, no exhaust modding. Come with everything you need to bolt it on. Plus, all you aussies love it when it still looks factory cos your laws are a bit on the average side. Were heading that way at a guess too. So thats a big bonus in that respect. I dont know what they go for new these days, but i dare say they would be cheaper than the Garret/HKS equivalents?

You dont want it spraying at WOT. The core needs to be wet/cool before you come onto boost. Thats why the Evo/WRX sprayers on "Auto" mode spray when you brake.

Id agree with that. You dont really need one haha. I only keep mine in cos it was there when i bought it. Its amazing how many bone stock turbo cars have them. I think the Japanese got more sucked into the turbo timer thing than everyone else! But then, i do use mine at track days. Other than that it pretty much only ever counts down from 10, as i drive sedately until i park up, and by then it thinks it only needs 10 seconds.

Then tell him to wire it so it will work

^^ Me three, but mine does it random. Usually when cold and while its coming up to operating temp, once its been up to temp for a while its ok. So must be oil related. I use Royal Purple, so cant be bad?

does it only do it when the cars cold? or constantly?

I would have thought at their peak they would have liked them, as for a while nearly every single R33 that appeared at the docks had an HKS pod and some sort of aftermarket exhaust on them. Just like those AE101 Levins, it was hard to find one that didnt have the TRD or somethig similar bumper on them.

The bolt under 5th and 6th exhaust ports I never found it either.. but its there. I just dont think its easy to get to.

Oh yep. Is your PCV blocked too? I re-instated my PCV, and live with the occasional idle hunt because of the un-afm'd air getting in Mine didnt get alot of oil either, it was more like oil condensation sticking to the walls of the catch can haha. That, and the breather filter went black.. so theres a bit getting through i guess.

Yeah im confused too.. lol. How is yours setup PM-R33? Why does an atmo venting cause issues over a non atmo? And what are the headaches other than issues i came across? RIPS also said that it was the 1st they had heard of with mine. So i dunno...

Yep block it off. It will vent through the catch can. The only issue i had when i did this, mine was an atmo venting mind you, was that after a while the car started blowing smoke at low rpm. Taking off from lights.. coming to a stop. I emailed a few SAU people, and Rob from RIPS,seemed as if there wasnt enough breathing with the PCV blocked. Put it back to normal and the smoking stopped instantly and hasnt come back Possibly with the intake sucking away at it it may have been ok. Something to consider. I dont know if anyone else has had the issues. Mine Dont let the Stock plumb back line fool you Its blocked with a bung, but stealthly for stock looking piping. Haha

Awesome! i always wondered what it looked like in there Cheers!

wow the recirc tube is lol! Keen for more pics of how the bov's are set up Thread steal..

If you got it for next to nothing with the ducting its def worth while doing it if you dont have bigger turbo plans in the near future. I did it in mine, but there just isnt sufficient airflow (or not on my particular OEM bar) and even cruising, the thing would get savagely heat soaked. It doesnt take long on spirited runs either for it to be red hot. Seems to have worked well for you though! On a side note, those vents you cut out, they actually are shaped to draw air through the core as the wheel spins, it sortof "sucks" air through So dont cut too many out haha.

I wish id read your description of the Chinese audio before i wasted my time downloading that

Did you buy that from NZ? It looks spectacularly like Nizmo_freeks S3 EDIT: Never mind.. some slight differences.. but close!

I got it 2nd hand, but brand new you wont get any change out of $600+NZD. Id never buy one brand new personally. I think you could get the same effect from a local metalworks place far cheaper. Just draw it with dimensions and away you go.

Agreed. Anyone should be able to do it. The quality of the RIPS ones are next to none. But yeah, you really pay for it. Any design, shape and baffling etc you want. Mine: Just not the overflow bottle..

leave the stock one bolted up, but block it with a piece of alloy, weld the new bov flange onto the piping inside the front bar somewhere. But they will still hear it got psssstttt chuchuchuchu