gotRICE?

I figured. Could be the reason then. I know with my Greddy, i got it brand new, and it only flutters at very low boost and vac. But if i rev it a bit higher, even if still only 2-3psi it opens at per normal. No problems at all at full boost. I dont mind the flutter. Like you said, sounds trippy haha. And seeing as its only doing it at very low boost im not worried about this "surge" people go on about. I always thought surge was when the compressor actually stalls under full boost. If it was surging you'd be seeing it on the boost gauge anywho wouldnt you?

If its "New" it shouldnt need oiling. It could be the fact that the spring is alot harder than stock even on soft, so with low boost its just a bit slower to react. My Greddy Type RS does it too.

^ This. Good advice. Soak that bastard with CRC or whatever too. You'd possibly need a mate to help you, as holding the dump pipe down and getting the appropriate leverage to crack the sensor is next to impossible without lifting yourself off the ground haha. Shocking it is key, brute force didnt seem to work well for me. And just something else, id also recommend putting high strength high temp lok tite on the thread rather than doing it up really tight. In my experience with the JJR stainless dumps, the stainless steel seems to enjoy holding onto the sensor for all its worth and stripping it out if you ever need to remove it for some reason.

Ahhhh i see! Makes sense now, it just looked like it had a block in it with that grey circle If the intake pipe was there, then i would have understood! And i would have called it differently, as people generally relate "PCV" to the line between the intake cam cover and the IM that actually has the valve in it. The turbo breather hose just has a little brass restrictor Makes complete sense now! Im thinking of modding my setup due to other issues i encountered, like below. (3rd line closest to radiator is "MS Paint'ed" on.) Deleted breather filter, and PCV as per factory.

Agree. Some of the Autometer/gauge (can never remember the difference) arent too bad. I had a couple of smoke screen dials in my ITR. The needle fell off one of them launching on the drag strip :s And pulling it apart to put it back on completely f**ked the shape of the housing. So had to buy a new one Could have bought one decent gauge for the cost of two asshat ones. haha

What you do to get around this, is move that stud to a different location. You need to have the bolt in the hole on the dump pipe as you fit it, and do it up as you slowly push the flanges home. Dont just stick it on and then try get the bolts in It takes time. But you will feel rewarded for it at the end haha I managed on mine, so everyone else should be able to too And, x2 on the smoke. It goes away pretty fast. Just take it for a good beat and it will burn off all the coatings and start changing colour.

x2!! Im in love with mine. Cept these days they cost a left nut and right arm. Not to mention you need the control box. Been waiting for some sort of discount so i can finally get some oil temp/pressure gauges.

Theres prolly a better place to tap it into than the FPR. the last thing you want is something going wrong, and the FPR loosing its vac feed. The shorter the line the better too. Having a long vac hose to the actuator can slow the opening and cause creep.

To me it looks like the 2nd pic that you have actually completely sealed off the cam covers from breathing at all. Without the PCV or the breather to the intake pipe wouldnt the crank case pressure get rather high? As it has nowhere to go.

Id say that both going at the same time is like a 1000/1 chance. It happened to me the other week too. Switched them on, saw them go on (in the garage) drove for 20min, and when i arrived and pulled into a carpark they were both out :s Was just the bulbs. So wierd.

Just connect it to the standard location. Actually im assuming here that you have one of the 'over the radiator' intercoolers so the stock locations gone right? I guess it depends what turbo your running. Alot of guys i know like to hook theirs directly to the compressor housing. But for stock turbo, dunno. Stock location works fine for most people, so maybe in a similar place?

The revs dropping and/or stalling is due to the PCV and exh cam cover -> turbo inlet breather correct? And the fact they are drawing in a small amount of un-metered air? Assuming that the car still has the factory AFM setup that is.

Me too. BUT it does make alot of sence, as even running stock actuator and solenoid, most R33's seem to make around 9-11psi with full exhaust etc. I only changed to an R32 Actuator because i got one cheap. And i wanted the 10psi immediately

Id agree ^^ Any time my R33 has done something unexpected in the rain, all i ever do is lift off the throttle gently and it pretty much stops doing what it was doing. Gives you a fright, yeah. But next time you'd know

I think i did one a few pages back

5psi.. or why would it need the solenoid?

Yeah i hear ya, but what i mean is, alot of the Nismo equipment is offered on a new purchase.. so essentially its a"factory"option. Note the quotations. And i dont believe there is a bolt on replacement for the factory oil warmer/cooler.

It could be a "factory" nismo oil cooler? Dont they put them in the passenger guard?

I didnt realise the stock turbos had a nipple? What kind of dump pipe do you have? If its a splt dump, it could be the issue. I had alot of problems with boost creep on my R33 with the split design. Even after having it ground down and fixed with the old wategate flapper issue. I put the stock one back on and it went away immediately. Ended up having a custom bellmouth style made up instead and its still fine.

I think its relatively normal on the stock ECU with the mods you have. This is mine: Before, and after an SAFC2 tune. Managed to improve the dip as you can see. But its impossible to eliminate without timing adjustments! And, just so all you "veteran" SAU posters dont get excited, hub dyno, different country.. so dont fret about the "happy numbers" The peak isnt what i was looking at in this instance. More the gain and improvements.

The flat spot wont be coil related. If its happening on a cold night, then id put money on it being RnR. As the cool air is more dense, so your maxxing out your AFM. Mine does it too when its cold out. SO dont go spending big $$ on coilpacks just yet! A tune of sorts will sort that out.. largely being a full ECU, or marginally a piggyback. I managed to get rid of most of mine with an SAFC, but the stock ECU pulls alot of timing in the upper rpm anyway as i have seen.

Remind me not to move to Australia

Relax buddy. Its called constructive criticism. And it is help, its someone telling them that theres no point running a "Hi/Lo" boost switch with the small amount of boost the car actually makes. But hey, if what he is after is an in cabin switch so all his mates can see hes got a "high" boost button.. then thats top notch too! If your worried about the extra oomph in the lower rpm in the rain then why the hell would you be tearing around with enough throttle to make enough boost to spin the wheels? You'l spend all this time running the switch, and i can guarantee that 99% of the time it will be left on high boost anyway..

Again... If its wet, then you wont generally be using full throttle too much would you? So you wont be making full boost anyway.

Good call Vin! hahaha