GTRPSI

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what are the spring rates? These more a street coil over or a track coil over?

We have not opened it as the person we bought the motor off lock tighted the back screws on due to them commonly coming lose and then causing low oil pressure.

I have a tomei oil pump for sale that has come off a unfinished project motor. Looks to be in good condition as there is no real markings where the crank collar sits into. I'm unsure if it has been used or not. All inspections welcome. Reason for sale; going dry sump Chasing $1200 Contact me on 0422216160

New MLS head gaskets are installed dry. When reusing one, spray Hylomar on the top and bottom.

If you try to fit a larger Tomie oil pump you will need to mod the block by grinding where it hits, being a larger pump with a larger backing plate it hits in one area that needs to be removed. I used the RB26 windage trays, its simple enough to drill and tap the holes in the right place. I also used a crank scraper. Made my own Tomie style baffel plate for the sump and used a gated 9lt sump extension.

open to offers.

Sounds like the crap was not cleaned out of the oil lines and got to the bearings......

Center plate can be drilled and helicoiled if the threads damaged. Just buy a new pivot stud, and load the ball with grease when reassembling.

Would be a similar situation as with Honda S2000 bores, once worn people turn to liners, not many workshops in Aus can bore the factory cylinders and finsh them (polished) correctly as the OEM finish. Even so with all the mucking around to fit liners, S2000 owners dont flinch to go liners and bore as needed once the factory bores are toast.

I thought a built RE4 shits itself around 400Kw+ from memory. (last looked into it 2 years ago) 2 speed glide, or 3 speed t400, really depends on your power band and slip, 2 speed or 3 speed to get you down the track quicker, 2 speed will rob a lot of power and turn it into heat.

Only way to identify the crank is to remove the oil pump and see the oil pump drive area (or collar if fitted) Im surpised the owner does not have photos of the parts used.....to back up the receipts.....still not a guarantee though.

Starters not thowing out to engage the flywheel. (starter spins but does not connect to the flywheel to crank) Remove the starter and take it back.

Also check to see that the pistons not rusting, pointless putting new seals on a damaged piston, its very common to see rusted up pistons and the main cause of leaking seals.

Ah the Brembo pads on ebay im guessing? I use to sell them, got them directly from the Aussie Brembo agents as im a wholesaler, they are a cheap Semi metalic Asian Brembo line, rated to 650 but not made in Italy. (boxes cleverly do not state country of origin) I had a few threats of court action from customers about them...they are that good if you get me. Brembo by name only, not Brembo by nature.

Well both slave cylinders on push and pull setups push the clutch fork lever, its the lever that actually pushes or pulls the throwout/release bearing, the slave does not actually pull the lever. Best way to tell is if the slave cylinder is bolted to the front of the car compared to the lever its a push type, if the slave cylinder is bolted towards the rear of the car compared to the lever its a pull type. This can be reversed is its had a push to pull conversion so be careful if someones fitted a conversion kit to it.

pms replied.

There are a few people running at the Snowy Mountains 1000 in NSW which is very high altitude, first time they went there the cars ran crap, second time they brought their tuners with them and problems were sorted by pulling fuel out. Not something most would be thinking about until they went through it......

Do you have a dyno graph or 38psi 2nismo? I saw a dyno result of a 6870 on a 2.6 today with cams, low 30ish boost, make mid 500'sKw, was as laggy as hell, not very impressed, looked like a slug to drive on the street, nothing then all. Seen a few like this so far on 2.6's, seems like the 6870 is more towards the extra 15% capacity that a 3.0L or stroker delivers. Looks like 2.6's run a larger area under the curve on the 6466....

i have a brand new front lip in fiberglass and a carbon boot lip if interested. txt me on 0422216160

If no fluids leaking, check the thickness of your pads, could just be wear.

If your issue is in the heads to piston crown shape (we have not established that yet), you could remove the quench pads however that would drop your compression further. (like your typical drag head builds) If it is from the chamber, my guess is the piston crown shape, to have a recess leaves a large area for combustion, those sharp valve reliefs arnt helping. However before you go that far into things, have you checked your knock sensors and how they are mounted? Did the tuner try some external ones? On a side note, my domes stick up about half of Shootas for around a 8.5:1 with a 26 head in a 30 block.

Is it me just getting old but are those pistons dished in the picture? I hope not because if they are i can assure you your not getting 9:1 compression. For some reason i see a 5-9mm ring at deck height around the piston, then they dip down lower. Is that right? If so then i can see lots of Det causing pockets right under the quench pads. Did you round off the valve relief edges on the pistons? Its a really weird piston shape for those heads, what pistons are they? Part number? Maybe they are domed, im seeing dished, could be the way the pic was taken......

3.0L is like adding another 7th cylinder to a 2.6.....15% bigger.

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