sewid

Arrgghh http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...highlight=chips SEARCH IS YOUR FRIEND

Firstly, wrong forum, this should be in the maintenance section. Secondly, do a search, this has been covered more than any other topic.

All Nissan fuel caps are (should?) be the same. Hence you can buy a "Nismo" branded fuel cap and it will fit on any Nissan. This also makes mass production of the part cheaper which makes sense. My cap does not make a pressure release type noise and I do not smell any fuel vapour inside the car.

So they just put a plug where the antenna usually goes.. Couldve at least shaved it properly for the price premium nissan were charging.

- The stock tyre size was a joke. - ABS should've been standard - The boot is too small for such a long car - Active LSD standard or a cheaper option wouldve been nice. Would see more around. That being said there is so much to like about the R33. The car is well engineered from front to back from the huge stock calipers to the still-sexy-ten-years-later styling. :headbang:

Thank god the Japanese drive on the left is all i can say. What would the Skyline community be like here if conversions would be required!

Could be worse. Could be better as well ... but could be worse.

Correct. Check your cat and see if the sensor is plumbed in correctly. This really isnt much to be concerned about though. Good luck.

Discussed to death this one, put the restrictor back on, it's there for a good reason in this case.

should be possible to modify to fit. take the car and exhaust to a decent exhaust shop near you.

Yeah Crystal did suprise me in the amount of stock they had in the way of phat intercoolers and so forth. In that respect its worthwhile. I also went to Chiba Naganuma superautobacs but unfortunately it was closed that day for some unknown reason. In the carpark there were a load of GTR's though so i just walked back to the station (20mins walk) taking photos of nice cars. I'm also itching to get back to Japan, probably do a lot less running around chasing after car bits next time and just take it easy.

Surely the Audi S cars are quick.. Maybe not the S3 but S4, and S6. Twin turbo 4.2 litre AWD S4 wouldn't be bad.

how long are you staying in Japan? If you're staying 6months then it would probably be worthwhile buying a small car. I have never done that though so ask some of the Japanese residents on the legalities. You will need to have a International driving permit at least so if you didn't get one of those before you left you may be stuck. If you're only staying a month or so and you dont have a JR pass (cant get one from Japan) then you're going to be stuck paying for the train travel unfortunately. Up garage is a good store to visit for lots of interesting used bits for the car. Be careful buying stuff off the bargain shelves (priced 100 - 5000 yen) as it may be worn out or broken, hence it being cheap. Crystal is by no means a mandatory stop on any Japanese itinery. I went there a couple weeks ago and wasn't really impressed as the range of products for Skylines is very limited. Lots of nice wheels though. The only things i found tempting were seats (Recaros and Brides, all too big to bring back) and Ganador mirrors (on sale but still couldnt bring myself to part with the $500 or whatever). I would go out to Tokyo Bay Superautobacs as the sheer size of it is impressive and the range of products, while not huge for Skylines, is still fun to wander about in. The carpark is also quite good with loads of good cars you can photograph. Also a Tommy Kaira dealership is at the same location. Upstairs in Superautobacs is a book store with loads of interesting Skyline books and brochures for sale from 1000yen up. I would definately take a trip out to Omori to visit the Nismo Omori factory, if you know some Japanese you may be able to see more than just the showroom as they have a decent workshop too. To find out how far it is between any two train stations in Japan use this: http://grace.hyperdia.com/cgi-english/hyperd01.cgi

That's what I would be worried about. What it amounts to is paying extra for incompetency. Just because some tuner doesnt know how to tune a very common ECU, why pay extra for him to learn? I would take the car and drive very fast in the opposite direction as soon as you can before it costs you.

You will have to find out if the momo wheel came with the appropriate R33 w/HICAS boss kit. If not you will have to source a boss kit with the appropriate HICAS sensor in it. It's not a great idea to drive around with the HICAS like that. I would replace the steering wheel with the stock one for now and do more research if I was you. Search the forums for boss kit.

Hey Tony The headlight I bought from you was nice and clear but looks like it has a leak somewhere as well or perhaps some water got in somehow and hasnt been able to evaporate out since. It still looks 100% fine most of the time except after a decent rain but im not that fussed. The best way to restore a R33 headlight ive found is to just use some metal polish or any abrasive cleaner on the front outside plastic.

Both engines have VVT - some would say the R34's is better.

Im glad to see that everyone on this forum seems a little more grown up towards this particular topic than our friends over at the ford forum. I agree the XR6t is a fantastic car and one of the better decisions by ford australia, lets hope we see more australian turbo cars. Turbo commodores, turbo awd magnas, etc. Its just a shame that some drivers of it can't accept that there are other manufacturers of quality turbo cars out there and that it has nothing to do with stickers or bodykits or whatever else some owners choose to put on their cars. That said I have now decided that I would not buy a ford of any kind any time in the future unless by some strange financial foible Nissan gets bought out by them.

Everyone should use a clay bar regularly, perhaps every 6 months or more often if you park the car outside, more often if you park it under a tree. All a clay bar does is remove crap from your paint. You use it carefully with a detailing lubricant and afterwards you will notice the paint is very smooth. It's probably time for a wax after that to protect the paint. Whether or not it will remove the light marks you have in your paint is hard to say, but its definately worth clay baring the whole car anyway. Worst case you could get just those three panels resprayed for $500 or less.

How about detailing the damage so people dont bother writing to you with requests for parts that dont even exist.

I believe the champaign gold R34 GT-R in the photo "carpark_18.jpg" is an M-Spec isn't it? I think that was a limited edition colour for the M-Spec only.

Pull out the front drive shafts. Although its not exactly a trick.

The 400R has the "RB-X GT2" engine which is closer to 2.8litres (2770cc)

The ECR33 (R33 GTS25t) has a factory LSD (8/93 onward). From I think 95 onwards there was a factory option for an Active LSD which is obviously better than the standard LSD in that there is some sensors and a computer to control the way the LSD works. The easiest way to tell whether you have active LSD is to look on the dash and if there is a SLIP or A-LSD indicator in the middle you have A-LSD. Very few cars have the Active LSD so don't get your hopes up.

Dave, That is freaking awesome. I would've seriously shat my daks if I managed to get there on that day. Can I get some full sized versions of some of these? :(