sewid

RB20's? Sure you dont have SR20's?

Just from those photos its impossible to tell if its repairable. Did the crash extend past the strut tower. Is it bent up behind the strut? Are the two rails that are at the front under the engine where the cross member bolts onto the chassis straight? If its straight then urbanoperations is right, a straight front-cut would be required. You can simply drill out the inner guard panels spot welds and weld on a new front quarter inner guard panel and voila. straight again.

yeah i have a bunch of skylines collecting dust on top of my tv cabinet thing. seemed like a good idea at the time.

I looked at Rinkya but it seemed to me that the price of the item was always the lesser of the charges. They seem to charge you for everything, there is surcharge after surcharge, by the end of the transaction you pay $40 for the item and $400 in charges to Rinkya then $200 to ship the item and etc etc etc I think it works out cheaper to buy the items in Australia (most can be ordered through Nengun, Rezz, Greenline, whoever).

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You will go thru about 55 litres of petrol (a tank) in 300 - 350 km if you drive normally or 400 - 450 km if you drive mostly on the highway. An R32 does not consume much less fuel than an R33. The difference really is only 500cc of displacement, of which you probably make up by being more of a leadfoot. For 15k you are really in R32 GTS-t territory, any R33's you can find for that much will be auto, non turbo, old and busted, or all of the above. You will be stretching it for a good R32 GTS-t aswell at 15k Id say get together 18k and get a nice R32 or R32 with some minor mods, exhaust, performance panel filter, maybe an SAFC or an EBC.

Im not saying this is the best idea but if it was my car this is what I would do. Take it to a decent workshop i trusted and get them to check it out properly, pull the thing out if necessary. It might need some work. That way you could identify the type of clutch and whether its worn or not. At the moment it sounds like you may be causing undue wear and stress on your gearbox which i dare say is more expensive than the clutch.

I currently have the Apexi boost control kit connected to the Apexi PowerFC. I admire your offer and you seem to stand by your device so I will wait until your more detailed information arrives before i would take you up on anything. Currently i dont run anything more than 9psi anyway due to summer (i know its not now but yesterday was 39!!) and it being my daily driver. So for now im laying off in this thread.

oh and the HKS Zero-R :)

They look good on R34's. Dont know about the 33's though.

How about the Apexi A450 ?

Search the forsale forum. Those parts sell quite often on there.

According the the manual, part number 17001 is something to do with the fuel pump. Could be the fuel pump regulator.

Look I admit i might be wrong about EVERY relief valve being built using springs/diaphragms because i cant say ive looked at lots of different valves from every manufacturer. I have looked at many and pulled them apart to find that mostly they look the same inside. But your attempt at explaining why gas is used here is technically flawed and completely wrong. 1) This valve is small, it has no cooling mechanism (compressor, radiator, etc) 2) Cooling air quickly requires a lot of effort and a lot more hardware than this valve provides. This is what we all get bigger and better intercoolers for. 3) Whatever gas they put in this valve is not immune to the laws of thermodynamics. 4) Ergo the gas will heat up to ambient or higher temperature before the car even starts up. The gas will then reach the same temperature as the air passing thru the valve quite quickly. Even if the gas is stored compressed it is not going to be any cooler than ambient temperature. Only the expansion of that gas will result in any cooling effect. Of course the expansion of the gas means the gas has to go somewhere, into the atmosphere probably? And if not into the atmosphere it will need to be recompressed to perform the useful cooling work again. I dont see a compressor attached to this very special boost controller.

Huh? I've pulled apart valves like this many times myself. im yet to see one that isnt built like that.

i work in IT... which explains why im here all day long.

I would only buy them if they were gas filled for maximum thermal pleasure

The 300zx AFM is not bigger than the RB25DET's AFM but it is different and would at least some kind of piggyback system to make it work with the stock ECU. A RB25DET AFM comes in two different types depending on the wiring loom you have as well. For a series 1 engine the plug is different to the series 2 engine. From the pictures it is evident that you have an early model RB25DET engine so the Series 1 AFM is what you need. They usually sell for about $200 AUD on the forums but get snapped up quickly. You might be able to get one of the aussie import wreckers to send you one though since it's a fairly small item.

Yes you wear the synchros quicker. The oil will only go so far to help. Personally I would still fit one but I would be prepared to rebuild/replace the box in a year or 2 since I dont know the condition of the box in the car as it is. Depends on how much driving you do of course and how much you make use of the quickshift. If your slamming the gears home every gearchange obviously its not good for it.

Yeah ill take the lot. Ill PM and email you.

This is coming from a guy that says "using gas ... keeps the temps cooler inside the valve"... Yeah you're a real expert. No wonder this thing improved your performance, you were using a hairbrush as a bleed valve before. If its not simply a spring/diaphragm device and actually uses gas, the gas sure isn't there for keeping the temperature down.

umm.. heh.. i dont mean to criticise but i think that would look amazingly aweful.

the wide body one looks horrible. the panels dont even line up in the publicty shots. Im sure it would be a farkin terrible fit once it finally got here. I would go the first one. for the turbo upgrade, why dont you get an R33 front cut. You get front brakes and a better engine in the deal.

:D :headspin:

My usertext says - basically - Skyline Junkie. But if you were to read and pronounce it litterally the sounds are actually: Su-ka-i-ra-i-n - スカイライン ja-n-ki - ジャンキ Remembering that in Japanese the vowel sounds are: a - as in far i - as in field u - as in put e - as in get o - as in pot Of course in Japan they would, and do, just say Skyrine. Supra would be: Su-pu-ra Which is a whole lot simpler just: スプラ