sewid

Here is the relevant post: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...hlight=1995+ecu

I cannot verify this with any emperical data, it is purely anecdotal, but it has "better" maps. I believe there were some posts here once with some graphs representing the maps from 95 ECU's and other year stock ECU's. I will use the search button now.

Technically it should be fine since the PS2 cable is just a straight thru cable. The only thing you would need to be concerned over is making it too long and suffering attenuation or resistance problems. An extra meter wouldnt be a problem.

Hrmm. I believe it would be very easy but if you are trying to replace the stock ECU with another stock ECU I have heard that the 1995 model is the pick of the bunch. I think the money it would take to find a 1995 ECU would be better put into getting a PowerFC. The ECU itself is very simple to pull out, you can find it behind the passenger side kick panel.

ill take it. Im in north ryde at work right now. where you at? Actually ill pm you.

Good idea. Another would be to unscrew the caps but leave the globes in. Turn the lights on and let evaporation do its thing.

NRMA charge 300 since it's an import. not really worth it.

Danger To Manifold!!!!!11

Well I had a stock boost setup. I removed the ECU signal to the solenoid and power the solenoid off the 12v ignition line. This enabled the solenoid to be open all the time and hence the car would boost to ~7psi as soon as possible instead of > 5000rpm. If i was using a bleed valve I would not have to connect anything to the solenoid.

Heh. Have you seen the exchange rate lately. $799USD is about $1092AUD

Disconnecting the solenoid is not a problem. The ecu does not know the difference. I ran my solenoid disconnected for a very long time.

They probably would. I am using 18" rims from a 350z track at the moment on my s1 R33 GTST. fit straight on.

Bulli is pretty good, not too many k's out of wollongong. I would've gone further I guess if i had eaten before attempting the ride and it wasn't 9pm at night and i couldnt see shit on the road.

Ah ok thanks

I would buy it if we could find a company who would ship it to sydney cheaply. It is even the right colour. If you can get the approx weight and dimensions of the bar I will get a quote on shipping. Pic of the bar would be good too. Thanks.

50km! ouch. max i've ever done is my house to Engadine while trying to ride to Wollongong. 42km and then i gave up and got the train home.

I got quotes ranging from $80 - $120 per rim to remove gutter rash and restore the finish on some 17" GTR rims. I sent photos to the guys at www.rebelwheels.com.au for one quote and they were very helpful. sales@rebelwheels.com.au.

I looked at this on the weekend and how the hell do you get the thing off the car. I didnt want to mess with it too much as they are expensive to replace if you break them I think. So how do you get it off?

The moral or this story is that not everything you read on the net is true.

I was in the process of building the same thing but then I got the PowerFC + Apexi boost controller. So anyway I have the parts required to make this device if anyone is interested in buying them. That is: 1 x R07-200-RNKG Inline 07 ¼ Regulator Relieving 7Bar; 1 x V07-200-NNKG Inline 07 ¼ Relief Valve 7 Bar; 2 x 2069-02 07 Spring 0.7 Bar (brown); I have already installed the 0.7 bar springs.

I think your assumption that he would've called for some police to attend the scene would be right. The fire brigade have no powers like this but if the van driver was drunk then a slight bluff on the part of the firey would have fooled him and maybe prevented some disaster. A van almost ran me off the road as well on Sunday, I was along side him and his beaten up 1980s toyota van decided he wanted to be in my lane despite my horn and swerving and near locking up. Then he gives me the finger as if I was in the wrong.

im going to steal this and post it on another board if you dont mind. I will post credit to you though

I was thinking some Tamiya model paint would work for this as it is designed for plastics.

I saw this movie where a small fire started in the electrical systems of a 747 and slowly spread taking out one eletrical system after another until the plane crashed. Probably not related though

Its important to get it off quickly, try polishing it off with a cloth and some mild cutting compound. A good detail should take care of it if you are busy. The faster you get it off the more likely you are to get rid of it all.