sewid

These are popping up on boards all over the world now so may as well post them here. Enjoy! I'm not loving the shape straight away but it could grow on me.

My standard R34 GTR wheels came with some open ended nuts. Try Repco or Autobarn - failing that try any fastener shop.

Pitwork is a large manufacturer of aftermarket oem style parts. They retail things in Australia as well.

R34 GTR front: R34 GTR rear: Front end external differences: - Bonnet (shorter and aluminium (std, Vspec, M-spec) or carbon fibre (VspecII, M-Spec optional)) - Front bar - Front air guide (Vspec+) - Front lip with plastic front underbody tray - Pumped lightweight alloy guards - 18 x 9 wheels with 245/40R18 tyres standard - Brembo 4 piston caliper brakes - Larger brake rotors - Front mounted intercooler - GTR badging Rear end external differences: - Rear bar - Spoiler - Adjustable wing - Carbon fibre rear undertray (VSpec+) - Pumped rear moulded guards - Brembo 2 piston brake calipers - Larger brake rotors - 18 x 9 inch wheels with 245/40R18 tyres standard Needless to say there's a hell of a lot more different apart from the externals

They do also come in 6 speed manual.

Taking the dash out to wind back the odometer is far from a professionals job. In fact anyone doing such a thing is hardly a professional anything and is more properly labeled a crook and a con-man. The whole operation to take out and wind back an odometer for most cars is a 20 minute job, about an hour if youve never done it before. All imports with "hard to believe" or "remarkably low" kms have had their ODO's wound back its a fact of life. It doesnt matter what you think of the interior condition or that its really clean or that your car is special - you are only kidding yourself.

Yeah - spend money on making sure your car isnt a dud when it arrives instead of immediately increasing boost to 1bar. If the turbos go bang you could be up for a full rebuild.

Sounds interesting - im keen on a 4WD dyno reading

That's hot

Are you sure the front bar and rear spoiler are aftermarket? Those look like the factory 98 Type-MR items to me. That is by far the best GTS-T nissan ever made. edit: See heres a completely factory 98 type MR: Sorry to mess up your thread but i think the fact that these items are factory standard adds value to this car. This is pretty much a series 3 GTST.

I had Jap at Sapporo on Willoughby st in crows nest last night - thats a decent place with room for a meet.

Yes Geoff could do more research into it but he cannot control suppliers. If he put more pressure on suppliers by not buying cars from known bad suppliers (those who wind back every odo they get) then maybe something could happen. I dont see this happening though as the particular suppliers he works with have large number of cheap and nasty cars which sell quickly due to their low price. People think they get bargains. In other words, things work fine right now, with only a couple of complaints every now and then, so why change? I think its wrong too but thats life in this fairly dodgy end of the import business. I think what he needs to do is insist that his suppliers supply auction sheets for every advertisement Geoff puts on his website which are displayed for everyone to see along with the photos he already has.

I recommend you put a suzuki cappuccino turbo on your RB25DET it will spool very fast.

Never take your car back there again. And 290km/s for a full tank is about average for a standard ECU car driven hard around the city.

PMS isnt the supplier - Geoff advertises cars from a number of Japanese suppliers. He has no control over what the suppliers are doing with the cars. It really is the Japanese export industry that needs to clean up it's act but it wont happen because there are enough uneducated people willing to buy 15 year old cars with 40,000km on them.

Warning everyone!! Businesses are trying to make a profit!

Seems that they put all R33's under the HR33 banner. My R34 GTR is listed as a HR34 GTR VSPEC... go figure.

Dont bother leaving it to warm it up. Just drive it off boost and change gear at low rpm until its up to operating temperature. Warming it up just wastes fuel and wears the engine more as everything takes longer to get to operating temps. Dont need to let the engine idle to cool it down either. Just drive normally to your destination and take it easy for the last 1 or 2 minutes of driving. Idling it to cool it down really doesn't make sense as you no longer have airflow so you arent going to get it much cooler. Just dont thrash it and turn it off immediately. What do you want for your civic?

It controls the triangles. Half or full triangles. It's your choice!

Where did you hear that? HPI did a large article with a side by side comparison and the auto was only a touch slower.

The one you drove may have been crapped out. The auto box is really quite good in these cars by all reports and only very slightly slower than the manual versions. Its the same auto technology Mitsubishi are still hyping up today.

I think you're mistaking the FTO for the GTO. The GTO is a completely different car.

The powerplay guys are awesome - did you save money over buying one locally?

Im wrong - it was a receipt and it had already been posted! doh!

If the wheel nuts have to go inside a hole then its unlikely that anything except inverted head type nuts will fit. My wheels are the same - Rays/Nismo LMGT3's which required these weird wheel nuts. Kinda sucks. I get the feeling that its the same for any wheel where there are 10 holes around the center cap.