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Conratulations on the GTR! I bet you're loving life The power will feel amazing for about, say, 6-8 weeks. Then you'll want more

That's titanium grey right? My fayv

He looks like a fat Corey Delaney. Figures

I think it's been discussed a fair bit. Doubt it will do much for your setup.

I've been quoted $350 for a remap. If you are in the market for it a power FC is a good option. But if you choose a remap ask around for prices! You could also go piggyback, SAFCII/NEO for example. For tuners in Western Sydney i recommend Unigroup or CRD.

Fair enough. If your exhaust isn't too loud i wouldn't worry about lumpy cams. In my experience most cops aren't motoring enthusiasts. They might love cars, but won't be able to tell your car has a set of cams. They'll recognise a pod filter or a BOV for sure, but that's about it IMO. You'd be seriously unlucky to come across a cop who'd know you're running cams he can't even see. Even if you mod the car, if you're aren't driving crazy you shouldn't have any problems. Or just wait till you're off your greens and build the motor then (or get a turbo)

I'm not in-the-know about the p-plate laws. What about ECU mods? Is that irregal? I'm thinking with those mods you have, plus some head work, you can fiddle with fuel maps and timing to sqeeze some extra kws out.

very impressive. It's good to see they've kept the car focused. Still can't wait till a tuning house blows our socks off.

Now he's free to buy a Skyline.

Great thread Beer Bizzle! Keep it coming

Two cars at once? Dang

Hi Gary. I like your post, i agree it doesn't reduce bodyroll. I reckon it makes the rear feel like it rolls more, IMO that's the 'squirming' feeling you get. Well for a wally like me HICAS is great. I don't drive a race car, i drive a street car. I can't reach the limit of grip pretty much ANYWHERE safely (passing the limit means over the cliff, for you it's into the kitty litter) so HICAS doesn't bug me that much. I've decided when i start doing track days i'll get a lock bar to improve handling and shed some kgs. I'm pretty sure most Skyline owners who track their cars take this route...

For the street i actually really like HICAS. It's definitely good for mid-speed cornering. I'm not looking to get a lock bar at this stage. BUT that said any cornering at 100km/h or above can be scary at first (i shit myself) because it actually feels like 3x the amount of roll you'd normally feel. The car is trying to HELP turn-in, but unless you know how the limit of how far it kicks the rear into the turn it feels unstable, which is very scary for a novice driver at high speeds. My advice is for the streets is get used to HICAS and it's pretty good. Learn its behaviour and limits. For the track and high speeds corners/drifting it's probably better to lock it. What you want on a track is a car that instills confidence; you need the rear wheels to behave how you expect.

I have the same issue. Advice would be good!

I'm in the same boat...i've transferred from V-Power to Vortex Last batch of Vortex just didn't feel right...

Air flow metre or oxygen sensor need cleaning/replacing?

I agree with everyone. Your car will start (but not boost properly) if the controller is on the wrong way. Your car WON'T start if a sensor is unplugged or a vacuum line isn't connected. Check everything you worked on.

Price sounds ok. Do as many things as you can afford, do it once and you can forget it for another 100k. There's also air filter, clutch fluid flush, brake fluid flush, power steering flush, replace water pump, replace belts. Also what gtstee said is important too. Those things are a good idea if you are keen. A dyno tune-up is a good idea if the car is sluggish. Had my timing tweaked on a dyno recently and made a big difference.

This thread made me cry...i'm going outside to hug my R33

What i say isn't absolute or expert opinion, it's my opinion. If anyone takes advice from someone on the forum and spends thousands without asking a workshop to verify are plain stupid I agree that cams and porting don't gaurantee an awesome responsive motor. I'm talking from the perspective of RB20 Vs. RB26. If we're talking RB20 left stock to RB20 with head work then of course the stock with have better response but be more restrictive up top. I can give an example of this work being done, and it backs up what you were saying. One of the dudes on the drive i went on had about 245rwkw on his RB20 with a pair of cams on the head. He said it made a big improvement. Another R32 had a totally stock engine but a slightly bigger turbo. Redlining third gear side-by-side the R32 with cams couldn't pull away (as you'd expect earlier power). Approaching redline the stock motor R32 began to edge away as the turbo on the cam'ed RB20 ran out of puff. Saw that with my own eyes. Either the guy was BSing about the amount of power he made or cams don't really do much unless the setup is real special So as i said, blow for blow a stock RB20 is a good thing for the street if you want response, versus a worked RB20 which might just gain lag from low RPM. But comparing it to an RB26 it will suffer BOTH down low and up top.

I know it's shocking lag. One dude had a KKR something and is about double the size of factory (it nearly touches the strut tower). Another had a highflow which was bored out to the point of the workshop saying "don't bolt it up too tight, you'll warp the housing" They go hard but RB20's need a bit of help if you put it up against the RB25+26. Cams and porting ftw.

IMO the paddles should move with the wheel so they are dead square with your hands on hard cornering. I've never driven a car with flappy paddles but the ones on the factory GTR work totally fine from the looks of it in the recent Fifth Gear review. They're big so even when you're cornering they aren't hard to reach. So i'd say stick with factory because it works! BUT it mightn't be the same on other cars. I saw another review of some Euro car (bloody forgot), and the reviewer was turning hard, wanted to change up and needed to actually move his hand from the wheel to reach the paddle. That's annoying and dangerous

Make sure you find out. My mate put redline oil in his LSD'd R34 GTT and said it drove crap. He wants to change the diff oil again now for something to suit an LSD

All over the world Skylines are crying out for your car.

If your after 224rwkw roughly i'd just rebuild the RB20 (if it's clapped out) and make it as reliable as possilbe. It can make that power without much stress. My mate is making 210rwkw in his R32 and his engine is dead stock with a decent turbo and support mods. If he rebuilt the motor (i told him to, as opposed to going an RB25 ) and got the head ported it would be seeing close to 250kw methinks and be tight, responsive and would last quite a while. I reckon the extra CC's in the 25 and 26 make them better for the street because of the extra torque and generally quicker boost (depends on turbo size of course). I went on a crusie with three R32's recently and they don't make full boost till about 5000rpm. I easily pull away from them with my stock turbo RB25 until they're doing about 6500rpm and making FULL power . So uprated cams and cam gears with a rebuild will help that, meaning all of this stuff done to your RB20 make it into a weapon. So don't bother with the conversion if your not DETERMINED to go an RB26. Make what you have work.