SteveL

The front prop shaft from my GTR had very notchy unis, which obviously needed replacement but unfortunately uses the (usually) non-replaceable (staked) type. A new shaft is something like $2K plus shipping from Japan. I wouldn't even bother asking the local Nissan spares dept. Rang Hardy Spicer but no go, which surprised me a little. There's a place over Dandenong way that would make me a 'performance' shaft but un-necessary in my situation. They claimed to be getting the equipment in to replace staked unis but couldn't give me a timeframe. Anyway, long story short, found a place to do the work just 5 mins from me: https://knoxdriveshafts.com.au $420 (cash) and about a week later I have my driveshaft back. Price includes balancing. Owner is a one man band working out of a shed in his backyard but from what I could see he's very well setup with some expensive equipment.

The question then becomes - was there any fluid coming from that hole before you did the rebuild ? You may not have noticed, of course. Depending on how you did the rebuild, the possibility has to be considered that somehow (cleaning ?) fluid entered that hole and is now being 'forced' out by small movements of the proportioning valve. From the factory, there's actually a small rubber plug in that hole but with age and under-bonnet heat it's quite common for it to 'go missing'. That rubber plug is designed to allow the venting process but also to prevent 'stuff' getting to the area (prevent corrosion, etc). The plug is also not available as a spare part AFAIA. Personally I wouldn't race and buy a new master just yet but keep an eye on the area to see if the 'leak' continues. If you're concerned about brake fluid damaging nearby paintwork, cable tie a piece of suitable absorbant material over the hole and remove/monitor occasionally. Operation of the proportioning valve and the brake master itself won't be affected, but also keep an eye on brake fluid level, of course. In terms of a new master, the genuine part is getting expensive, unfortunately. Amayama is showing AUD900+. I was searching recently and there's an aftermarket part available from Japan made by 'Parts Assist': https://zenmarket.jp/en/yahoo.aspx?q=BNR32%2bBM50&p=1 Whether it's any good I have no idea, although in my experience Japanese aftermarket stuff is pretty good quality-wise. The above site allows overseas buyers to purchase stuff more easily from Japan but there are fees and shipping costs, of course. The original Japanese seller page is here: https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/p1197401228 Copper/Nickel is fine but I still prefer bundy tube and it's also cheaper.

I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this. The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder. The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals. The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market. It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them. Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal in Australia - if that's where you are).

From my bolts, standard M8 with 1.25mm thread pitch (M8x1.25mm). Length is 19mm under the head and has a captive 18mm OD flat washer. 20mm length from a bolt shop is what you'll be able to get. Make sure they're zinc plated. If you're concerned about strength, grade 8.8 will be more than enough. Original PN is 01121-04971. Now discontinued according to Amayama but that's because it's one of the parts that's been captured by the Heritage program, which explains the ridiculous price. New PN is 01121-RHR20: https://nismodirect.com/nismo-heritage-bolt-pin-hinge-hood-bnr32-nissan-skyline-gt-r-01121-rhr20-01121-04971/ About AUD33 converted from Yen in the above link but that's just one example. Interesting that the hinge-to-body bolts are still available non-heritage.....PN 08116-8161G around $2 each (amayama). Same thread but 16mm long.

As above, could be fuel. Have a sniff of the plugs - oil and fuel have distinctive smells. If the engine was burning oil I'd expect the plug tip to be black and oily, not largely 'clean' oil. Also the car would be blowing white smoke at idle with that amount of oil. I have seen something like this once before on an RB that had leaking rocker cover gaskets. Oil was 'pooling' in the spark plug wells and when the plugs were removed the oil was making its way onto the threads and the end of the plugs.

I assume the lights/sirens are for those last, desperate passing manoeuvres LOL. If you don't mind I'll pass this on to others I know that might be interested but don't come here. If there's any interest I'll let you know with contact numbers. Suitable trailer is probably going to be the sticking point.

I'm good with that......as long as you're volunteering to be the CTD.......

....or - better yet - forget about ruining a perfectly good car and just go out and buy a taxi with its own pre-installed boat anchor..... [that should get 'em going.....in my defence I'd note that I've done the Chev 350 into Jag thing but that was years before I got my GTR, and the Z come to think of it]

370z is a nice car to drive and, personally, on looks alone I'd take one of those over an R33 any day. Had a supercharger on my Silhouette for awhile. Great around town......BW diff didn't like it much though.

Yeh that's bad and seriously perforated. That said, depending on the complexity of the channel design on the 'other side' (hidden in the photos) it should be possible to cut out the rust and TIG weld in replacement sections. Quite a bit of work but doable with the right equipment and skills. After that it's appropriate corrosion protection treatments - zinc plating if possible but appropriate corrosion resistant primers, paints at the very least. Looks like the original part came with a basic paint job so corrosion was pretty much inevitable. You're in Germany from your profile, so spares are probably thin on the ground (??) if that turns out to be the only way to go. Maybe the UK is a possibility where Japan imports are probably more common. According to Amayama some of these parts are still available new....but not cheap. Another option is specialists that might be able to source these parts from Japan like Import Monster, secondhand or new.

Buy what you want to buy if you can find it and ignore that other 'bullshit'.

Mine's fine, but thanks for the concern.

All R32/R33/R34 models have a comprehensive fault code mapping system, which is actually simple to check - do a search. Fault code check is always the first thing to do. If the original CAS had been faulty it would likely have tripped error code 11 (universal for all R32/R33/R34 models, I believe). Replacing the CAS didn't fix the problem suggests there was no error code (CAS OK) and makes me wonder whether they've been checked properly.

Engines would have been produced sequentially like the chassis, so low numbers probably = earlier. Nissan FAST doesn't identify particular engine numbers with specific cars, so likely engines were installed as they were available/needed. Some motorcycle manufacturers use(d) matching engine/frame numbers (I have a couple like that) but it doesn't seem to happen with mass production cars AFAIA, probably to simplify production. Maybe with a Ferrari. Anyway, if it helps my Sept '89 chassis number 1650 came (I believe) with the original engine 002910A.

Have used these guys in the past but they have minimum order requirements. Maybe they can put you onto someone that will sell you the number you need. http://www.montronics.com.au/index.php?dispatch=categories.view&category_id=10 http://www.montronics.com.au/images/PDF Docs/P-Clamps Parts List (Rev 161014).pdf