SLED

A old mate of mine (Peter Chronis) used to own this joint many years ago. If he's still there, I know they do good quality work.........don't know how cheap though. Failing that, South Road Crash in Edwardstown are pretty cheap.

The commentary from the camera man is a crack up........if I was driving though, I'd be tempted to push him out at high speed.

Problem with most semi synthetics is that are they are built at a 'price break' in order to give consumers another option if they are worried about running straight synthetics for whatever reason. The way to test your cheaper semis is to determine what the 'VI' rating is (viscosity index) which is generally pretty low on the cheaper semis. One of the most popular brands names for semis out there (name witheld) for the last 40 or so years has a 'VI' rating of only around 105 which may vary slightly across their range. The high end oils (including ULX-110) has a 'VI' rating of approx 160. At the end of the day, if your happy using what your using, don't change, I'm just offering the information for anyone who's interested. By the way, you don't really believe it's just a motor with a turbo do you? A GTR that can be revved to over 9000 rpm with standard internals is not your average street car.

No, sorry R334door, I can't get it and don't know a real lot about it.

Here's another bit of logic that you may all want to consider.....Bunny33 has obviously done her homework and got this info from people that sell the stuff and know their product..... ULX-110 is good for 10k in the Skylines and retails in Outlaw Speed Shop for $60 x 5 litres 10w 40 + filter, so why would you want to spend $290 + filters every 10k. If you wanted to, you could drop the ULX-110 every 5k and still be saving heaps not to mention having very fresh oil in your sump always which offers more protection than synthetic to start with. Like I said in the earlier post, I'm going to buy this stuff directly from my mate and if I get enough interest I'll start a new thread for a group buy.

CORRECT..........and the things that stand out the most are black windows, too loud and too low.....other than that make sure your pods are secured because they sometimes shake them.

Sorry pkblade but nearly everything you've stated here has been proven incorrect. I just got off the phone to Marco of Elb's Racing and Pedro of ULX-110 who have confirmed everything I said in my previous post. Top Fuelers do pull engines down for inspection only every few runs because of the pounding they get.......it's got nothing to do with the oil they use but everything to do with the fuel they use (alcohol & nitro). If methanol is left to sit for any period of time it turns to jelly and everthing has to be stripped and cleaned as well. Synthetic oil has a lower viscosity than most mineral oils at the cold setting only but we live in Australia not Sweden so it doesn't apply to us. Synthetic oil used to be known for the couple of extra horsepower it could give you on the dyno but at the expense of your engines internals....it will not protect against piston skirt and bore scuffing and generally leaves your plugs too wet not to mention poor oil pressure and excessive oil consumption. ULX-110 will always have better cling factor than Synthetic which is what we mainly need....an easy test is to half fill 2 glasses with each oil and stir then see which one clings on the side of the glass the longest......Synthetic oils have always been known to be bad for cold starts anyway. As far as change between intervals, Mack Trucks in the USA have approved ULX-110 for 40,000 miles before change. RB engines already have enough issues with their oil galleries and passages being too large so why would exaggerate the problem by using synthetics?

I'm thinking the other way around as long as you're over 6 foot tall and have your big bike licence !!!!!

Hey Flick.....I was down there with the other bikes up until about 2.00pm........what times were you there?

Hey guys, I know you probably already have your favourite brands of engine oils (generally Synthetic) but has anyone considered ULX-110 which has all the advantages of Synthetic without losing the advantages of Mineral based oils. A guy that I worked with at Adelaide Engine Service for many years is the National Distributor for the oil which is now used by many Top Fuelers around the world including my mate Marco Elbe who runs a 6 sec Keith Black '57 Chev that you may have seen at the Extreme Horsepower Show...if you knew what Marco has spent on that engine you know he wouldn't use a mineral based oil unless it was fully tested and proven.....here's an extract from their website; http://www.ulx110.com/ Performance Advantages: Our multi-grade oils for gas and special fuels such as top fuel and alcohol have been designed with the help of some of the top engine builders in the United States. Demulsifiers and anti-scuff agents have been added for extended protection. Dyno tests have consistently shown an increase in horsepower consistent with synthetic oils but with none of the bad side effects such as scuffed cylinders and piston skirts, detonation, and weak spark due to wet plugs. Better oil pressure during severe and continuous service applications along with a reduction in oil temperature of 20F or more is also a plus. Our 2 friction modifiers work together to coat internal engine parts which results in protection at start up, and reduction of internal friction by 38%. This results in reduced fuel consumption of 8% or more in most vehicles. Like I said, I'm good mates with the National Distributor and would be happy to approach him for a group buy if the interest was there....ULX-110 may even help the well known problem with RB engines where too much oil hangs around upstairs causing alot of blow-by.

Saw ENR 034 down at the bay on Colley Tce at lunch time today just seconds before I accidentally set off an alarm on a parked car.......oops sorry.......gotta quieten that bike down!!

Hey Kel, nice to meet you the other night...........do you know what these guys recommend for a GTR engine and driveline and if so, any chance of putting bit of a list together, I should be dropping all the oils cos who knows when they were done....I've only had the car for 4 weeks.

What a beautiful day it is out there today........ I'm gonna grab the bike and hit the bay for a feed I think.......might see some of you down there........come and say hi if you do.

Hey Deluxe, Yeah that was me.......I think we both looked at each other wondering who it was....I've seen you a couple of times this week, you must live in the area.

I'd love to help out if I had the time but at the moment my work is all over the place.......don't know when I'm in the office or out on the road these days.

As he said, it probably would depend how it was driven

Now here's a good idea........ Group Buy for a car polish. I bet there's alot of faded Lines out there.

Got it......thanks

Next door to Adelaide Automatics 322 Marion Road, Netley........he's pretty cheap and does a thorough job.

Can't commit till tomorrow unfortunately.....approx what time will you be leaving the pub for the lights do you think?

My kids have been bugging me to take them to the Mt Lofty lights again this year......forgot all about the brewery lights though.

Do you mean crankcase pressure? You shouldn't lose oil pressure by removing a dipstick.

WoooHooo.......100 posts........woopty doo!!