Roy

What makes you think the head is a restriction? Always been curious as to why people think that. If you do the numbers then they add up just fine

You think its the engine or the compressor? Will knoew after Phillip Island when i throw the 73HTA on it and maybe the T67

So anyone running a Turbomsart Hyper-Gate (45mm) ? I am running whatever spring they coem with std, but as its on a 6boost manifold it seems the spring boost isnt consistant with what you end up with. Anyone know what spring I should be running to have ~18psi

Yep, thinking about cams though tuner is telling me not to bother...maybe after the 73 HTA goes on. Need new springs for the gate, so thats next on the list

So main difference is E85 allowing me to run more boost where 98 would stop maling power at 20psi Should be a bit quicker then before as it is now making over 280rwks @ 5,200rpm to red line! Not bad for a std 2L

Do a search in Braking and suspension thread as it has been discussed before. But with brakes more is often not better, and bigger is not always better. When looking at brakes the two things you have to remember are P=F/A or Pressure = Force / Area and F=uN or Friction = Friction coefficient x Normal Force So Assuming you apply the same brake pressure force to your brake pedal....the bigger the BMC the larger the denominator. The larger the denominator the lower the Pressure. That pressure is effectively (N) which correlates to the second equation F=uN so the lower the pressure the lower the force on the back of the brake pad (N) which means you have lower friction levels. This means you require more pedal effort. This is important to understand as big calipers with big pistons give you more braking force and you need to lower the pressure applied to them otherwise you end up with a light switch as a brake pedal and that means frequent brake lock ups and poor modulation. So its all about balance...and running a setup with more thermal dissipation with regards to bigger pads and rotors and then size caliper pistons and BMC to ensure you still have good feel and modulation. (ie, bigger rotors increase braking torque as well as heat dissipation...so all things being equal if you go up in rotor size then to maintain balance you can go down in caliper piston size so as not to mess with braking bias) LOL, this is a for sale thread. Do a search and do your homework to make sure you understand what you are buying...if you buy big brakes thinking you will stop quicker you are mistaken...if you want to stop quicker go buy better tyres and suspension to stop quicker...big brakes to stop as well the 10th time as you did the 1st time (consistency)

What happened to the twins?

Oh well, lets hope Tomei have done their homework with the Poncams on the Rb20. I am not expecting anything near your result as franly I will be amazed if the 20G can flow any more then the 306rwkws its currently flowing

I have just gone for the most common sizes for those running 17s and 18s. May change it to 235/17s and 265/18s in the lowest profile possible. Have made so many phone calls and emails to various suppliers I cant keep track of who does what in what profiles and sizes and compounds anymore. I

Great work...do the before and after graphs use the same ramp rates etc as the power curve with the cams seems to do a bit of darting around at the start and plays catch up to the std cam curve. Not doubting the result, as the cams do seem to make comfortably more grunt, just trying to understand if the cams actually allow comfortably more grunt at 3,000 & 3,500rpm which seems real surprising

I am in the final stage of organising a group buy on Hankook Ventus TD Z221 in 295/30/18 and 255/40/17s. Unless the group buy sells out quick then I doubt they will be ready before end of June

Well I am waiting to hear back on some group buy pricing of the Hankooks in 255/40/17s and 295/30/18s. Hopefully the pricing will mean they are affordable.

Nice work...just convinced me to give my Poncams a nudge Can you give us the run down. With the cams did the thing take more timing, more boost, simply make more power. Were the cams at 0-0??? LOL so many questions. 350rpm is a huge difference!

So, does that mean you have seen someone leave everything else the same except change to TB and realise a change for better/worse or no change? I understand people make perfectly good power with a certain TB. The reason I am considering it is the TB is obviously sized for a certain lbs/min of air. When you go from 110rwkws to 310rwkws I dont think its out of line to wonder what affect that has on pressure drop through the throttle body....or more to my thinking what its doing with regards to the velocity of air through it and in turn the pressure drop you have when it goes into the larger plenum and cylinder filling

Wow, Mexico.

Interesting, that calculator suggests 72mm when I enter my engine variables. I also run a plazmaman plenum and interested in trialling the throttle body. Hoping they will do me a return policy on one in case the performance doesn't match their asking price

I think the RB20 brigade need to pass the hat around and get the funds together to get this tuned. I am mega keen to see how this goes.

Nothing was changed that would make a difference. It blew out the turbo to mani gasket mid tuning so that had to be replaced. The areas of concern still need to be looked at but with tuner busy before he goes on holidays we had to focus on the tuning and fiddly bits. So when I get it back this weekend I am going to redo all the piping with Wiggins clamps as once the undertrays and brake ducts etc go back on buggered if I will ever be able to get to a blown cooler hose

255/40/17 Hankook Z221 - $420 Federal FZ201 - $350 + $50 freight to Melbourne

My understanding the HKS Manifold is T3 flange. The R32/33 GTST/GTR all accept the same kits. The difference is in the suitability to the master cylinder your car runs. If you run an R32 GTSt BMC or even worse an R33 BMC you may find that with a racey pad the brakes are a little too bitey and you may want to uprade to a larger BMC from an R33 GTR to drop the brake line pressure for the same pedal effort

The question is on what grounds have you decided you want/need a brake upgrade? If its performance then what is the current problem you are experiencing. If its part fashion/aesthetics (not having a shit, its part of the reason why I like big brakes) then its hard to go past the bracket and rotor upgrade with some nice performance street pads.

The FZ201s are $600 cheaper a set then the AO50s in my size. That just about makes my decision for me

Pretty stoked to crack 300rwkws with a std RB20