Roy

Was thinking thats what its going to cost (min) if you go oversized valves and chamber work as well. For inlet and exhaust ports you seem to be able to get it cheaper... but thats where i would love meaningful feedback. On an RB20 do you get the most gains in the combustion chamber and bowl or on the ports, lol or both ?

How much for the head minus the valves? Where are you located?

Yes, i have read some good things about JHH in Brisbane for head work. They all seem to be very expensive, which isnt really the problem if they can guarantee the results or give you good feedback on what works and value...rathe rthen just take 2.5k from your wallet (+ the rest) to give you a head that may make 2% more power or possibly make it even laggier

What Cerbera said, even if the setup maxes out a few kws shy of 350rwkws, the 3076 seems to be the best value way to response and power you are after

BUT, 250hp x 6 is a lot i need more like 85hp per rod If they were not that much more expensive and lighter then ok...but no point going to a heavier rod which increases loads on crank and bearings if i dont need that sort of strength for my power goals ?!?!?!?!!?

If its cheap then could be. In SA? It looks as though i have already sourced an engine, (its a runner) If it falls through then a blown motor suits my needs better provided the head isnt warped from overheating or anything silly. Will look into the ASR Sumps, though can nly find links to their products, not their website

My plans to conquer the track world with an RB20! I have been in this situation before, with all the parts etc only to sell them all off when i get the quotes from engine builers This time round i may stick it out...maybe The thing is all the RB20 stuff can be used on R32 RB25DEs so its easy to sell all the gear to RB25/30 homos .. the Berry R32 is such a cool thing with its near stock body...only it seems the car has gotten more expesnive since changing hands And yes, my real name is Cornholio...i came for your TP

Looking at Supertech cat i cant see how the CA18 valves fit, as they are different lengths (i had heard the same thing). So not convinced that the CA18 thing is true. I am thinking about the same thing as with the strong dollar then some valves out of the US are not going to be that expensive. The question is will the small little combustion chamber allow for oversized (1mm) inlet and exhaust valves, or should we stick with just doing the exhaust side?????? Being such a small chamber, you can crowd the chamber too much with valves and end up going backwards after great expense Its in these such cases that i wish i had an RB26 as porting on them would be a known qty vs RB20 heads

Gearbox? Fark Dane.... It will be an RB20, just with stronger internals and more compression and perhaps cams. Can make the power i want from teh 20, bigger displacement just gives me tyre frying torque which is no good to me. Hope it never goes in as i much prefer the comfort of running a std motor at the track

Strictly speaking thats not true I grabbed my Sony Ericcson in Australia and last week got it fixed in the UK under warranty If only a global car manufacturer like Nissan was the same

LOL, thats the plan and why i have the TD06-25G and Plazmaman inlet I will get it tuned based on the lie that its a built, fresh engine and can take it...where the power stops is what i run at the track and see how long it lasts. In the meanwhile the "RB20 or extraordinary magnitude" will be waiting in the wings

Well, finally some parts turned up at the right price so i finally get to prove to all the non-believers that a built RB20 will spank any SR20 (LOL, or so goes the theory)

Well it looks like i will be buying a new block so the build can take place whilst my car is on the street so can just as easily buy a RB20 froma GTS4 as a GTSt. The High Energy jobbies are uber dollars and have heard/read people with mixed results, so since i know of an RB28 in an R32 GTSt running a 4wd block and modified AWD sump with similar internals to all the sumps off RB26s...it seemed the best place to start. I think i will rather stick with a std sump then go for High Energy as I am not convinced that i need one...but will have to see what dollars are left over at the end. Plus just got new swybars and know of people having troubles with aftermarket sumps and swaybars, i know that wont be the case with the modded alloy jobbie because of said RB28 powered GTSt

Thread revival.... so who makes the lightest 26 rod that is decent enough, will have to handle around 350rwkws It seems: - Pauter are 530g - Spool 548g - Carrillo 474-507 depending on which rod - Eagle 495g (I like) - Argo ? RB30 rods are 643 so seem towards the heavier end of things So the Eagles seem cheap, reliable and light? Anything i am missing?

Please, at the moment i am thinking to jut mod a AWD RB sump as the person doing the build has a proven custom alloy sump that has served many a track RB, both RWD/AWD

If your engine has no blow by, knocks or rattles and comes back with a healthy compression test result, then there is no reason why you can reliably make 250rwkws and run up to 17psi. To do this reliably, make sure your fuelling is sorted, inlet temps and coolant/oil temps are not skyrocketing when you are giving it a squirt and make sure the tuning is good. From there, make sure you always have a good sump of quality oil, i recommend Castrol Edge 10W60 and enjoy RB20 goodness for a long time

i miss skids

yeh, yeh...carry on

How much for the bare motor and sump, no manifolds, looms, turbo etc

I am looking for an RB20 block and sump from an R32 GTS4????????/

Cool, but looking at their website Ferreas dont have off the sheld RB20 valves, lol so i am guessing that means more expensive custom

I just spent the last 60mins watching mascot vids..lol awesome!

But it helps, thanks! Was hoping i could get the alloy sump off a 4wd RB20 and use a GTR larger sump welded onto it and modded to suit RWD. Not a big deal if i have to find an AWD RB@) block as well, although i was hoping to use my current block and engine number

Yeh, i think Supertech do Inconel oversized valves for the RB20/25/26. Not cheap though

But what brand of valve do you go for. The RB26, SR20 etc use soldum filled exhaust valves dont they, so help keep the exhaust valve cool. A simply stainless steel exhaust valve would almost be a downgrade wouldnt it when it comes to keepng combustion chamber temperatures down???????