Roy

Why does your run stop at 6,000rpm? Sure, get the A:F right and wind the ignition in there to get max torque from a setup, but "high flowing" to means you are compromising low-mid rpm gas velocity which harms cylinder filling which harms torque which means gas velocity is slowed so less gas flow to spin that turbo to get it onto boost. But meh....why spend thousands of dollars for small gains, we are not competitive race teams striving for small gains. Go down some cans, jump a plane to somewhere different...do strange things to exotic girls in uncomfortable places and come back to your car after 5 weeks of happy days to a car that is 1/10 of a second slower or has a tad less throttle response

Give Duncan or Pete a steer!

With RE55s and 260rwkws i cant spin 2nd gear . So RE55s are the next best thing to a drag tyre

Not entering because you are worried about not being competitive ? Man, cant affors the entry and tyres, car is blowing oil, clutch needs fixing and is dollars that cant be found for the event, going to the GP, umm any reason other then being worried about being competitive. I know i will be slower then many of the Clubsprint Evos and GTRs but i dont care

No thanks. I am happy to wipe a few dollars off but not 33%. LOL, i would have bet money the numbers were right, good thing i didnt. Just looked it up and they are Part No. 4928 I am in Southbank Melbourne, if you pick up before Thursday night then $250 is ok, after Thursday i will rarely be home as i will be visting people so will be a ball ache to be waiting around the house whilst i am on holidays waiting for people to collect them... If its Friday or after i think i will be asking $280 pick up or + delivery

Getting a rwd car off the line needs more things then those lazy bastards with their AWD. Others will argue, but from a purely acceleration stance i think in order of priority you need the following: 1. Tyres, top road tyres, or RE55s etc 2. Good diff 3. Good clutch that isnt grabby and can take a bit of riding 4. Shocks and alignment

Personally i think these cars give the event the stature it requires. However i dont understand why "rear engined 6 cylinder cars" are outlawed and the Exiges allowed to run?!? The Exiges are no different from a Carrera Cup car in that they are basically homologated GT3 cars, though instead of running V8s, turbocharged 4s that Lotus have configured the various racing Exiges with, these things run supercharged Honda engines. Any chassis that has run in GT3 or higher class of motorsport should be excluded from entering. The event is about tuned cars, not ex race cars. Otherwise rather then sink $100,000 into a GTR, EVO, WRX etc you would just grab a 3+ year old GT3 Corvette, Viper, Elise, M3, Mustang etc etc with all the costly engineering done and punt the thing. Hell, wasnt the old Prancing Horse Racing Mustang for sale real cheap? John Bowe got some pace out of that thing and it was hamstrung by the rules. Throw some bits at it, remove some other bits and you would have a sub 70k car that would be leading the field. But, it is what it is and it gives the tuned cars something to chase

Rust Rat!

PMs replied to. Here is a few quick pics of my car with these wheels on it. Also took a close up of the scratch so people can see how there it is only paint and not a big gouge in the alloy

Here are the pics, The rust is just water stains from storage. Clean up no problem wit ha bit of brake cleaner.

Assume the bore needs to be re-bored. The rebuild used 20thou oversized N1 pistons so bore is probably 86.5mm already. The R32 crank when balanced was given the larger oil pump drive collar. I bought it off a friend when he removed the head after the hiccup and went RB30

Engine was rebuilt using N1 pistons and new bearings, oil/water pumps etc and has a sump to bolt into an R33 GTS25T. Something went wrong withing 5,000kms which saw a ring fail in cylinder 1 and lose compression. Asking $750 pick up in Melbourne

Just be mindful if you are going to a place with the "race setup" thinking...as things get very expensive very quickly. My car is a long way from having a race setup but here is a run down of what my brakes, wheels/tyres and suspension has cost me: - Custom Teins $3500 - Notlec and Cuscto Upper Arms + bushes & swaybars $1700 - Brembo F40 with 343mm rotors $3300 - Rear Brembo 2 pots with Project U rotors $1250 - 17x9 & 17 x 9.5 TE37s with RE55s $4700 Now recently i went to a place to change swaybars and play with alignment, isntall some new cusco castor rods etc and this cost me $1400. If they are charging $100+ an hour then getting them to do anymore then a wheel alignment will leave you bleeding But places like Racepace, Tru Track and Centreline know there way around club cars To get adjustability you need to spend serious money on arms and shocks and then hours for the alignment guys to get the package working. I played with my car for years and was happy with how It handled, but anybody that saw in car footage of it said it was evil....and then i had Racepace do the shocks and setting and the car was immediately light and day better bu just knowing what the car needed. Sometimes its just best to spend the money....but its quite a lot of money Re the rim size and slip? The bigger the rubber the heavier the rim/tyre. So i ran 235/40/17 RE55s for years and corner speed has never really been an issue for me at the track, nor has power down with similar power to you. But i have decided to jump up to 255 rears and 245 fronts but i honestly dont think i will see a grip difference, perhaps i will jsut get another lap or two before my erratic driving overheats the tyres

4009l & 4009R or something. They are slotted DBA 4000s for an R33/34 GTR measuring 324mm

Easily? I am of the school of thought that if you are running a 9" rim then you want to run a 255 street tyre or a 245 semi. If you are going to under tyre a rim to ensure guard clearance then you may as well just get a narrower wheel and have less weight. But i agree it will all fit, but if you are going to be tipping it over curbs then you need to be sure that you are not going to cut tyres on guards.

Though they clear the brakes after trial fitting and having a good look there is only about 1-2mm caliper clearance radially with the 343mm rotors so dont want to risk a stone damaging them or the calipers. Am back in Melb for about a week so will take $2000 pick up or + delivery Also need to flog my: Rays RE30s Project U GTR rotors Work XD9 wheels Brembo F50 calipers

These are brand new in boxes and are ideal width and offset for an R32 GTSt running standard guards. I grabbed these because they have great caliper clearance and look against the car. But cant bring myself to run brand new, expensive wheels on the track so have sorted some cheaper used Volks that offer similar brake clearance. Also the perfect track rim/size for Evos Asking $3200 ono. These were a silly impulse buy and need to try and pay for the body work on my car. If you have a silver or white R32 GTSt these rims are damn cool...be great to see a neat R32 GTSt with a tasty set of wheels

I am back in Melb for the next week so can do them for $1200 pick up with no tyres or $1350 as is with near new fronts and legal rear tyres. I have so many sets of rims , some of which look good on the car but dont clear brakes, look awesome, clear brakes but dont suit the car etc etc so i just need to get rid of them. Considering how strong the yen is at the moment all the wheels are pretty cheap. I need this crap gone so i can pay for the spray job

Yeh too big, R33 GTSt are 296mm and GTRs are 324mm

Yeh, dont forget to make sure the wheel is perfectly straight otherwise you will leave the front diff on the ground

Just get an R32 crank and do the smple collar mod. New cranks are at least $1000

Ok if you want absolute max tyes and rims in std guards then 17x 8.5 +30 on the front and 17 x 9 +35 for the rear. If you want to tickle the guards then you can go 17 x 9 +30 at the front and 17 x 9.5 at the rear which is what i now run. I think the sensible approach was 17 x 8.5 + 30 all round allow you to run 235 to 245 semi slicks and can rotate them as they wear front to rear. As for suspension i think the best bang foir buck is Tein Super Streets with some adjustability in your suspension arms ans swaybars. Sad thing is some good forged rims will be between $1500-2000. Bushes and arms about $1000-1200 installed. Semi slicks will be $1500 so its not hard to spend $5000 in a real hurry, Bets bet is grab some shocks then swaybars, then bushes/alignment and then worry about rims and tyres...that the order in which i would spend my money

Risking...How much for the hats and rotors? No problem selling them if i get the right offer. I will dig out my account details Scooby and send them to you

These rotors have done about 3,000kms of street driving and 10-12 laps of Calder raceway. Have some light surface rust from being stored in garage. Asking $300 ono. Can provide pics on request

If i was going to buy a race car then i would buy a Porsche 944. I was tempted to buy a good one that came up recently but it wasnt able to be registered (some still have road rego) but its still about 12 months too soon and i am still tossing up between a cheap circuit car for a series or a cheap Rally car to run in the HRA