(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

The Japanese side rear view mirrors are convex'd. Previous owner probably stuck it on to make the "Image in the rear view mirror may appear closer then they are"... To magnify in order to get a closer look at the objects...

Yeah they say change it every 100,000 km's. So since its was changed at 63,155 km's, you won't need to change it again till 163,155 km's. Yeah your timing belt will be fine. But you can always check to see what brand they used... I bought my car at 113,000 km's, 1990 model and had a Nismo Timing belt. There was no date when it was changed or any stickers, so to be safe I just changed it to a Genuine Nissan Skyline R32 GTR Timing belt as you can be safe with that.

LOL! Hell no! No Chrome! Yuck! The wheels I photoshopped on your Blue R33 GTR are silver... They just look very shiny. Nismo LMGT4's come in Silver, Gun Metal Grey, White, Black and Bronze. Silver What looks to Gun Metal Grey... White Black Bronze Veilside Andrew Racing Evolution V Fat ass deep lip. I think better on old school cars. TE 37's / Top Secret Gold TE 37's / Polished Lip TE 37's / Time Attack TE 37's (Black wheel with Red colour lip).

Hehe!! No worries, all good! I must thank HPI Magazine to help me understand how to work it out. All this just to know what year the timing belt was replaced... They could have just wrote April, 2000... LOL!

^ I believe Nissan Skyline were pursuing Porsche since the first GTR was built. The earliest predecessor of the GT-R, the S54 2000 GT-B, came second in its first race in 1964 to the purpose-built Porsche 904 GTS. - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skyline_gtr "The great-granddaddy of the new GT-R, the "Godzilla" R32 Skyline GT-R produced from 1989-'94, was designed to equal the performance of the iconic Porsche 959. Nissan's benchmark for the 2009 GT-R? The mighty Porsche 997-series 911 Turbo." - http://www.edmunds.com/nissan/gtr/2009/review.html

LOL! Yeah for sure man!

The Timing Belt should have been changed when the car gets to 100,000km's. Usually they are changed just before the 80,000km's mark. Best to change it if you don't know if it has been done or not and since you got to 112,000km's, it be a good time to change it.

I got my parents to translate it for me as they are Chinese. Ok the Top (last bit) of the sentence translates to "Change of Timing Belt at"... 100,000km" Not sure what the middle sentence translates too as it is in Katakana (My parents can only read Kanji) The last sentence translates to "Timing Belt was changed at" (in you case) 63,155km's on the 12th Year and 4th Month. OK... Most timing belts in Japan would have been changed just before the 80,000 km's mark. More importantly is the year it was changed. (12th Year of the 4th Month) The Japanese year system is based on the emperor's reign. The Showa Period ended in 1988, so a 1989 build car is Heisei 1. If I have decoded this right, This year is 21 (1988 + 21 years = 2009) Your sticker says (12th Year) 1988 + 12 years = 2000 So it seems your Timing belt was changed in the year of 2000 in April.

LOL! Actually... Here is a pic of my friend Tim, SAU Member Tim GTR, R33 GTR Veilside Combat R with R34 GTR wheels. Weird was probably the wrong word to use... Lets just say I would picked another style of wheels before the R34 GTR ones anyway... IMO since the R33 is a lot rounder in shape then the R34, you need thick spoke wheels like Nismo's / Volk TE 37's / Veilside Evolution V or Work Meister's to top it off... It gives the car a very aggressive stance!

Hey man! Looks great! Are these Illustrator Pen / Paint Brush Tool drawings or you actually used the Stylus as you mentioned but said its not allowing you? Line 2: R30, R31, R32, R33, R34... GTR's yeah LOL! And could you do a 240Z. Thanks a lot!

Your timing belt was changed at 63,155 km's. The Chinese / Japanese character next to the 12 means (Year) and the Chinese / Japanese character next to the 4 mean (Month) So the timing belt was changed on the 12th Year of the 4th Month...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=foDcLUhUKqI...feature=related Lamborghini Countach LP500S.

had a quick go at it. Not perfect but you get an idea. Nismo LMGT4 wheels. Looks the best IMO, well certainly a lot better then BBS wheels (Damn I hate BBS wheels!) As for the R34 GTR wheels on a R33 GTR = Looks weird.

Yeah right... Thanks for that. One more thing, - Add additional windscreen washer chemical to the washer bottle, I've had experience where algae actually develops. I thought in order for algae to grow, it needs sunlight or any form of light, if it's under the bonnet, no light can get to it... True / False?

^^No LOL! Keep your stock BOV and leave it as that!

Don't worry about the HKS BOV. You got the HKS Air Pod on, it will already make a "Choo" noise. ^^ Yeah do what mr. kirisak said.

- Your battery will go flat if you do not turn the car on for that amount of time. Either disconnect it (personally recommend) or have a trickle charger - but not the best solution if there is no one watching over it. +1 Sounds good. - I also recommend having the hand brake in the down position and the car left in gear (if manual) or left in Park (auto), this will prevent the hand brake from "sticking" "Sticking..?" Haven't heard of that before? - Inflate the tires about 4psi harder than factory spec - this will prevent the tires getting temporary flat spots and by the time you get back they would have slowly deflated back to around factory spec. +1 A good idea. - Lift up the wipers - This will prevent the wipers from having a set. Never new about this? Does the rubber start to set / stick to the windscreens? - Change coolant and oil - fill towards the full mark. Stagnant coolant is not good. Having fresh oil will ensure it will flow properly once you return. Could you just top up the coolant and oil levels? - Add additional windscreen washer chemical to the washer bottle, I've had experience where algae actually develops. I thought in order for algae to grow, it needs sunlight or any form of light, if it's under the bonnet, no light can get to it... - Give the car a good wash and wax. +1 As you always do anyway hehe!! - Once you return make sure you warm up the car properly and drive it slow initially because all the fluids would have settled over this time. For sure.

There is a thread about this "Tuned R34 vs R35"... Anyway... Stock for stock the R35 GTR would win. I would say you would have to spend a bit to get the R34 GTR to win over the R35 GTR. The MCR R34 GTR in Japan was put to the test to race against a stock R35 GTR and the R34 won. The Mines replica would suite your setup as Mine's concentrate to get an over balance, not just outright power as you have said. To build a Mine's engine... http://209.85.173.132/translate_c?hl=en&am...fAdIWofBrP23rrg Stage I Price: 1,365,000 Yen Stage II Price: 1,890,000 Yen http://translate.google.com.au/translate?h...l%3Den%26sa%3DG Air Intake / Brakes /ECU / Exhaust / Radiator / Suspension / Aerodynamics. I the HOT 4's mag, Auto Style said the engine alone cost $65,000...

Check the Victoria Threads and Events Section.

"Need to JOIN a new SKYLINE CLUB in VIC!" Hah! You just did, you joined SAU. We always have cruise events. When you become a SAU VIC Member, it just allows you to gain access to more events.

Right... So its a... Hot Inzm Kai LOL! I believe (after translating on the internet...) It's a Battery Stabiliser... Quote from - http://www.honda-acura.net/forums/92-civic...stabilizer.html http://translate.google.com.au/translate?h...l%3Den%26sa%3DG "A capacitor should discharge more quickly than a battery. What happens is some of the charge is stored in a capacitor so the battery has to work less. I google translated the japanese webpage and they mention quicker starting time. But judging from the size of this box, the capacitor is probably not that big. When you think about how much current is discharged by a battery, the capacitor will probably have no effect. They are attempting to minimize the inrush current coming out of the battery from what I can see. Do they have a size on the capacitor? They also bring all the grounds to one point on the negative battery terminal. This is considered good grounding practice to minimize ground loops. The way autos are grounded now, the grounds could have different voltage levels." Iam guessing that's your Blue coloured cables... What's the thicker Red Cable? Does it hook up to the back of your engine? Or is it bolted against the fire wall or to something?

Any pics? I got 2 myself both in black.

b3za! Events Co-ordinator now ehy... I'm in as it's my BDAY on 8th May!

I would go RB20DET or RB25DET. I have a feeling it would be an easier conversion then fitting the Toyota engines in... I would go RB25DET if I was doing this project. A well balanced inline 6 with a nice over power range.

Yeah it was a joke LOL! I am just saying... Like when you said "haha.. iv never seen a p-plater with a GTR tho at the age of 18 yet has anyone else? ?"