(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

You should have a tyre plaquard on the side of your door trim. I am guessing anything between 30+ Psi or just under 40 Psi. I pump up 34Psi all round some times the front to 36 Psi.

Hah! Yeah thats true, gota point there. More of the same car out on the roads the more chance of those cars playing up I guess.

Hey! Nice PIG-VIA LOL! You drift it much? You got a RB25DET yet?

Get a Nissan Silvia Q Series. Engine: CA18DE or SR20DE, depending which year model.

^^LOL! WTF is that?! Burn out Pig...

I have not done it myself but here are some specs to give you an idea. I think it's going to be a big job... - http://www.nengun.com/hks/stroker-kit-niss...-28l-step-1-2-3 The HKS RB26DETT 2.8L kit is specially designed for Nissan's RB26DETT engine. This kit provides improvements in torque during low to medium speed as required in street driving . This kit also provides high horsepower output coupled with low frictional losses required for drag racing. Extensive testing was performed in HKS. HKS 2.8L Kit Step 1 Rated 441kW(600ps) Compression ratio (Gasket Size) * 8.70 (t=1.2mm) * 8.4 (t=1.6mm) * 8.1 (t=2.0mm) Parts Included - Forged piston kit - Fully forged & balanced counter crankshaft. -H cross section connecting rods. * To cylinder block and baffle plate et cetera Escaping processing becomes necessary. HKS 2.8L Kit Step 2 Rated 588kW(800ps) Compression ratio (Gasket Size) * 8.70 (t=1.2mm) * 8.4 (t=1.6mm) * 8.1 (t=2.0mm) - Forged piston kit (nickel plated & piston surface has a final molybdenum coating). - Fully forged & balanced counter crankshaft. -H cross section connecting rods. * To cylinder block and baffle plate et cetera Escaping processing becomes necessary. HKS 2.8L Kit Step 3 Rated 882kW(1200ps) Compression ratio (Gasket Size) * 8.70 (t=1.2mm) * 8.4 (t=1.6mm) * 8.1 (t=2.0mm) - Forged piston kit (nickel plated & piston surface has a final molybdenum coating). - Fully forged & balanced counter crankshaft. - H cross section connecting rods. * To cylinder block and baffle plate et cetera Escaping processing becomes necessary. PISTONS Piston material is specially forged to HKS specifications. This ensures high strength, durability, reliability, and produced to high dimensional accuracy. As a result, this forged piston enjoys tremendous weight savings, and a well balanced part. The piston crown has a balanced & symetrical concave section design which ensures higher engine response. Any larger concave section will result in a drop in compression ratio, and will affect engine response. To reduce abrasion resistance, and to improve performance, the top piston ring is titanium coated. In order to acheive an overall low piston height, piston design with two thin piston oil rings is adopted by HKS. This ensures minimum friction, and a low tension type piston. CONNECTION ROD With the use of high pressure forging for the material, the part does not requires much secondary operations except for the mating bearing surfaces. High tensile bolts are used to prevent cap opening during high inertial forces generated at high RPM loads. CRANKSHAFT The strength of the crankshaft is ensured when the metal fiber flow is not affected during the forging process. It is a full counter form, balanced to high tolerances where smooth revolutions are ensured. This results in loads being evenly distributed onto the metal surface, and reduces frictional loads. It is extremely light and strong compared to the factory item, and other aftermarket performance crankshaft available in the market The rigidity of the pin side is improved with the addition of a rib to the connecting rod pin. The crankshaft manufacturing process is completed with a special hardening process according to HKS specifications to ensure increased reliability at high RPM loads, and reduce fatigue.

Found a GTR Turbo chart. Might help you decide.

Yeah you got a point. Family friend of mine works for the RACV Road Side Service. Number one car to call out to fix is Holden, things like the key in the ignition will not start, electrical faults with the central locking and alarm system. Secondly, Ford is on the list of problems.

^ Yes! PM members for experience with car dealers as ppl have PM me as well in the past.

LOL! What you expect on a "Aussie Car" Forum... Any car is unreliable without the right maintenance. It just depends on which car cost more to fix, which will add to your cost. Depending on what year model the Skyline and Supra you get, remember some are over 10 - 15 years old, unless the car has remained stock standard and very well maintained for its whole life, things are going to be in need of change sooner or later.

Yes you need to attach / bolt it on the AFM. +1 Thanks for that.

Hehe! Yep. True, I know the stock GTR BOV can handle over 300kW if not a bit more with no problems.

^^ You got any pics?

Yeah cool! Be good to see ya R32 and everyone else. I'm still in for Saturday.

^Yes thats right. The oil must settle 1st. If you read the oil dip stick while the engine is running, oil pressure will build up and again, oil will be all over the dip stick and you wont get s correct reading.

Thats about right. Since you took it to the GOR for a good (or I should say Spirited...) run, you would have been giving it full throttle majority of times... More fuel = Need more air to equal out the Air/Fuel mixture.

The adapter..? You mean that piece of piping where you pod is hose clamped onto and then bolts on to the Air Flow Metre? Are you talking about the silver piping as shown in the pic? That pic is from the Nengun Website. - http://www.nengun.com/apexi/power-intake-gtr They come in as a whole kit, but you just pay more thats all. You also might be able to source a universal adapter at Auto Barn / Super Cheap Autos, as long as it fits your air pod and be able to bolt on to your Air Flow Metre. Just make sure the diametre of the adapter is the right size. You don't want to restrict the air flow.

Put some spacers in behind the wheel give a bit more clearance and avoid scraping. Hehe!!

Auto Barn / Super Cheap Autos would be your best bet. 3A Racing, Autotecnica, DR/FT and Monza, if you are looking for cheap brands.

Yeah I see. I searched on the internet and there is a place down Port Melbourne where they have tracks to race all sorts of RC Cars. Yeah I thought about going for some other "Cheaper" brand RC Cars, but I know everything with Tamiya will be built at a very good quality and you will be safe with them. The wheels I bought were HPI brand and the new tyres are some other "Made In Japan" brand... Petrol cars ehy? LOL! Drift it to the servo and fill up then walk into and pay... "Thats $1 thanks..." My FMIC is just a print out and stuck on. Next body shell is probably a 180SX, R32, R34 or RX7 FD Wide body or something totally different and looking at building a Submarine and set it off with my dad as he is into RC Sail Boats as he's got two. One is purely wind powered and the other is wind and electric motorised.

A slight reminder, shit talking any business on SAU is not really acceptable. Carizma - Richmond (Speak to David as he is a SAU Member) SSV - Huntingdale Kamikaze Motors - Nunawading Yes I have looked and test drove cars at JSA and GTA... Members response on here are quite spot on.

Looks mutha faken TUFF as! I like what you did with the front guards, there is also a Gun Metal Grey R32 GTS-T in Japan that did the similar thing, looks awesome.

^+1 Yes what Sheriff Wan said. If you check it after the car has been driven / warmed up, the oil level will not be accurate. Check it first thing in the morning is the best, so a cold engine.

The good old BOV question... Just leave your stock BOV. Aftermarket ones do F**K all but just make noise. Replace you stock air box with an Air Pod Filter if you want a "Choo" noise.

Yeah! Why don't you Vinyl Wrap your car..? Looks nice with a Satin finish. Foiling is a first time I have ever heard of and finally seeing some pics, thanks to ~Hypnotik~, it actually looks good. But done correctly tho, other wise it looks kinda "Tarty"...