bigmikespec

Wow, that red R33 GTR is stunning (car no. 819) is that a geniune Nismo 400R?

Modified GT3540 with Variable Vane Geometry

If you can push it in with your hand it is no good. What type of polyurethane bushes do you have? I would love someone on here to confirm 100% whether you need to remove those sleeves in the control arms (or leave them in) when installing new bushes like Whiteline or Superpro. Mike

I don't think anyone can deny that the R35 GTR is a brilliant and well engineered car. It is amazing how something that is heavier and less powerful than other cars in its category yet be faster around a track. However, I think the weight is one area that is a bit of a let down. Imagine if it was 200kg lighter, how much better it would/could be? It may be the difference between a really good car and a great car. Considering they changed every single aspect of the new GTR compared to the others, why didn't they just make it a two seater and apply some extra engineering in making it lighter. If big fat Americans can get their C6 ZR1 down to around 1500kg why can't the light footed Japanese do the same. Anyway, my 2c. PS: so I am not totally OT, congrats to T. Quinn and his GTR!

If your mate is letting you drive his GTR he is as thick as two boards. Two things you never lend to your mates... you car and your women. Because they will f**k your car and f**k your woman! That was the advice I was given by a family elder, haha.

Just looking at the head work (awesome) and noticed no combustion chamber mods? Or not yet?

Locally made... from Chinese parts? Sorry, cheap shot but could not help it. I wonder what Billet Turbochargers could do in terms of a rebuilt to a "higher spec" with their fancy bearings and range of billet wheels.

I remember in a very old HPi mag when I was just a dreamer that one of my favourite cars was a Top Secret R34 GTR time attack/circuit car which retained the standard capacity with a T78-33d and I just thought it was wicked! Sorry, no real advice, get a T78-29d they sound crazy and should not be too bad in terms of getting onto boost depending on the rest of your set up. Mike PS: then take me for a spin so I can feel how cool it is and then I will get one too

It would be interesting to see if Holset and/or Borgwarner have an options for the replacement of the OEM RB26 turbos like Garrett has with its 2560's. If they did I would definitely be interested, it seems that there are more offerings in a single format. Does anyone else know? Mike

What cams with the big $$$ head, or is that a secret? Also, sticking with the Blitz K5-660R, staying with a good thing. Do Blitz have a split pulse option on their housings? Sounds exciting, 1.5mm oversize valves!!!

+1 on developing mania from working on GTR's, I am about as ham fisted as they come too. I sure as hell hope the rewarding feeling from doing all the work yourself is frickin' worth it... like 1000 orgasms all at once!

I agree mate, totally, when I get to upgrade turbos etc. no BOV's for me either, not necessary at all to have them performance wise (in my opinion). Just pointing out to gotRICE? about his hurricanes being just air (no offence to gotRICE?).

Air doesn't break stuff, air under pressure might.

FYI, there is a company in Melbourne that can do plasmo coatings with a laser (i.e. tungsten carbide coating) instead of using a superheated inert gas. Personally it would make me nervous having anything that was coated/plated, I have horrible visions of bits flaking off, the coating is only as good as its ability to adhere to the original material.

"Aussie" cars like the Holden Commodore are awesome... Made in China, assembled in Elizabeth SA.

Is that on 98? Add E85, could there be more to be gained?

Working backwards 445hp is about 335kW, does that not seem low with -5's?

Get your $900 and buy Australian made, good on ya!

There are two lower ball joints on each side at the front (below). You may be thinking of the pivot bearing that the front hubs locate on, of which there is one on each side.

For someone like me who is hoping to do a build like this in the future this thread is brilliant. And talk about top shelf parts, Asume exhaust, Tomei dumps and manifolds, Quaife front diff... the best of everything, seriously good work!

Have a look at the Border front fendors, the carbon ones with gills, that will give you a semi. Copying a Z-tune seems a bit try-hard-ish. Mike

Dude, do it yourself it is so easy. I removed the HICAS steering rack tonight about an hour ago. Use a 30mm spanner to crack the joint once you pull away the rubber boot. A regular 30mm spanner may be too wide to get it over the joint but don't lose hope, find a cheapy and give it some grinder love. Mike

The A-LSD uses the ATESSA pump however it has its own solenoid which sends pressure to lock the diff. It would be piss easy to override electrically and lock it all the time via switch, however, I do not really want to do that. Plain and simple mech diff would be sweet.

For those who would like to know, I ended up grinding the height down on an old 7/8" ring spanner so I could get it on under the driveshaft and over the 22mm nut (7/8" close enough to 22mm). WINNER!

Hey guys, I am in the middle of upgrading my suspension on my GTR. So far I have removed all the suspension arms ready to be sand blasted, painted and have the old bushe pushed out and the new ones pressed in, all except the rear lower A-arm. I can not for the life of me get to the nut that retains the rear hub on the A-arm. I can barely get an open ended spanner around it, have a look at the photos. Photos might be a bit crappy but I think it is obvious what the issue is. If someone could point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated! Mike