KiwiRS4T

Blowby is too much when you blow the dipstick out and/or you have oil shooting out of the top of the engine. Have you done a compression test and/or leakdown test? If they are miles out you need to rebuild the motor. To alleviate the symptoms you should have picked up from your reading of particularly the latter section of the thread that your restrictor is too big and that the best way to relieve crankcase pressure is with a vent as high as possible in the inlet side of the sump - preferably going to a catch can. I have two x 20mm hoses from the sump in my RB30 - one to the top of the catch can and the other to the bottom (acts as a return for when oil is blown out). My catch can doesn't have a breather filter it has a large hose going to the air intake. The problem usually only happens after long bursts at WOT (so on the track).

One used RB26 BOV (had two but one left). Great upgrade for RB25DET - much more robust construction and they bolt straight up to the same flange in the stock position (only the outlet is larger so needs to be stepped down to be plumbed back). $55 includes postage to anywhere in Australia. Please PM if interested

Never use them, extra weight, water leak potential...

Pity you're not closer - I have two sunroofs I don't want - could just cut the whole roof off and swap with you!

Either use the search function or Google which will often refer back to this forum. All of your questions have been answered at length many times.

How far does the clutch pedal come off the floor before it begins to bite?

I read he was planning to ditch the CAS!

I have a Tomei steel head gasket. the advantage is I have been able to remove the head and replace it twice using the same gasket. I see no reason why cheaper ones shouldn't be perfectly satisfactory though.

If you can't be bothered reading the whole thread just read the first few and last few pages:http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/?hl=sk%20oil%20control

A 3076 will fit on the stock manifold with a 10mm spacer and get you 300kw (or more with E85). You don't want much more power with stock internals.

Please do report what you find - I have a diff swap planned and would like to know how you get on!

One sold - one left for sale - free postage to anywhere in Australia $60

You may be able to get away with just running a tap through otherwise you need something like a helicoil. Ring your local mobile mechanics for some prices.

Another tip - look in the Stagea section - lots of info for you there: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/forum/82-stagea-discussion/

Photos are not much help. Is the boost solenoid being used? If so it should have another hose coming off the top. By all means replace the dodgy hose and if that doesn't fix it look for boost leaks - coil packs are next!

Pretty straight forward - as above the only fiddly bit is the sump adapter - some drilling and grinding involved - see the RB30 section for suppliers of adapters. Lower gearbox bolts you can fill, redrill and tap or like me just leave them out. Here's an adapter kit (or you can get one from Rips or there are other Aussie suppliers): http://www.spoolimports.com/rb30-awd-adaptor-kit

OK done

Location is Auckland NZ - postage is free.

I have a pair of RB26 GTR bovs still mounted on the joining pipe for $120 posted anywhere in Australia or $60 each posted. Great upgrade for RB25DET - much more robust construction and they bolt stright up to the same flange in the stock position (only the outlet is larger so needs to be stepped down to be plumbed back).

You don't say what engine you have but have you read the 400kw thread? Right turbo(s) more important than cams at that level.

$36 buys 6 - in fact I just got 6 for $30 but yours are still cheaper.

Personally I would set both cam gears to zero and let the tuner take it from there.

Like this: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/core-engine/auction-600858264.htm

You sure about that Duncan? You have written 34GTR front diff doesn't fit in the 33/34 casing - surely it will fit in the 34 casing? I have an R34GTR front diff waiting to go in my R33 sump and have just been looking out for an R34 non V spec rear diff to go with it - I know some R34 GTRs over here have put R33 diffs front and rear to lower the gearing so I have always assumed that the reverse was possible.

No and no