KiwiRS4T

Change the rims or roll the guards. Do not use camber changes to solve your problem.

Drive around with it unplugged for a while and see if it makes a difference.

Why do you want to do it?

S2 may be different but when I got the G4 ecu for my S1 installer had to make a feed from the TPS I think for the attessa

Yep - just check the plug but should be fine.

Thanks for that Guilt Toy - so much better than " I have an xyz ecu and its the greatest" - without any substantiation.

Cam timing needs to be done on a dyno. You can do it by the charts etc but it is best done by an experienced tuner using trial and error - i.e. making small adjustmnts and measuring the result.

No the regulator is at the end of the rail thus pressurising the rail. Its possible yours is plumbed wrongly. Have you pulled off a hose and turned on the pump to confirm where the fuel is coming from? Maybe you are returning fuel via the filter! Does your car run properly??!

On the S1 ( I still have stock set-up) the fuel system goes like this: The hard pipe goes to a fuel filter mounted in the engine bay near the RH strut tower and a rubber hose goes to the back (firewall) end of the fuel rail. There is a fuel regulator (still using the stocker) at the front end of the fuel rail and a rubber hose goes from there to a damper mounted just behind the filter and the return goes from there to the tank.

I am sure a number of diffs would fit in the stock casing but I have a complete R32 GTR diff and axles. Have a read of this (but be aware you probably have a 4.083 diff) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/76427-out-goes-the-stagea-diff-in-goes-the-gtr-diff/ A new Nismo LSD should go straight in but other Nissan diffs ahould fit.

You can check the compression ratio by pulling out spark plug and measuring the amount of fluid a cylinder holds at TDC compared to BDC.

Yep R32 R33 R34 seats bolt straight in. I had to modify the base to get my Recaros in.

That's what I am going to do. However there is so little coming out of the cam covers now that I will plumb them direct to the second catch can and leave the first one just for the two lines from the sump (and breather to the second catch can).

What do you mean by equalising pressure from the sump? I have two lines coming from the sump into a catch can to relieve the pressure in the sump and as Scotty says I get oil vapour coming out the breather so I have got a second, baffled catch can (or a proper oil/air seperator would be good) to take a line from where the breather was on the primary catch can and I will plumb the second one into my intake.

Yep I fitted a couple of Recaros from a Euro Honda or something - more comfortable than a race seat for my daily driver but heaps more control on the track. In this country (don't know about UK) if you fit a harness you have to be a member of a car club, run a log book etc.

Don't recognise the part number but on a previous Stagea I got a thicker "stock" type from Natrad and it was fine. About to do it again. The radiator shop should have a book that shows the layout of hoses etc but if you specify to the place you are buying it from that its to go in your Stagea they should be able to sell you something that is fit for the pupose.

Some Z32, GTR and GTS4 axles are interchangeable but watch out for small (and not so small) differences in length (and watch abs sensors).

Do some searching - there are heaps of threads on this. Best bang for buck something like Hypergear. If you get a big enough turbo you are going to need thousands of $$$ supporting gear and then better brakes, suspension etc.

R34 crank is fine. Extended sump + baffles good idea. If you do the above you can hold the oil cooler and see if it becomes necessary - easy to fit later. N1 pump - suggest a set of Reimax gears with carefull assembly (recent local failure - haven't got to the bottom of it yet). If you are reboring the block and it will be thoroughly cleaned drill out and relieve the oil returns. Maybe get some feedback from other RB26 owners re oil restrictors.

Should be in the for sale section! Pretty sure S1 and S2 (R33 and R34) are different - which have you got?

Flash spreadsheet means nothing if the flywheel figure is a guess. I take it the engine has not been pulled out and put on a bench dyno each time ?

I would be pretty confident that no one is making carbon panels. The group buy ones will do the job.

Block of wood and a jack

What are you using the car for - street, circuit, drag, drifting? Is it going to be experiencing long periods of WOT?

All RB flywheels have 6 bolts holding them to the crank - the difference is in the number of bolts holding the clutch cover (pressure plate) on. To quote Kudos Motorsport: All R31/32/33 RB20/25/26 cranks use a 6 bolt flywheel to crank configuration, and the following pressure plate to flywheel: •RB20E, RB20ET & RB20DE (225mm Clutch Disc) - 6 Bolt •RB25DE & RB25DET (240mm Clutch Disc) - 9 Bolt •R32 RB26DETT (240mm Clutch Disc) - 9 Bolt •R33 RB26DETT (250mm Clutch Disc) - 9 Bolt