KiwiRS4T

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbotech-manual-turbo-boost-controller-THE-ORIGINAL-/220798194994?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3368991532

Fuel pump on way out?

I think its more the other way round - most are untunable. I have heard of people claiming to have one that could be tuned but I have never seen one.

You can get manifolds with lots of takeoffs for various vacuum functions so you don't have to turn the plasmaman into a colendar. Like this (some screw into the plenum some are just connected with a hose): http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ADD-Universal-Vacuum-Manifold-turbo-boost-vacuum-wastegate-intake-manifold-/110993986088?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d7c1d228 And don't most people just bin the carbon canister?

No the R33 actuator is controlled by the 7lb spring. With any actuator it will free boost if you pull the hose right off. You can make 10psi with your R33 actuator (if that's what it turns out to be) by installing a T in the line and running a bleed off to the bov return pipe as in the pic below. You need to restrict the bleed line to the bov return until you get the desired boost level.

You have to use the stock ecu to run the auto and add a piggyback such as Greddy Emanage or HKS F-Con. Just bite the bullet and get a GTR box !

Don't do facebook but sounds like an excellent project!

The button on the dash will lock in 50/50 split on the awd from take off. Once you get up to speed the attessa computer takes over again and directs just 5% to the front wheels unless the rears lose traction. It is common to bypass the solenoid to increase boost but ripping out all the hoses is not the way to go. There should be at least a hose coming from a boost source (usually the pipe leading from the turbo to the intercooler) and going to the waste gate actuator on the turbo often with an adjustable T (or a fixed venturi T) that bleeds boost pressure off to the bov return pipe (can be hard to see). To return to standard you need the boost line going to the solenoid and from the solenoid to the w/g actuator with the bleed line going to the bov return pipe.[ You can tell which ports to use on the solenoid by using a pipe to blow through it with the engine off. Put the boost line on the one you are blowing through and the one where the air comes out goes to the w/g actuator. The other port is the bleed to the bov return pipe.] Hmm just realised its a while since I saw a stock solenoid so the last three sentences (now struck out) could be wrong. If the solenoid has only 2 ports then the boost source goes to the top port and the bottom port goes to a fixed T going left to the bov return pipe and right to the w/g actuator. There is a restrictor in there somewhere can't remember just where. I don't have a pic of the stock set up and my car is not stock so I can't take a pic but below is the bypass set up. On the left you can see the boost source on the intercooler pipe. It leads to a plain T which branches left (the bleed to the bov return pipe which is not visible) and right to the w/g actuator. Are you able to phone the guy you bought it from and ask him? It is unlikely he was running it with unlimited boost.

For some reason to do with import regs almost all Australian imports are of turboed Stageas whereas in NZ the big majority are n/a like the Rips car was when he bought it.

If you have a stuffed coil chances are the others will not be far behind - get a new set and don't keep old ones for a "spare".

Why? The only real difference is your heater will start working a bit quicker.

Will take mine as soon as its legal but no chance of being the fastest Stagea in NZ now (well I was only aiming to make 12s at this point anyway....)

For those who haven't been following RIPS Stagea build Robbie's first run was in the 9's. This car started out as an N/A awd but has been "heavily" modified: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/417305-rips-mgawot/

Ignore the solenoid for the moment (disconnect the wiring if you like or not). . Run a pipe from the boost source (intercooler pipe will do since it has a nipple you can use) directly to the actuator. Secure the pipe so that it won't blow off. Block off the line that is going to the bov return pipe. You should be making around 10 psi.

3.5in will be good. One muffler will be loud.

Google! The US seems to call them butterfly valves

Here's some purpose made fuel coolers: http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/fuel-coolers or you could just use an aftermarket trans fluid cooler from Supercheap etc.

Wow!

Don't bother. There is no evidence that they do any good. More important is restrictors, relieving / boring out existing drains, sump breathers to catch can, oil air seperator from cam covers, mines cam cover baffles. Its not increased boost levels that does it anyway - its just sustained high revs at wot. Ideally if you are not spewing out litres of oil your cam cover breathers should go through an oil air seperator and into the intake.

It may be a manual conversion - certainly doesn't look like my old auto shift - although I can't see a handbrake....it is fuel injected and the n/a means not applicable.The IL4 is probably a mistake.

I assumed the rain was getting in somewhere and was looking for the drains from the sunroof(s) but the recent spell of hot weather alerted me to another cause - there was no water under the car from the aircond so I assume that the drain is blocked or mis-aligned and that is what is causing it. Will check it out on the weekend. (A leaking heater radiator normally results in not just water in the foot wells but also steamed up front screen)

The plate shown is the Low Volume engineering certificate for the mods and I guess it means inline engine 4 wheel drive.

Good work! Def put the surge tank under the car - mines inside and even with a metal case insulated inside and out its noisy as (no petrol smells though).

Martinique: French-speaking island that lies just north of Saint Lucia and Barbados and further south than Puerto Rico or Jamaica.

Sounds like you haven't connected a boost source to your controller. Take a pic or draw a diagram to show how you have connected it.