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KiwiRS4T

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Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. Maybe the alternator? Don't know about the R31 but most Nissans have a big fusebox with fuses and circuit breakers under the bonnet near the battery.
  2. Don't worry about it - it has no effect on the tune.
  3. Better to Nistune the ecu and get a window switch to run the vct.
  4. I have an RB30/25 in a heavy Stagea (280awkw atm) but it pulls fine from 1000 rpm - as my exhaust is quite noisy I drive around town changing up at just under 2000rpm. When I say it pulls fine it keeps up with the traffic but if I want to outdrag the Holden or Evo next to me at the lights I have to give it a bootfull of revs to launch it so I tend not to!
  5. Two or three guys round here have just blown third gear (2 GTRs and one 2wd) with not much more than stock power but all hammered on the track. In every case they have looked at the cost of repair and gone for a second hand box which i would guess is not a permanent fix. I would say at the power levels you are looking at you need to start saving for a stronger gear set.
  6. Good idea - I am going 3.545 in my heavy Stagea... with your R32 and RB30 3.8 should be a breeze.
  7. search or Google "rich and retard"
  8. Someone else will know for sure but I don't think you can run with your front half shafts out.
  9. Google it and it will tell you how to make one or pay a workshop an hour's labour to do it for you.
  10. Yes to the bigger sump. There is no evidence that the "head drain" actually does anything. If you are still at the building stage drill out and relieve the oil returns and drill and tap one or more holes as high as possible for sump breathers (running to a catch can, not the head. 8,500 is a lot for an RB30 - they can be made to rev to 10,000 but even at 8500 you will need a quality damper and everything well blueprinted and balanced.
  11. I think that's M35 speak for drill out the banjo on the oil supply line to the turbo for increased flow and hopefully longer turbo life.
  12. More modern - more capacity - more features - continual development
  13. Listen to the advice. Do a leakdown test.
  14. And i have 2 x 1.0mm in my RB30 with an N1 pump (hydraulic lifters and vct).
  15. D2s are so far as i know an exact knock off of the AP brakes. I have a set of 8pot 330mm on my 1800kg Stagea and they are great on the track. A set of 360 D2s would be fine for you - ref the group buy.
  16. Read the PDF in the first post: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/ It can be done for under $5000 (300kw 6800rpm)or you can spend $20K or more...600+kw 10,000rpm Consider buying something finished to any stage you want from Rips: http://www.ripsltd.com/products.html
  17. A driveshaft shop should be able to machine out the old universals and fit new ones with circlips and balance the shaft. if you want another shaft and can't source one locally i have a couple of spares. Stagea GTS4 and GTR are all the same.
  18. Hey do you want to tell us what cat that was (or PM me if you don't want to bag them publicly).
  19. What you need is aftermarket (100 cell) cat with 3in exhaust.
  20. If nothing happens when you turn the key it won't be the CAS. Get a new mechanic.
  21. Stageas are gas guzzlers and expensive to repair if you crash. Get an economical common car and learn how to service it. The knowledge will come in handy when you graduate to a Stagea!!
  22. You should have paid the $1000 and kept the Corona.
  23. Don't say its not the battery - needs 300 amps to turn over so check connections and try a jump start before you rule it out.
  24. I want maximum flow so I have what is essentially a noisy system but drive round normally with a "silencer" which makes it a bit more acceptable noise wise but probably costs 10% of the power. I take it out for tuning and on the track.
  25. What do you mean by "won't crank over"? Nothing happens when you turn the key? Can you hear the solenoid click when you turn the key? Check the battery terminals for tightness and cleanlines. Check the earth strap. Check the lead down to the starter motor. Use a test light to check the main fuses in the engine bay. Ignition switches sometimes pack up. Won't be the coils or CAS if the engine won't even turn over.
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