KiwiRS4T

I believe a stock twin core radiator with the stock fan and shroud is best. I am tracking my car with the original cooling system apart from an allegedly higher flowing thermostat and will be upgrading just to a thicker stock type radiator. Alternatively you could just take it to a radiator shop to replace the top tank and properly clean out your core... reverse flushing won't always suffice.

Is it viscous or mechanical? You may be able to shim it or just look for a good second hand unit if you don't want to pay for a new unit ( save the money towards your new GTR)

What city do you live in? Can you PM me the name of the workshop?

Dunno - probably - I have non Brembo GTR brakes including the backing plate on my rears. When I had the GTT ones I just trimmed the backing plate.

Nice car. Save up for some quality 265s or 275s.

Excellent result! Would be interesting to see what kind of 1/4 mile time that translates to (if you have the opportunity).

If they are the same as GTT brakes: calipers, pads. rotors. Need to trim the backing plate. You may need to pull the olives out of the calipers to convert to banjo fittings for the brake lines or vice versa.

Try them and see!!

Good news!

A lot of joints are not made to be seviceable such as the front driveshaft universals but shops can machine them out and put new joints in.

I want one (Racepace)! 3.5in and quiet would be great. Pity its too far away.

I would guess that you would want pistons to give you higher compression with the extra capacity of the 3400cc but you can't guess - you need to measure What oil pump are you going to use?

Is it an awd car? Are all your tyres the same size and type? Tried turning left and right and listening for wheel bearings? Jack the car up and have a look? Wheels binding (foot or handbrake)?

ALL SOLD THANKS!!!

SOLD THANKS!!

Sold pending payment.

I have a couple of used RB26 BOVs - good replacement for faulty RB25 items AU$45 each posted free or AU$80 for both. These bolt straight to the RB25 flange but the outlet is bigger - 40mm OD. Construction is much more robust with brass inserts. Pics tonight or tomorrow.

I have a couple of used RB26 BOVs - good replacement for faulty RB25 items AU$45 each posted free or AU$80 for both. These bolt straight to the RB25 flange but the outlet is bigger - 40mm OD. Construction is much more robust with brass inserts. Pics tonight or tomorrow.

It is not as easy as R32 because you have to reset it every time you start the car but it is easier than pulling the driveshaft. But importantly for the OP this will not make a GTR box change into 2wd if it is installed in a car that does not have this kind (or any kind ) of Attessa (the plug will not exist for a start):

If you don't want to change your turbos then its just a matter of tuning to get as near as possible to the result you want. I would guess cams should stay stock but timing would need adjusting via the two adjustable gears (that's what they're for!) Seems like you are in the same town as Status tuning so give them a ring and make an apointment - be prepared to spend around $1000 more or less for a decent tune.

Its not the gearbox that you have to worry about. Its the Atessa - its as easy as pulling a fuse with the R32 more complicated with the R33, 34.

Where do you live? Experienced RB skilled tuner is a must.

Turn the boost down and drive it gently till its fixed or you could be looking at a new engine. Take the car to a tuner and get him to have a look at the Mines ecu to see if its tunable (most are not). If not buy a stock R34 auto ecu and get a Nistune chip put in it. Get some Neo friendly injectors 550 or better. Look in the tank and see if you have a new fuel pump. If not, buy one and install it if you can or if not add it to the injectors. You will need a genuine Z32 afm (and plug) if you haven't already got one. Ask around and find a good tuner (in another town if necessary) and hand him all the bits (or install the bits and tow the car to the tuner) and get it tuned (point out, although he should notice, that the FPR needs adjusting). If nothing has been damaged it should go well. In the meantime baby the car - no mega boosting, no skids etc.

I doubt that its the PFC and AFMs although if you have money to burn by all means get a Link! I have been told by lots of people (see also Guilt Toy) including my local RB guru that adjusting the cam timing is critical on the RB30s and that dramatic improvements are to be had. That is why I too will be spending about $1000 on a comprehensive tune by a very respected tuner who knows RBs backwards and I am confident of a good result. he won't be using a degree card as he has done this many many times. If your tuner is good and you are prepared to give them the time I am sure you will get an improvement - whether it is enough to get it to where you want with the low down torque remains to be seen. What was the max kw that you were seeing?