KiwiRS4T

If you plan to have dedicated track rims then biggest is not necessarily best. I have 17 x 9 TE37s on my car but for the track Ihave some 17 x 8.5in rims which are the ideal size for the ex NZV8 slicks that I use because they are far better than the semi-slicks I ran before (mind you I have awd).

Have you tried Race Brakes? http://www.racebrakessydney.com.au/disc_rotors.html

Minimum is 255 ideal is 265/275 yes you will likely have to modify your guards (depending on what suspension you have).

In NZ the regs state measurement is from body/chassis so exhaust and kits can be lower than 100mm. Actually you can drop the whole car lower than 100mm if you can get an engineer to certify that its safe.

Anyone got a titanium system? I've spent so much money on my exhaust I could have bought one. But do they sound nasty? I'm either going to get a complete custom made one or get something like an HKS silent power (I want a 3 1/2 in system but they are quite hard to come by which is why I am considering a custom made job).

Probably not related. I moved my boost source from the vacuum manifold to the top of the compressor housing on the turbo. You don't really want vacuum in that line.

Maltech has made some and should have the patterns. http://www.maltech.com.au/home.html

Are you using stock sized pistons or have you had a rebore to the next size?

If it is blocked off and your cam covers run to a catch can which is vented to atmosphere then there is no scavenging effect on the crankcase/cam covers.

Yes. Actually you don't need a pcv valve - its just a one way valve and you won't be getting any pressure from the turbo intake so a simple straight through fitting will do. TBH mine is blocked off as it comes from the top of the cam cover (an RB25DET item) very near to the breather pipe and so serves no discernable purpose in my present set up.

If you can get 25psi with a bleed valve then the actuators are not the problem. Either the boost controller is hooked up wrongly or it is faulty.

Just run the pcv into a T on one of the other lines. I have a slightly more complicated set up with breathers coming from the sump and two catch cans to try to catch most (hopefully all) of the oil and then replace the catch can breather with a line to the turbo intake (breather on first catch can will go into the second catch can).

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It probably does work but it is definitely the hard way!! It would be easier just to drop the front shaft but the method as described by Tom above is in the manual and I have done it successfully as have many others and (like others) I have put a switch in the circuit to make it even easier.

Ironically although I now sell crank collars I don't have one in my RB30 and I do have an N1 pump (10,000km so far). I am not planning to pull the motor out until I can afford a rebore with forged pistons full balance etc and then I will do the crank collar and assuming the pump is still in one piece (I don't limiter bash) I will put some aftermarket gears in it.

Yanks use a "scattershield" or a steel bellhousing to protect drivers at drags. If you buy a Nismo twin plate or similar you get a better flywheel with the package. Not just for big V8s: http://jalopnik.com/5502903/video-honda-crx-grenades-entire-nose-in-wild-clutch-explosion

They are not the same. Here's a set for $200 (you can use your current springs if you prefer) http://www.trademe.c...n-525713324.htm If you want brand new I don't think you'll do much better than $150 each. The job is fairly easy so long as you don't rush and are sensible. I didn't have spring compressors I used wire ties but spring compressors are easier and you can hire them (or maybe borrow from an SDU member in Christchurch). Sorry I'm too far away to lend a hand.

So is Elite so that figures.

Don't be a wuss - rip out all of the power steering components!

Checked brake pistons? Pads wearing evenly? Have you got adjustable castor arms? Road camber will tend to make you drift to the left a lttle - you can run 1/4 to 1/2 deg more camber on the left to compensate. (BTW check the rear brakes for dragging as well)

Let me guess... you are going to put some puny undersized tyres on as well! You should have at least 275 or 285s. You will need more than a guard roll you need extensions welded on (or buy some more realistic sized rims).

Good project for someone to build an RB30! (BTW this should probably be in the cars or parts for sale section)

I'm using the one out of my auto in my R33GTR box. I believe R32 is mechanical and requires some conversion? I also have a speedo corrector kit.

If you have a S1 stagea motor the ecu will be no good to you as it can't be Nistuned. Look for an R33 loom and then you can fit a Z32 ecu to Nistune or put a Link or Vipec in the R33 case. Trick wire to look for: the one from TPS to Atessa.

Ex NZV8 17in slicks I think it was 2001 - came from Possum Bourne Motorsports (was in storage for 10 years and has only done a genuine 10,000km) and has only mild mods - chipped or tuned ecu, better brakes and semislicks -