KiwiRS4T

Checked with Link and they reckon the G4 plugin I have will be fine.

So these would be worth a try on my RB30/25 aiming at 330 - 350 awkw with a rev limit of 6800 and no flat shifting or would I need to change my Link G4 with 4 ignition channels for a Link Extreme to allow sequential firing?

Stock Stagea just get the DW200 (NZ $158.95 = AU$127 + postage) which is similar to the old Walbro. I have had a Walbro in my tank for three years now (just a lift pump now) but it ran my GCG highflow up to 240awkw and 260 when directly wired. http://www.trademe.c...n-516957124.htm

In AU$ even with freight I am sure NZ$220 would be a good price. The seller is a solid company I have used many times: http://www.trademe.c...n-517280992.htm

Try Google - it gives a lot of results such as: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/268118-r34-gt-t-clutch-install-guide/

You don't need to change your rims - you are quite undertyred now. I have 255 40 17 on my 9in rims. You could easily run up to 275s on your 9.5in rims If you already have braided brakes lines new Motul RBf600 brake fluid and a mastercylinder stopper will help and make sure you have some good pads.

?? I have cupholders and whatnot in my S1 (not an Autech though). Is the S2 that different? My sensor is to the left of the handbrake about 180mm behind the gear lever.

Certainly look like great value for money - any potential downside?

Fuel pump, Nistune fitted and properly tuned.

As for turbo the Precision thread gets more interesting by the day!

You can't turn your boost down below what the actuators are set at but you don't need to - you can keep boost down by moderating your right foot.

Take a look at this one: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/engines/auction-516725741.htm

Pretty sure this would suffice ..the lift pump is not working against turbo pressure and will easily deliver enough fuel to the surge tank: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/fuel-systems/auction-516957124.htm here is the other one if you prefer: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/fuel-systems/auction-517719331.htm

Its not a slipping clutch that would cause a problem but lack of disengagement. If you are sitting at rest in gear and you let the pedal up slowly does it bite very early or come up quite a way? If it bites too early check for fluid levels and leaks. If its ok most probably your synchros are worn.

No there is a seal - drove around like that for a couple of weeks no problem

http://www.trademe.c...n-517280992.htm or for $10 less http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/fuel-systems/auction-516680317.htm

Looks very expensive.

I've had a Walbro in my tank for about 4 years. I have a 044 as well - haven't heard anything bad about them except they're noisy as!!

Engine is an RB30 so should be fine. The head is just a part and anyway who is going to know if its a 1991 head or a 1997 head?

In NZ there is a website with authorised certifiers. You could try working backwards by asking the relevant authority (transport department - whatever it is called over your way [VicRoads evidently] and ask if they have a list of people authorised to "engineer" mods.This may be what you need - if you look on this page there is a pdf listing VASS signatories - give your nearest one a ring and tell him what you want and he should be able to tell you if he is the person you should be referring to: http://www.vicroads....atoryScheme.htm

Heat range, Were they for your 25DET or for your DE? 6 would be better for relatively stock DET and 5 for DE

They are the same plug but -11 are pregapped. You may as well gap them to 0.8mm as the bigger gap won't gain you anything.

Get some coppers BCPR6ES gapped to 0.8mm

20s are too big.

Very hard to get any objective results. I like the OEM (brand new) because they have been proven to last 10 - 15 years! Splitfires have built up a reasonable record by now. The Yellow jackets have stood up well on the dyno and on the track. Some of the others have failed relatively early in life. The test is not whether one makes more power than another - they are just coils after all - but how reliable they are.