KiwiRS4T

I don't think so. I am currently running one catch can for the sump breather and the cam cover breathers. By now there is pretty much nothing coming out of the cam cover breathers but the breather/filter for the catch can at WOT exudes some oily mist (just nuisance value) so my plan is to run just the sump to one catch can and run the breather from that and the cam cover breathers to a second catch can set up as an air oil seperator and either vent that one to atmosphere or preferably vent the second one (assuming there's virtually no oil coming out of it) to the turbo intake pipe.

I wouldn't bother with the so-called head drain to sump. No-=one has been able to show that it drains any oil. Better to run a breather from the sump to a catch can. My RB30 (different from yours) has two holes tapped in sump and one line goes to top of tank and the other is a return as at WOT a fair bit of oil is pushed out. You obviously need to do all the drilling and relieving before the block is cleaned. 1.0mm restrictor sounds right Mines rocker cover baffles seem to work Oil air seperator and catch can sound good - going to eventually vent to intake or atmosphere?

Why not fuel injection? You are building an old 240Z! There is a guy in NZ successfully running a 2wd n/a 2L skyline with individual throttles in Rallying and hillclimbs and he reckons he needs lots of revs to keep up.

If you like to spend your spare time mixing fuel

ID 1000s are very popular choice. It doesn't mean that they will pump more fuel for a given power level than a Sard 700. It used to be the case that big injectors didn't work the best at low delivery levels but ID1000s and even 2000s are considered to be fine for 600hp and also give you headroom in case you decide to go E85.

Go the GT3076 - 3540 is too big for the RB25 - pretty sure it won't low mount whereas 3076 will fit with 10mm spacer. GT3076 is good for 300kw on 98 330kw on E85 and much more responsive on a 25 than the 3540. In fact people have had realy good results with the 3076 on an RB30/25.

Just because it has diffferent rim widths doesn't mean its ok. T51 with just an SAFC! Needs an HKS F-Con .

I still don't see where you say it has been rebored. Did it just get a hone or has it been rebored for oversized pistons?

So is the "mechanic" suggesting its normal to empty your sump out via the cam cover breathers? Usually this problem just arises at WOT so only on the dyno or the track so if your mate is getting this happening on the street then if he ever ventures on to the track he has a very real possibility of running out of oil pressure not to mention making a mess of his engine and dropping oil on the track.

Why would you bother unless there is a big cost saving.

Your options are limited without pulling the engine out. Ideally oil control needs to start with the build before the block is cleaned! Read the first few and last few (or all if you have the inclination) pages of this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/page__hl__sk+oil+control An oil air seperator really is an ambulance at the bottom of the cliff at this stage and won't solve the problem of the pump potentially emptying your sump. I had the same problem. Solution was pull engine fit 2x 1.0mm restrictors and breathers from sump to catch can (not to back of head - that does either little at best and probably nothing usefull).

Why stock boost? Sounds like time for an aftermarket ecu of some sort. And don't assume boost levels - get a boost gauge!

I am running 330mm D2s on my full weight Stagea - couple of weeks ago did a full day at Pukekohe 20minute sessions pulling down from 240km/hr on the back straight to a 40k hairpin and about 220 to 80 on the front straight with no problems (Motul 600 fluid, the braided lines they come with and just non-Brembo GTR brakes on the rear) - pulled up stright every time - no fade. BTW fit ok under 17x9in TE37 and also under my no-name 17x8.5 track rims

What's with all the formatting stuff - can that be got rid of (not a computer expert myself)?

I have hydraulic lifters and vct and have two x 1.0mm restrictors with an N1` pump - no problems so far - max revs 7000 and four track days behind me.

If you have room for the 52mm ally radiator with the stock fan and shroud!

Scary!

If its installed

Jolly good - let me know if you need a manual - I can send it as an attachment.

No the calipers should bolt straight up - have successfully attached GTT now GTR to them.

I don't think so - even if stock is 1.8mm then you will reduce flow by more than 30% with Tomei restrictors. If it is 2.0mm you have reduced flow by about 45%I run 2 x 1.0mm on my RB30/25

Do you have any evidence for this? Tomei restrictors are 1.5mm and the ads suggest the stock size is 2.0mm. The only figure I have seen for the RB30 is 1.8mm. Spools restrictors are 1.3mm and I doubt that both Tomei and Spool (and others for that matter) would knowingly make and sell restrictors that are bigger than the standard one.[To declare my interest I sell the following restrictors: 1.5mm, 1.2mm, 1.0mm and blanking plugs].

If you haven't already... read the first few and last few (or all if you're so inclined) pages of this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/page__hl__sk+oil+control SK recommends to leave the VCT, blank off the front feed and put a 1.5 in the rear for drags or 1.0mm for track or drifting. I wouldn't bother with the rear head "drain" but do relieve the internal drains and drill and tap the sump so that you can fit a breather running to a catch can - not the head. Is your engine going to be fully forged and run to 9000 rpm? I run an N1 pump (10,000km so far on my RB30/25) but I don't hammer the revlimiter and keep it under 7000 rpm. Depending on use you could be ok with dropping a set of Reimax gears in your pump.

The pictures on their site show a small amount ground away for the extra clearance needed for the 3.4 - looks like a very small job - less than 15min labour.Go the 34 - I want to see more results!!

Mine is a bargain basement build with stock pistons resulting in about 8.2:1 CR As yours will be fully forged etc something well north of 9:1 or even more if you are going to run E85 would be good! I have an N1 pump but don't limiter bash and have 7000 max rpm. Jun sounds good - Tomei may be better but people swear by Nitto pumps - no experience of them myself!!