KiwiRS4T

Looking at your list you need a Z32 afm next and a tune. Don't mod your head. If you really want you can put Poncams in later (without removing the head I believe).

Should be able to get a decent trans cooler for $150. With the C34 its easy enough to get a known good auto box for about $300 (they are just dumped over here) from someone converting to manual but don't know how easy it is to find an M35 trans although there are one or two doing a manual conversion in Aus....but a rebuild might be good if you're going to keep it for at least another 5 years!

No kidding! I paid $4,500 for my bog standard RS4T - I've spent more than 3 times that much on it in the last three years.

Yes its in the RB30 section at the top of this page for some reason! http://stevenwelsh.site.net.au/RB30_DOHC.pdf

Very neat install - I have scored a nice dash top three gauge holder but I have 5 (may be 6) 60mm gauges and was going to put the rest in the aircond vent but I'd quite like to keep that so I will probably copy your example but also cut out the cigarette lighter (no smoking car!).

Well a cylinder can only be filled with oil (not likely) petrol - possible but you should smell it as soon as you pull the plugs out - or water - blown head gasket and/or cracked head. If you take the plugs out and turn the engine over (with a remote switch on the starter or pref by hand) you may see some of the offending liquid come out the plughole. Are you losing water from the radiator? Does there appear to be water in the oil (or oil in the radiator)? My other idea is faulty CAS or damaged CAS drive on the end of the camshaft. Good luck!

Yes that's right. Timing is here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/73824-adj-camshaft-pulley-new-cam-belt/ Suggest you pull the plugs out and try turning it over by hand and you should be able to see if any cylinder is hydraulicked

Read the RB30 hybrid upgrade thread for KW If you are building an RB30 to be economical I would say a Neo head would be best but the biggest determinant will be your right foot. I find I can get just as good economy (or just as bad) out of my RB30/25 as when I had the RB25DET if I don't boot it everywhere.

What R31 Nismoid is saying is that if your piston and ring clearances etc are spot on you shouldn't have significant blowby although RB30s seem to manage to generate excess pressure in the sump anyway. if you read say the last ten pages of this thread:<br />http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/?hl=sk%20oil%20control<br />you will find the real world solutions that people have come up with and a fitting at the back of the head is not one of them. Relieved oil drains and restrictors are good but if you have the engine out consider also an enlarged and baffled sump and take the opportunity to put a couple of 20mm outlets at the top of the sump. if you need to ventilate the sump you don't want the pressure going in to the cam covers but out to a catch can. The solutions from people who have fixed their oil problems (including me) are there to be read.

Just forget the rear head "drain".If you need to ventilate the sump do it from the intake side and run the hoses to a catch can.

Spool sell CP pistons for RB30/25 or26 in 8.2 or 9.0:1 compression - you want the 9.0:1 Just look through the RB30 Hybrid Upgrade thread. the last one is mine -only 312 AWKW with a stock (low compression) bottom end c/w this example from Proengines 364KW -similar build to mine but with cams and 9:1 pistons: RB30 bottom end Spool Rods Wiseco pistons 9:1 ACL race series bearings crank collar, RB25 pump Cometic 1.3mm gasket head ported, std valves vvt removed, Tomei 256 intake cam, HKS 264 exhaust cam fabricated exh manifold, GT35/40 .7 front, .82 rear front facing plenum, std TB Engine is on boost by 3000, very driveable.

Yes very interesting test.. but regarding your miss my tuner (Soichi at ST Hitech) pointed out a miss at high revs/boost and told me to replace the copper plugs with PFR7 plugs gapped to 0.8mm so maybe that would be worth a try first.

I haven't bought that harness but I have bought a number of items from that supplier and consider them reliable.

I don't think you can get pistons that will give you more compression that you can use on the RB30 so higher the better (unless you're getting custom pistons made).

Yep mine was an OV300 - to install a Link you take out the board and put the Link in the same case so all the pinouts are reused. I didn't do the install but the only thing I know for sure is that he had to run a wire from the TPS for the Attessa but with an R34 ecu the only thing I can think of is the traction control which may trigger a fault code but that can be got around.

Cam belt?

I am using a set of 330mm x 32mm 8 pot D2s on the front of my 1800kg Stagea with 17 x 9 TE37s and they pull up fine with no drama time after time from 250km/hr on the back straight and about 230km/hr on the front straight at Pukekohe. have also used them at Hampton Downs, Taupo and Manfield circuits. I just have GTR 2 pots on the rear, a GTR Master Cylinder braided lines and Motul RB600 fluid. Would think that would be fine for a slightly lighter GTR.

?? My aircond and ABS work fine.

Sell the Nismo to some mug for $500 - you can buy a nice lot of shims for that!

Should work. I'm running a G4 Link R34 neo model in my rB30/25 which has a S2 R33 head and associated sensors. The CAS on the Neo is wired back to front compared with the R33 CAS so you may need to check the connections but I can't see any reason why it shouldn't work.

I don't have any experience of the Cosworth head gasket but I don't think its critical so long as both surfaces are flat. I am using a Tomei 1.5 gasket.I don't like those "head drain" fittings - I have two breathers on the sump. Read the last few pages of this:<br />http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/?hl=sk%20oil%20control<br /><br />I have an N1 pump in my RB30/25 and use 2 x 1.0mm restrictors (you can buy them from me).

Well here's my surge tank but I don't suggest you copy it. As its in a station wagon there is no boot compartment. I have made a metal cover which has sound absorbing material inside and outside but my Bosch 044 is still very noisy. If I were to do it again I would either put the surge tank under the body in front of the petrol tank or preferably get a tank made up with a home for the fuel pump(s) built below tank level so its all in one and you don't need a lift pump.

According to your link the compression ratio would be exactly the same across all GT-Rs. There is a difference in valve timing (not lift or duration) according to this Tomei chart but I don't know if that would halve the boost: http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/e090_camshaft-specs.html

Read the RB25 turbo upgrade thread at the top of the page and this for a start: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/251820-got-over-400kw-atw/ and dig into your savings for the $20k to get going.

A couple of things - first have you put a chamfer on the leading edge of the pad? Rubbing it on a sheet of sandpaper e.g. will do. Also have you replaced the backing plates and applied some copperslip or other anti-squeal compound?