KiwiRS4T

Try bleeding it first. Not familiar with R32 but you will probably find a bleed nipple at the end of the gearbox and another above the diff.

There's quite a few options - e.g. OS Giken from Japan PPG dogbox from Aus Autosalon Yokohama from Japan and HKS dog box H pattern or sequential like this: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/gearboxes/auction-635181453.htm and more...

No - imagine taking out the frost plugs and pouring concrete in to the block until its half full. Here ya go - apparently Yanks call it Hard Blok http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchCmd?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&Ntk=all&Jnar=0&Ne=1%2B2%2B3%2B13%2B1147708&searchTerm=hardblok

People snap axles at the drags with 700hp or less but Rips put over 1000hp through a stock front and rear end (but with a monster powerglide/transfer box)

Yes but the auto won't last long without being beefed up (especially if you're dragging it). But you can drive the 600k or more and then do the manual conversion.

Re the dash light - it might be something simple like the awd fuses have been pulled. There should probably be one in the fusebox in the engine bay (labels should be on the lid_ and there may be another in the car. In my Stagea it is behind the coin tray. Another thing that will throw the warning light is low or no fluid in the reservoir - in my Stagea it is behind a panel on the rh side of the boot - don't know where it is on a GTS4. Also the previous owner may have taken advantage of the 2wd to have different sized rims and or tyres front and rear. For the Attessa to work you must have the same rolling radius front and rear (simply the same size rims and tyres).

If you must use an SAFC you should look out for an SITC to control timing. I've been down that road and it works but no where near as well as my LINK G4! If you are doing it because you have an auto you will wish later (like me) that you had got a manual box first. In my case (Stagea) I didn't have much choice but to fit a GTR box but you could choose to sell your car and buy a manual (or just get the box).

Sorry was thinking of the central one - just pop out the hazard switch and push from the back while pulling from the front - but the small one on the right of the steering wheel can't think just now sorry.

It just clips in - pulls straight out. I'll have a look tomorrow...car's in the street and its pouring down atm.

Yep the Audi is the rich man's Stagea. If I win the Lotto tonight I'll buy this to run round in I while I am getting the 3.4L Spool engine built for my S1: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=630369930

Replacing all your stock bushes without the subframe lock will tighten everything up and if you do front and rear you should definitely feel the difference!

They are not very common over here. This guy is running an ATS carbon LSD (I'm guessing it was fitted in Japan) - if you're keen you can give him a ring: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=585599046

R34 GTR is 3.545:1 all R32 and R33 GTR are 4.1

Had a quick look at mine today (sorry no time to jack up and measure - maybe later in the week) and they are at an angle but not alarmingly so and have been like that for about 4 years. Still the HD links look good - how much for a pair Dale?

I got the BNR11XXZ24mm for my rear (on a S1 auto awd) and I didn't modify anything. I'll try to remember to have a look in the morning to see if the links are at an extreme angle but I don't think so

There is no problem with doing this but I wouldn't use it to achieve permanent 2wd because of the need to reset each time. The best way to get full time 2wd is to sell the car and buy a rwd car.

I don't know about the Cometic but my Tomei head gasket has been reused twice so far and is fine.

Use photobucket or similar

You shouldn't need another pump if you can make something to contain your pumps that has one way gates on it (to let fuel in but not out - similar to the one way system on some sumps)

Greddy item looks fine. I have just bought a similar Mocal unit as I don't really have any room to relocate and I can do the filter change under my FFP ok.

Rips has experience of fitting 2 speed autos to a number of RBs (lately a 1000kw RB3.2)

Your Mines ecu may be able to accept a Nistune chip. I think its just a modified stocker.

Hypergear does good stuff. Don't use ebay contact him direct: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/

No If you want a new pump a Walbro or DW will do it.

Part numbers: This is an R33 one (Mitsubishi) 23731 02U11 This is an R34 CAS -(Hitachi) 23731 5L 300