KiwiRS4T

OEM airboxes are cheap as over here - surely you can pick one up from someone wrecking one for about $30?

Yep won't be doing cams with unbalanced stock bottom end - 7000 will be it for me. I was going to get a .82 but was talked into the .63 on account of the 1800kg dead weight and although I lose some top end the car does take off in any gear when I floor it so happy with that.

Get the rotor(s) skimmed - machine operator should be able to check for runout.

Stock cams and springs... head was from a S2 R33 engine (so should be same as Stagea). Bottom end is stock (would recommend getting it forged and balanced as you did) so probably won't push it much further but obviously would go harder with bigger cams and better valve springs. Currently limited to 7000 rpm

Finally got to post up some dyno charts. Not earth shattering (308 AWKW) but it feels fast to me. I have had some good days on various tracks but now looking forward to setting a 1/4 mile time. Trouble is Friday nights are drag days and I work at nights but hopefully I will get down there before too long. Progress has been slow - no time or money - but some new plugs and a better setting up of the wastegate and a touch up of the tune should net me a few more AWKW. RB30 is great for the Stagea (mine is 1800kg with me in it) - pulls away from 1000 rpm in 5th comes on boost 2500 and full boost at 4000 (rev limited at 7000).

Nissan Stagea 1996 AWD Stock RB30 block apart from new rings, bearings, big end bolts, Tomei sump baffle kit N1 oil pump. Stock R33 head cleaned up, VCT connected, Tomei head gasket and adjustable ex cam gear. Sinco Customs exhaust manifold, GT3540R turbo with .63 ex, Synapse 50mm W/G, Venom 5in 100 cell cat, 3in exhaust with straight through resonator and cannon. Hybrid FMIC, Greddy copy FFP, HKS Sequential BOV, Deatschwerks 550 injectors, stock throttle body, fpr and rail. Walbro in tank fuel pump and Bosch 044 from surge tank. Link G4 ecu. 98 Pump fuel. Plan to install some better plugs, fine tune W/G and retune for a few more KW but will probably leave it at that as I don't want to push too hard on a stock unbalanced bottom end. Credits: Joe (Joes Mechanical) Glenn (GDS motorsport) and Soichi (ST Hi-Tec).

Nissan Stagea 1996 AWD Stock RB30 block apart from new rings, bearings, big end bolts, Tomei sump baffle kit and N1 oil pump. Stock R33 head cleaned up, VCT connected, Tomei head gasket and adjustable ex cam gear. Sinco Customs exhaust manifold, GT3540R turbo with .63 ex, Synapse 50mm W/G, Venom 5in 100 cell cat, 3in exhaust with straight through resonator and cannon. Hybrid FMIC, Greddy copy FFP, HKS Sequential BOV, Deatschwerks 550 injectors, stock throttle body, fpr and rail. Walbro in tank fuel pump and Bosch 044 from surge tank. Link G4 ecu. 98 Pump gas. Plan to install some better plugs, fine tune W/G and retune for a few more KW but will probably leave it at that as I don't want to push too hard on a stock unbalanced bottom end. Credits: Joe (Joes Mechanical) Glenn (GDS motorsport) and Soichi (ST Hi-Tec).

I have a GT3540R with a .63 ex on my RB30/25 currently making 308AWKW at 22 psi. I have had it up to 28psi but it doesn't make any more power at that level. Someone else's RB30 (might have been an RB30/26) made 350KW at 18psi with the same turbo (.63 GT3540R)

Neo cams have higher lift so good to keep. For most cars swapping the CAS type just involves reversing the wiring so I would have thought it possible to make it work even with your aftermarket ecu.

If it can't be tuned there is no advantage to you. Better to get a Nistune chip for your existing ecu or go aftermarket ecu.

Auto Gallery Yokohama gearsets (rebuilt boxes).... these guys in Japan do stronger gearsets and transfer boxes. Also possibly Dodsons in Auckland NZ for transfer case.

Did tuner report leaning out? Have you replaced the fuel pump - checked fuel pressure?

From me - (possibly elsewhere)- have blank, 1.0, 1.2 and 1.5

You can fit the arms yourself. Do one side at a time and it will be obvious which way round they go. When you have fitted them your toe in will be miles out so adjust that by eye until you can get to an alignment shop. They won't set your camber - only measure it but they can adjust your toe in and set caster to about 6 - 7 deg. Lots of camber is really for a track only car. I had a set of Cusco front camber arms on my car but have since gone back to stock as my front tyres were chewing out fast. The rear camber arms are probably easily adjustable but 1.5 deg neg should be plenty.

Should be one of these (haven't had to buy one myself yet): 3 different tie rods outers for Stageas, depending on model, year, 4wd/2wd, MT/AT etc 48520-0cu25(2wd) 48520-15u25(4wd) 48520-23u25(4wd) 2 different for R33, both are same part # as 2 of the 3 Stagea tie rods. 48520-15u25(2wd) 48520-23u25(4wd)

BTW go straight to the factory - may be a little cheaper than Ebay: http://www.venomexhaustworks.com.au/products.html#

OK so you have a S2 - just get a Nistune chip for your ecu. You already have a decent trans cooler from stock. There is no bigger Nissan side mount but options include Trust or bigger and still more rare an ARC. And get on to the Stagea section - there is a wealth of information there. Side mounts ...all will fit your car but the non stock ones are hard to find: Stagea S1 (R33) 210 x 185 x 65 Stagea S2 (R34GTT) 210 x 225 x 80 Trust 195 x 140 x 100 Nismo 200 x 230 x 100 ARC M075 WGNC34G 75 ARC M105 WGNC34G 250 x220x 105 ARC M075 ECR33G ARC M105 ER34G 250 x 220 x 105

I have a 5in 100 cell from Venom - putting 308awkw through it atm

New ones are not much more than recond or... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/415372-r33-rb25-alternator/

Just cut a piece out of the bottom case - the lid is unchanged but removed for the photo (must clean my engine bay!)

Presume you have an auto so adaptronic may not work - Greddy E-Manage will keep you going til you get the GTR box! Get a return flow front mount and paint it black!

Using the standard T/B on my Stagea - managed to move the fusebox a little and removed some surplus material so pulley doesn't touch.

What kind of data would impress you? My car ran awesome on BCPR7ES but the previous tuner showed me on the screen of his dyno the misfiring at high revs and boost but apart from gapping down the plugs he didn't suggest a solution. The tuner I went to on Thursday was Soichi from ST Hytech and if he is not the best Nissan tuner in the country then he certainly is extremely experienced having tuned many of the top GTRs in this country as well as some in South Africa and a few other places - including street cars, drag cars and circuit racers so he has seen the proof on his dyno as well as on the 1/4mile etc. That's good enough for me. I am sure other tuners can get good results with different plugs and ignition systems - that's cars for you.

Got a tune yesterday from one of NZ's top tuners (def the top Nissan tuner) - will post the results when I get a chance to scan the charts - but learned two interesting things: 1. I have (along with a lot of other people) been using and recommending BCPR6 or 7 spark plugs but they are WRONG! I found my last tuner had gapped them down to 0.5mm to try to eliminate misfiring at high revs and boost (7000 @ 1.4 bar). Soichi said I should use PFR7 to fix this problem. If you check the NGK application guide you will find they list BCPR5 for the RB25DE and for the RB25DET they list PFR5G. So I will be getting some PFR7s!! 2. Don't use E10 fuel (in NZ anyway) - it seems the only distributor in NZ ...Gull... say they use "up to" 10% ethanol so for highly tuned engines it is too unstable.

Its all in here mate: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/?hl=sk%20oil%20control If it looks too much just read the first few and last few pages