KiwiRS4T

Unless the 2wd has an entirely different suspension to the 4wd all he will be adjusting is the angle of the shocks - not the camber.

If you haven't had a good run with your engine you may not know if you are going to have oil control problems - and they are not related to hp but to revs and oil pump choice. there are two main symptoms - at extended periods at WOT such as on the straight on a track or on a dyno you can get too much oil in the cam covers so that it spews out everywhere. The other is that you can pump the oil out of your sump faster than it flows back potentially creating oil starvation. If you have the head off I would bang the appropriate restrictors in now anyway.

I found GTT brakes with a M/C stopper, braided brake lines, Motul RBF600 brake fluid and quality pads perfectly adequate on the track for my 18ookg Stagea so I am sure they would do for your lighter GTS-4. I only got the D2s when I got the heavier RB30 in the front together with much greater kw and speeds!

Don't do MSpaint but can do English. IF you have an oil control problem apart from the other measures here is what to do catch can wise: Run 2 half inch hoses from as high as possible in the sump on the inlet side to a catch can mounted at battery level - one hose to the top and the other to the bottom (for a drain so include an optional one way valve). You can combine the hoses from the cam covers and run them into the same catch can (ideally a well baffled catch can). Do not vent the catch can to atmosphere but run a hose from the top of the can to the turbo inlet. Ideally you would include an air/oil separator in that line or alternatively a second catch can although neither may be strictly necessary if you are not getting oil in the line to the turbo inlet.

472awhp will make for a Very Quick Stagea Indeed!!

And what do you do when your wideband says the afrs are no good? Get something tunable.

Here ya go:http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/280174-removal-replacement-of-heater-core-skyline-the-right-way-without-removing-the-dash-at-all/

There is a "how to" in this site on changing the heater core without pulling the dash out (via the glovebox etc). Due to try it myself shortly.

I bought my GCG about four years ago - if I were doing it today I would go Hypergear - better and cheaper. If you are determined to go with GCG ask the "guy behind the counter" to put in writing that the turbo will hold 20psi up to x revs in x gear!

Presumably he means setting the ignition timing by rotating the CAS

I bought a second hand Tomei (from a trusted known source) for about the price of a stock gasket - and yes they can be reused - my head has been off again since the initial build.

Must be a magic bottle that has both 80W-140 and 80W-90 in it!!

Have D2 brakes so upgraded to BM57 m/c (R34 GTR or twin turbo Z).

Haven't got round to it yet - seems a good idea!

Yep should be ok - you can double check before you put the cam covers on that everything is opening and closing at the right time. A tip - assuming you are keeping VCT get an adjustable gear for the exhaust cam in order to get full value from your RB30.

An N1 pump should certainly be adequate. Have you been using the same oil pressure gauge? Perhaps that is not reading correctly? You say the first engine suffered broken rings. Not sure if this can be attributed to low oil pressure - would have though that inadequate oil supply would have seen a bearing failure. Did you see for yourself the plastigauge results for the second build?

Yes. If you read the last few pages of the big thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/?hl=sk%20oil%20controlyou will see that worked for me. You can also run the cam cover breathers to the same catch can and then instead of venting the catch can to atmosphere run a line to the turbo intake - preferably via an air/oil separator (or in my case just a second catch can). Do you have an oil restrictor in place?

If you have an RB25 head it should be pretty much the same. The main thing is not to turn anything with the belt off! And as per the previous post probably better to insert a lead between the no1 coil and plug and time off that.

^^^Like he says - if its same as the Stagea the R33 auto ecu is in the main ecu unlike the R34 so you will need to keep the R33 ecu and loom and adapt the Neo to suit if possible. You may be able to re use the R33 coils and injectors where they are different. I am not sure about the VCT differences. If you want certainty you could probably pull the head off the R33 if it is in good nick and put that on the Neo block and then it should be pretty straightforward.

My RB30 with just new bearings and a stock N1 pump has a good 100 psi at start up. I am using 10 - 40 fully synthetic Agip atm (will be using Motul 300 next). Did you use plastigauge to confirm your clearances? Its definitely not a matter of getting a more expensive pump.If you start caning your engine I suspect your oil pressure will drop even more. 10W 60 is considered too thick these days but maybe you should give it a try before you pull your engine down again.

You can get a tourist carnet for your car for up to one year. Enquire through the Automobile Association (or whatever it is called in the UK).

I first put GTT brakes (with braided lines, a M/C stopper and Motul RBF600 brake fluid) and they were fine on my 1800kg Stagea. Only went with the D2s because a set came up and to provide insurance when hammering the car on the track. They should be fine on your car but maybe look out for a bigger M/C as well.

If I were you I would try to identify some of the components of the two gear boxes on Nissan Fast or elsewhere to see if anything is in fact "bigger" on the re4ro3a.

I have seen bovs either side of the I/c and even some (oem) on the intercooler. I am planning to relocate mine to the turbo side so that there is just a short pipe for the return to the turbo inlet. The job of the bov is to relieve the pressure on the turbo and most of the air being expelled will come from the turbo after the throttle is shut. The air between the bov and the throttle does not all have to be expelled. And yes there is a stock part for the HKS bov to accommodate a return pipe... in fact there is a number of alternative pipe sizes...e.g. http://www.ebay.com/itm/HKS-Blow-Off-Valve-BOV-SSQV-outlet-1-Recirculation-Adapter-/320965078546?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4abb026e12&vxp=mtr

Sure you've bled them properly? I put GTT and then 8 pot D2s on my Stagea and they worked fine although with a little more travel. I think the Stagea had a BM50 but I have since put a BM57 on to shorten the travel a bit. I would be surprised if you had no brakes at all. Try another bleed. But maybe if your car has a really small MC that could be the problem. I take it you are planning to upgrade the MC anyway - you are looking for an R34 GTR one or possibly a 300z DETT one. Also a bigger MC means you have to stand on the pedal harder so maybe try and get the booster to go with it if it is bigger then the one you have now.