KiwiRS4T

Depends on what kind of suspension you have and to what use you put your car. I track my car sometimes and have a ride height of about 330mm on Bilstein suspension. I have to watch out for low kerbs and steep drives such as in car park buildings.

AWD and RWD are different

Cool wagon! Are they the stock wheels and what size tyres are you running?

A little Googling reveals Arram as a Japanese manufacturer who make injectors, throttle bodies and carburetors.

There's something wrong with your car or your driving if you seriously can't get better than 16L /1ookm. I can get 12L/100 out of my 1800kg Stagea around town if I don't floor it away from every traffic light (and it was much the same when I had the RB25DET in it).

Aluminium wheel nuts have been banned for motorsport here so probably now not certable either.

I am not sure if the internal VCT feed method got past the great theory stage. I have seen a couple of people who have tried and failed - don't remember seeing anyone who has actually done it successfully. Anyway don't really see how it relates to oil control problems - you still need restrictors at least and with RB30s I would say you need sump breathers.

Quite likely. I would say if you regularly tow with the an auto you need a huge trans cooler and ideally an auto fluid temp gauge. My cooling system is stock - I replaced the old radiator with a new stock one and it never gets hot towing a heavy trailer and I always use 5th on the motorway....nor on the track for that matter (no I don't tow a trailer on the track).

Racebrakes sold me some Pagid pads which I will fit now and then take the old pads to them for a street lining which I will then put in the car and save the Pagids for track days.

Urgently needed some pads for my 330mm D2 brakes and fitted some unknown street pads - lasted just one track day at Hampton Downs! Will go to Race Brakes and get something better...

There you go - put the 255s on the 9in on the back and buy some 8in for the front.

Thickness of the rotor is immaterial. Excessive runout will push the pads further away. As noted above when you are approaching a corner at 250km/hr you will have no difficulty finding the strength to apply the brakes! NB if you are using race pads you will find that if you use them on the street then they may have little or no stopping ability when cold no matter how hard you brake!

When do you expect your turbo to start making usefull boost? Here is my chart achieved using a Mac valve and my G4 Link ecu as electronic boost controller:

You have it the wrong way round. If you go to a bigger diameter master cylinder piston then you need to apply more foot pressure because you are pushing against a bigger area but the travel will be less. A bigger booster may help.. I have changed to a BM57 but also have a MC stopper and braided brake lines so that less effort is lost on the way to the caliper pistons. You should of course put fresh high quality brake fluid in the system (such as Motul RBF600 or RBF660).

Adapters work fine but they are effectively spacers. I am surprised that a 97 R33 still has four stud hubs. Spend the money on a 5 stud conversion c/w brakes instead.

For the store the bigger the wheels the more of your money they get. Don't listen to them.

I have 255s on 9in rims so your rims are at least an inch too big. Camber is not a solution to a fitment problem it is a handling decision. Extra camber can help on the track but will just waste your tyres with street use. You need smaller rims or bigger guards.

Some pumps fade gradually. Get a Walbro - 044s are so noisy (and if you still have your stock fpr stick that back in).

Did you buy the arms new or second hand? I seem to remember that my arms came with the bolts.

Better turbo

There is not necessarily anything wrong with this motor. It may be purpose built as a high compression engine designed to run on race fuel or E85. Back in my youth as a Ford mechanic we used to get cars with high compressions caused by excessive deposits and they were routinely "decoked"... not a term I hear these days. If the engine is in a car you should test drive it with some form of det detection to see if it is detonating. Ask the seller why the compression is so high - did he build it himself or know who did?

Don't really need a filter - its a metal thing you can take out and clean. All RE4R01A should be the same 2wd or awd. Stagea, skyline, utes all the same.

Not at all a pain to drive off boost - accelerates quickly from 1000 rev/min in any gear. However your specs will make for a quick car!

I have low compression pistons as they were lying around the shop at the time of my low budget build. Consequently I have to run 25 psi to make the same power as others do with 18psi and high compression pistons! It was a very slow build and over time I added more expensive components to the top of the engine (what you might call the wrong way round)! If and when my engine goes bang I will rebore and fit 9.5:1 forged pistons and properly balance everything.