KiwiRS4T

Sounds like my engine. Unless you're going to pull it apart and put in some high compression pistons you may as well carry on and test it again when its been run. Thinner headgasket would help but will not make a significant difference. My compressions are all around 120 and I am making 314AWKW with a 3540R. PM me your no and I'll give you a ring if you want.

Yes CAS wires are mirror image so complete reverse. If the CAS is different you may have different igniter system for coils. If you could find someone in your area (with a few more clues than me) they could probably spot the problems after a quick look.

People who have cut open Ryco filters report less filter material and dodgy non return valves. I use Nismo filters from Nissan NZ$30 ea.

No worries have already replaced with stainless!

Sure its not lifters or even the CAS?

I just bought a Display Link - will give me access to all of the info accessed by my ecu allow logging and enable me to reduce the number of gauges needed. Only suits Link (or Vipec) though. http://www.linkecu.com/products/TuningTools/DisplayLink

If you're going to sell it in six months why take a risk? Sell off all the gear you mentioned and return it to stock - you'll probably make more money that way and less chance of blowing it up.

You are best to get one custom made as very few off the shelf items have any proper baffling inside. Mine is plumbed the same as Simon's except where he has a vent I have a line going to the turbo inlet. You could buy a 4L square surge tank and cut it up and modify it to suit. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Oil-Water-or-Fuel-Catch-Can-or-Surge-Tank-Alloy-2-0L-/251408805028?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a8921eca4

How many km or track days did they last before cracking?

You don't need the fitting at he back of the head. Two lines between the sump and a catch can would be good - one at the top of the can one at the bottom so it can drain if necessary. Follow the post above from Simon. To be street legal over here (and I suspect it is the same in Aus) you can't vent to atmosphere which is why I run a line back to the turbo intake. If you suspect there is excessive oil fumes in that line (a properly baffled catch can will hopefully prevent that) you will need to run a second catch can or oil/air separator in the line to the turbo intake

You're almost there - follow Simon's example in the post above yours. Actually the bigger sump and restrictors will cover most of it. But while you have the sump off drill and tap (or weld if you're so inclined) two fittings as high as possible on the intake side of the sump. You can just cap or plug them for now and if you decide you need the two breathers later at least you won't have to pull the engine out again.

I was having a number of problems: 1. When I was trying to reply to a post the quote was not appearing. 2. I couldn't paste anything - no links to websites or photobucket Solution: uninstalled IE11 and reverted to IE10 - problems solved. Hope this helps someone else.

Also removed the knock-off Aerocatches which lasted less than 6 months and installed the much superior genuine article. (BTW was having a number of problems with this site - unable to paste links etc. Just uninstalled IE11 and reverted to IE10 - all seems to be fixed)

Hugh have you put a bigger transfluid cooler on the auto RS4? If it is still routed through the bottom of the radiator that should help. I presume you are using a good synthetic oil! I had a remote filter system but gave up on looking for a place to put it so just got a sandwich plate where I can screw the filter on as its not too hard to do under the FFP. And what have I done to my Stagea lately? Finally fitted the stock rear wing I bought ages ago, got my under mirror rust cut out and will paint shortly. I got tired of buying cheap and nasty wheels for the track and thought why don't I use my lightweight forged TE37s and bought some Direzzas to try. For the street I got a set of 18 x 8in wheels (ex Nissan GT coupe SE) which actually fit ok. I seem to have lost the ability to paste links on here (anyone else or is it my computer?) so pics will have to wait.

Just round the corner from you...in Sydney!

Did you try putting a chamfer or bevel on the leading edges of the pads? Worked for me.

In the first instance contact the shop that did the work as soon as possible. Could be tricky as they may be closed for Christmas. Do they belong to a trade association to which you can complain if necessary? Make some enquiries about the relevant consumer protection laws so you can quote them if necessary. In this country the last resort would be the small claims court/ disputes tribunal But try the direct approach first and be calm and polite but insistent! Damage is likely to be limited to what you have observed unless the cambelt has also gone - which is unlikely.

Broken rings/ ringlands? I used to have an RB25DET which blew the dipstick out because of broken rings but it still idled ok and went well (well quite well). And yes get your "mate" to pay for it.

Who needs a turbo? Local racer Reg Cook set a world record at Bonnevile in an n/a four cylinder NX (albeit with an SR20) of 279.2km/hr (174mph).

680 pounds! Did you get a reply from Dodsons?

Email Link. They are normally very helpful although it is Christmas just now: http://www.linkecu.com/contactus or try the forums: http://www.linkecu.com/forums

I have had a turbo rebuilt by GCG - cost an arm and a leg - try Hypergear

A fix that worked for me: Take the pads out and chamfer the leading edges and put them back

Up to 600hp depending on turbo, injectors etc.

Bilsteins are not adjusted by just turning a screw or ring - its necessary to move a circlip up or down a few grooves so not a 5 min job.