KiwiRS4T

Decided to try 18s so got a set of 18 x 8 off a Nissan GT coupe sport edition (they work ok so bought a set of Rays GT7 - will post pics when I fit them):

More boost! Yes boost controller will help. Have you replaced your stock injectors? Is the fmic doing the job? Got a good tuner?

Not sure what "bigger" lines are supposed to achieve. I have 8 pot D2s on the front and haven't changed my lines (except for braided lines to the calipers).

?? Heaps on Google images including some schematic drawings you could adapt: https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=Nissan+Stagea+Images&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=rPTuUqCRD-aviQe9q4C4DA&ved=0CCUQsAQ&biw=1920&bih=911

Never mind the net just have a look through this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/forum/146-drivetrain-and-transmission/

What's the new one Hugh - an RB30?

Hi Gav! There is no centre diff lock (there's no centre diff - its a transfer case with multiple plate clutch) but there is a button which will retain 50/50 front rear split for take off purposes - when you get up speed the Attessa computer takes over again with 95% rear 5% front until it senses slip at the rear. If you push the button you will know its the right one because a little 4wd symbol will light up on the dash. Have a bit of a read there is lots of info and a couple of threads on wheel and tyre choices. Use the search function on this site or use Google - very often it will refer you to threads on SAU.

Price now $99.00

Price now $99

I recently replaced my radiator with a brand new stocker. My car never overheats even on a hot day at the track. I had a stock front bar but I cut some of it away and moved the number plate out of the airstream. A lot of people seem to have problems when they replace their radiators with aftermarket alloy ones. Maybe some are very poor at their job?

His tyres are fairly seriously stretched - you won't be wanting to emulate that?!

You can get the Whiteline links from Dale. The stockers often don't sit quite right although I guess a set of bushes every six years is not too bad! I still have the bottom bushes - threw the top ones away - not sure if they are the same top and bottom but the ones I have show a number: 2092B - 10mm ID, 27mm OD, 17mm high (height approximate as both are quite worn).

I just got a pair of links from Dale to replace mine - few dollars more than the bushes though... http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/products/KLC109.JPG

Through the website? [email protected]

Good work! Nothing wrong with those fittings - that's what I use with oil and heat resistant hose.

Your Mines ecu is likely not tunable. Get a Nistune if you can.

Both on inlet side.

You're not reading it right. You don't need a "head drain" at all. Here's a summary: Fit 1.0mm oil restrictor. Drill out oil returns to 10mm and relieve all oil returns. Fit Mines baffle kits to cam covers. Install 2 fittings to sump as high as possible run one hose to the top (this is a pressure relief - may also blow some oil) of an at least 2L catch can and the other to the bottom (as a drain). Also vent your cam covers to this catch can (should be very little comes out of them). Then instead of a filter on top of the catch can run a pipe to either another catch can or an oil/air separator and what comes out of that should be fine to pipe into the turbo intake - or if you prefer to a couple of LARGE airfilters. This should deal to your problems (don't bother with fitting on back of head). The second catch can will need to be emptied but not very of

I bought my spark plugs on Ebay from the US: NGK PFR7G-11S gapped down to .8mm

So far as I know Rips big power (500 + kw) RB30s still use stock diffs and axles.

Remove radiator and fan if you haven't already. if you are not going to work on the engine and gearbox and have a decent hoist pull the both out together. Some will say different! If you are going to leave the box in undo the rear mounts so you can lower it to get to the top bell housing bolts. Sorry not much help - had a hard nights work and need sleep! Actually if its an auto probably too many things to disconnect so leave it in,

I'm getting 314AWKW at less than 90% duty on 98 petrol from my 550 Deatschwerks so you should be fine for now.

That's not a leakdown test but no worries at least you don't have a blown piston. When you say your catch can has no breather I presume it has a hole on top where a breather could go? Just pipe both/all of your cam cover breathers to the catch can and nothing to the turbo intake pipe. That way you can see how much oil is getting into the catch can and keep it out of the intake.. It may not be all that much. Engine failure is unlikely to damage your turbo although I would have thought that was the least of your worries! Some RBs will go for ages in that condition so don't assume its going to blow up soon (although you never know).

What M/c is in your car now? I would just try it - it could well be fine. But if you want to buy the one in the link... I got an R33 GTR BM57 M/C (with abs and only two ports) for my AWD Stagea with 330mm 8 pot D2s at the front and non Brembo R32 GTR brakes at the rear and reconditioned it with a pack marked 300ZX and my car pulls up hard and straight if that helps!

If you are new to all this be aware that you won't be plugging in your Vipec yourself - you need to get your tuner to install and tune it. Find your local distributor/tuner and go and have a chat.