KiwiRS4T

Quite. Your rims are clearly too wide. You will get the same look with narrower rims with different offset or spacers.

Not very well as OP's catch can doesn't appear to have a vent.

Depends what you mean by a flat spot. There is a noticeable dip in power when the VCT changeover happens. On the other hand if you lose all power momentarily that could be the ecu protecting the engine against overboosting (do you have a boost gauge? do you know if you are running standard boost?) which could happen on a cold night. That's called R(ich) and R(etard) when the ecu dumps extra fuel into the system and pulls back the timing at the same time.

I know how you feel. Had to use a mighty Hyundai Elantra for a couple of days and couldn't believe how well it handled the bumps! But not a suspension I would want in my Stagea. Ideally if I had loads of cash I would get HKS suspension with the in dash adjustment control.

As above ...your plan looks ok. Do you have some form of baffles in your catch can? If not and you are getting too much oil into your intake you might need an additional oil/air separator and/or put some mines baffles in the cam covers or make your own.

Mine just runs around the side - basically the same as the Rips one. There is quite a bit of work drilling and tapping etc to make it fit so workmanship counts here.

Here is R34 pinout I have another version with wire colours but I can't upload it. If you send me an email address I will attach it. [email protected] Pinouts R34_ecu.pdf

Stock FPR and fuel rail is good for at least 400kw so it should not be high on your list for replacement - it is not a performance mod.

Tuner sounds dodgy. Sell it and spend the money on a new pump.

It'll take more than 23psi to blow your head gasket! OEM will be fine if you torque your head properly.

Invest in a set of axle stands first or you may end up with someone dead under your car.

Have you had any indication as to price?

I have a C34 fuel gauge you could have ( K41061 0V000) but I guess the M35 one is different.

I have a low compression RB30 which severely limits off boost as well as outright performance making 314AWKW with a GT3540 - others easily make 350 -400 with the same turbo and higher compression. I don't know the number but it will be around 8:1 A compression test on mine comes out at about 135psi - ideally you would want better than 9:1 and about 180 psi

What's wrong with the stock one?

Low compression is the most likely problem but double and triple check the cam timing. Have you done a compression test? It won't help your off boost performance but turn up the boost to 25psi (more cylinder to fill up).

AA wreckers in otahuhu have M35 spares and will fit them for you. Glass company wanted $1000 for rear glass for my C34. I was going to buy a whole rear door but AA wreckers supplied and fitted glass for me for $300.

ECU may have run well on the sellers car but is yours exactly the same configuration... exhaust, intake, turbo etc?

Have a read of the Hypergear thread in the "forced induction" section and you can decide what best suits your needs.

I have never seen one before you posted that up! Might look better in real life. Personally I prefer to put the time and money into performance but if you go ahead be sure to keep us updated ...with pics!

This is an accusump on a GTR but in principle its no different on an RB25: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhRfUegqwxg&feature=youtu.be Here is his build thread (you can just read the last bit if you only want to know about the accusump) http://www.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=66378

It doesn't really need a cold air intake if it has the stock airbox etc but if you want one it certainly won't do any harm. OK just read your original post - you have a pod - so a stock S1 Stagea or R33 airbox would fit your car. The flames out the back are just a feature of this model! They run pretty rich at times.

Power costs money - no way round that. GT3540 is too big. .. and there is a big difference between 200kw and 250! If you don't have bags of cash (who does?) then get a fmic, 3in turbo back exhaust, a Nistune chip for your ecu turn your boost up to 12 psi and get it tuned - that will give you a noticeable increase in zip. Then save up for a Hypergear turbo which will slot right in without fabricating new lines etc, a z32 afm and bigger injectors... and then another tune.

The answer is yes. Your family runabout is probably not doing 7000 - 9000 rev/min with 25psi boost.

Had them about three years no problems. I have R32 GTR brakes at the rear and they pull up straight without any extra adjustment provided for front rear bias.