KiwiRS4T

Although it has been pointed out to you a few times you don't appear to have got the message - boost is not a factor in the life of your engine. Max power is a factor and to look after your engine you need a good tune, good maintenance with quality synthetic oil and sympathetic driving.

E10 means its 10% ethanol - do all the suppliers in Aus use 91 petrol for the other 90% or does it vary? If so I wouldn't bother. E10 over here is about 98 but its still of marginal value. Turning your CAS is not really going to give you the timing that you need. If you want to go faster turn your boost up a couple of psi.

There are really too many variables for a thread like this to be useful. I did have a set of 17 x 9 TE37s over my 330mm 8 pot D2s and there was a lot of clearance.

Cusco are stronger. I had a set which gave me 3 deg neg on maximum setting. (ideal for track/slicks - 1 deg would be plenty for street use.) I took them out as they wore my street tyres too much and I didn't want to pay for an alignment before and after each track day. I now have the adjustable bushes which give me about 1.5 neg. What is the issue that you have which you are trying to fix?

Sure it was a genuine Tomei fpr? Were a few fakes floating around. I have a Walbro 4 -5 years old still working fine. it was a bit smaller than the original and had to be secured with cable ties. I think I used the original pickup but can't remember now. Maybe your pump has come loose in the cradle. Its not too hard to get at to have a look.

Take the line off the intake and put it in a container and see how much oil it collects. If it is filling with oil you need a better baffled catch can and /or a proper air/oil separator (not a mower fuel filter) either a Nismo item or a properly fabricated one. If you are worried about excessive blow by get a leak down test.

Why can you not run a bigger exhaust? Is it the noise or just the size of the pipe that attracts attention? Going to 3.5in from 3in will allow roughly 35% more flow.

Pretty sure Mines have no influence over the Nissan part numbers. Did your ecu have a Mines sticker on it? Post up your location and someone may have an ecu for you to try. An R34 GTT ecu will probably do the job. Or just rip the insides out and install a Link or Vipec!!

R32 GTST box $350 http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/gearboxes/auction-700706729.htm

Looks impressive but don't seem to have found their way down to NZ.

Like that steering wheel better then the Momo version!

!! I make 314AWKW with 550 Deatschwerks injectors. 600s will be fine.

Do you have a boost gauge? Are you sure you have the boost turned right down or have you turned it right up? Post up your location and see if you can get someone to have a look at your set-up.

Bigger is not necessarily better. You will need something like 275 tyres which at 19in quality tyres will be a small fortune!

Get someone to FAST your vin no.

I do not belong to the Green Party. I do belong to a couple of car clubs and drive a gas guzzling RB30 but that does not mean I can avoid being aware of the real dangers of climate change and the contribution that carbon emissions make to this problem. I plan to run my car on E85 when it becomes available at the pump. In NZ most ethanol is produced as a by product of the milk industry and I support public funds (my taxes) being used to research more and better alternative fuels.

No transfer is a good synthetic atf diffs depend on whether you have a mechanical LSD or the viscous one.

I've painted the grill matt black too but wouldn't get rid of the chrome strip as it will make the car look more dumpy if you know what I mean...

SOLD THANKS

How'd the compression test go?

Nope synchro mode just distributes drive 50% front and rear (at low speeds) . Front has no LSD although a good mod if you have already done the back!

Rear wing looks like stock Autech 260RS

Yep route both cam covers to the catch can and you could block off the pcv valve too. The line going from the intake manifold to your ecu is presumably for the map sensor and should not be connected to any other line.

Drilling out the oil drains to 10mm and relieving the drains is a good idea but I haven't done it. More important is the restrictors and the sump breathers so you are on the right track. Spend a little time reading this thread and you will see that the so-called "head drain" is a waste of time. If your catch can has baffles inside it should be fine to vent it into your intake as I do. If there is too much oil vapour you will need a second, baffled catch can in that line or a proper oil/air separator. Catch can vented to atmosphere is illegal except on a track only car and on a street car you don't want those smells coming in through your ventilation system anyway.

Synchro mode is working LSD is not. You need a proper mechanical LSD. You can tell if the synchro mode is working because both (in your case only on one side) front and rear are spinning.