KiwiRS4T

Rings, bearings, rod bolts don't worry about studs should be ok. How much power do you want? 300kw is easy more you really want forged high comp pistons (crank and rods normally ok) and a balance and a new harmonic balancer. Oil control as per Mark's post.

I just used the stock throttle body - cut a little bit out of the fuse box - don't really see it when the lid is on.

Tony (SDU president) did a bulk buy on Nistune - don't know if he has any left. Torque Performance can install and tune Nistune possibly Glenn Suckling (Helensville) as well.

If it runs fine most of the time its unlikely to be the fuel reg - more likely to be something to do with the pick up. I ran mine empty to see how far I could go with the red light on and it went fine until the last drop and just died then.

I think the GTT had traction control - probably an easy fix to get rid of the engine warning light but I don't know what it is.

Where do you live? If you are in Auckland there is a regular Friday night meet where you can check out what other people have done and get advice and pointed to suppliers etc. $2500 will only pay for the supply and tuning of a Link. Cheaper is a Nistune chip. Or if you can find Andy (X-Tune) he can tune and custom make a chip for you. He supplied my injectors and can probably also supply a Deatschwerks pump. Sadly Cats are now mandatory (for about the last year or two).

That's off a 98/99 manual turbo so should be fine.

I would think the half shafts have to be able to move in and out as the suspension travels from one extreme to the other.

Using a Venom 100cell 5in cat.

Honestly I found I could corner much faster while held in with a decent seat - I have used an aftermarket bucket seat and also a Recaro from a Euro Honda and both gave excellent results. I suspect a GTR seat would be also be ok and would have the advantage of bolting straight in to the existing holes without the need for an aftermarket seat base and slider.. As part of my cert process I had to fit seat belt anchors to the transmission tunnel so pretty secure as well.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/33407-how-to-turbo-your-na/page-42 post no 822 - this guy has (had?) an R34 GTT ecu for sale

I wanted a .86 on my GT35/40 but was talked into a .63 and it does the job of getting my heavy Stagea moving - makes useful boost/power by 3500 although maximum is less than it could be:

Yep had one the other day - shot bearing - you could feel it almost seize up if you tried to turn it by hand. Second hand replacement fixed it (new one better I guess).

I am running PFR7G gapped to 0.8mm at the recommendation of my tuner and it revs to its 7000 maximum at 1.5 bar no problem. The fact that your engine runs fine in 1st and not in 2nd suggests you may be running out of fuel. The new Walbro 465LPH E85 pumps are supposed to be pretty good (best if directly wired for full battery voltage).

Read somewhere in this site that some early Walbros had a couple of holes at the bottom that suggested that they needed to be fully submerged to function properly. Apparently this changed for later models. Don't know the truth of this but if you can get your hands on another pump that would be worth a try.

The only ones I have seen have at least a half cage.

Well done! Pity about the AWD though. Maybe repair your dead motor at your leisure and stick it back in later with some new half shafts etc.

This^^^

No machining but but cleaned up and new rings, bearings and conrod bolts. Currently on 314AWKW done about 50,000km blows a little smoke but uses very little oil between changes. Worth doing a roughy but if I had the money I would have preferred a rebore with forged high comp pistons and a good balance (rods and crank would be fine as is).

The extra volume comes from longer pedal travel (goes closer to the floor) so may require an adjustment. I haven't had a car with a clutch m/c booster - is yours working as it should? If so I am surprised that your clutch action is still so hard. Sounds like the slave cylinder swap is the go.

This is from my Japanese language Nissan Stagea manual but I am guessing it is for the RB20E TCM as the RB25 has it incorporated with the main engine ECU:

Unless the bench testing is aiming to compare the actual flow with the nominal flow it is just a comparative test comparing flow before and after cleaning and each injector with the other. From the figures above all you can say is that the flow rates are within a range of 3% which I believe is just acceptable. It doesn't tell you if you have 850 injectors or 550. The people who did the cleaning and testing should have supplied you with a full written report.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110431-diy-aac-valve-cleaning-idle-reset/

If you don't have a multi meter buy one - they are dirt cheap these days - or else go to an auto electrician tell him you think your alternator is on the way out and he should check the output for you without cost

What's the issue? Have you had it tuned?