KiwiRS4T

The two coolant sensors are on the inlet for the top hose - one for the gauge and one for the ecu. The one in front of the condenser is for the aircond.

If they don't they are the small wiring issues that you have to sort. Speedo may read wrong unless the senders are interchangeable.

Just do a straight swap then = the Neo motor + loom + nistuned ecu (and manual box) into the R33 and the R33 engine, box, Haltech and loom into the R34 that should pretty much run and there might be a few small wiring issues to sort out. Not many people would put an R33 engine into an R34 unless it was an RB26DETT

Here ya go (hate to think what it costs) rated at 750hp: http://quaife.co.uk/shop/products/qbe91g-0

They are a Quaife item - nothing to do with Trust as far as I know. They rate them at 750hp (560kw) http://quaife.co.uk/shop/products/qbe91g-0

If you have an auto S1 the only way you can tune it is to piggy back something on to the OEM ecu such as a Greddy E-Manage or if you're rich a Link or Vipec. You haven't said what your fuel consumption is. I get 12L per 100km if I am careful... or can get 10L per 100km on a long trip if I aim for economy or 15 or 20L or worse if I boot it hard.

I would hold out for a manual GTT pull both engines and swap the blocks. I assume you will be able to use the Haltech (don't really know) on the Neo so will will need a stock ecu for the R33.

Yes if you get the right weight. I have used it (Agip) in my RB30 including a track day (on Motul 10W 40 300V chrono now though)but probably best not to use on track ...

By a while I meant for a couple of weeks!

You mean the triangular thing that makes it sound like a strangled chook? Darn it I threw mine out when I got the hose adapter - didn't realize they were sought after! Here ya go: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/other/auction-718384941.htm

I don't see what's wrong with the ebay kits. Sure you want a genuine bov but the recirculating kit is just moving air around - hardly high tech unlike the bov itself.

Short of pulling it down I have seen suggestions of running a diesel (high detergent) oil in your engine for a while as a possible cure.

Have a read of this: http://www.carcraft.com/howto/116_0701_how_to_degree_a_camshaft/ I'm no expert but luckily have plenty of expertise available locally. If you haven't maybe you need to become one! Tip for CAS timing put a lead between the coil and no 1 plug and time off that.

Did you replace the fuel filter in the engine bay? A fuel pressure test would indicate if your pump was at fault (on the way out). Have you had a look at this thread?: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110431-diy-aac-valve-cleaning-idle-reset/

Anyone (in NZ probably) looking for an M35 towbar? http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/accessories/auction-717330888.htm

Eibach springs...

Yes they are the same thing - 89CAL was looking at your current list and missed your shopping list.

Try in the general (not Stagea) parts wanted section.

If you are poor you can use the cheapest ATF you can find - I like synthetic or semi synthetic - no point in paying silly prices for Nissan branded stuff. Transmax Z would be fine. I take it you have found the reservoir in the boot? Don't know where it is in a Skyline - I have a Stagea and its on the RHS just in front of the tail light cluster behind a flap. There is a complicated bleed procedure involving a switch inside the drivers kick panel but what most people do is just leave the motor running and crack open the bleed nipple at the back of the transfer case. If you look really hard you will find another above the rear diff but a lot of people probably don't even know its there but if you're keen crack that open and shut a few times as well. If its more convenient you can fill up by pulling out the gear lever (so they say - never done it myself but apparently a fewpeople have come unstuck thinking that's how you top up the gearbox!) If you do a Google search on "Nissan Attesa" system you will get lots of info and some pics

Welcome to the world of high maintenance car ownership! Plugs are NGK as above. Gap them down to 0.8mm regardless of whether or not you have replaced the coils. I use Motul products myself although I see LiquiMoly is the No1 seller in Germany!. Just make sure you use a quality synthetic oil. It shouldn't be using a lot of oil. If it doesn't come right get a compression test and/or a leak down test. If it continues to pour out black sooty smoke get it put on a dyno (there are good tuners in Sydney) for a tune/diagnostic.

For the tie rod end you must specify the year, awd or 2wd. Nissan should be able to do it from your VIN no. For the windscreen just ring any autoglass supplier with your year and model and tell them you want the factory tint and not the windscreen heater (if you don't have or want the windscreen heater).

Coppers NGK BCPR6ES or Platinum PFR6ES in either case gap them down to 0.8mm

If you can keep your wastegate closed longer you may make more boost. You say you need airflow not boost but to use your terminology when your boost gauge reads 20 psi that indicates that the turbo has caught up to the flow through the engine - you have no other way of measuring flow unless you have a read out from the maf. Having said that it is possible that your turbo has indeed run out of puff but check the wastegate boost control first.

Its either standard or its not. If not what are the mods? Does it have a turbo? When did you last change the plugs or the fuel filter?

Duncan what do you have against MAP based ecus on a road car? My Link is (and Vipecs are) MAP based. What do you feel is the downside? Yes I track my car but 95% of my km are on the road.