KiwiRS4T

Get a manual box! But seriously have you checked the condition and level of the ATF. Dirty burnt brown colour means its overdue for replacing. Count the flashes - the codes are here somewhere - someone will know!.

Get a new seal.

Think its in the boot lining LHS just forward of the compartment.

Over here the 260RS are to be had for about $16000 these days so now cheaper than a conversion...and you could add a six speed box if you really want.

Here's one if you're quick - Nistune chip already installed: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/ecus/auction-729478869.htm

Do they come on with the headlamps? Funny you should mention dimmer switches. My old 1939 Vauxhall had one my current truck has one but C34 Stageas don't!

I didn't say centre diff I'm talking about a LSD centre for the FRONT diff - Quaife are popular although there is probably a Nismo, Kaaz, or Cusco unit to suit. If you haven't already got the Sards ID injectors from the US or Australia will probably be a cheaper and better option.

=42 will require 25mm spacers at least to clear your suspension. Personally I was very happy with my 17 x 9 on my lowered suspension - meant I could have some decent tyres (255 40). I have gone to 18s to try to get a little taller gearing but if you run 19s you will have very thin (30 aspect) tyres which are not very street friendly. Pic shows 17 x 9s (subsequently lowered the front one more circlip groove Second pic shows a set of Nissan 18s (which I reckon are plenty big enough)I trialled before I got my current CE28Ns: [/url]

A 4.1 diff gives me a theoretical 296km/hour at 7000rpm in 5th (roughly - best I have achieved on a track is about 250) so a 4.3 would bring that down to about 282km/hr . Therefore in your case a 4.1 diff should gain you nearly 20km/hr which should be plenty for most circuits without making your car seem "laggy" and would enable you to hang on a bit longer in each gear should you choose. And as you have observed 4.1 diffs are very common and available in 6x1. 5x1 or 3x2 bolt patterns.

You can't. Garrett make it very hard and or expensive to get replacements. That's one of the reasons the GCG rebuilds are so expensive. Try Hypergear - he will know if they can be got.

Can't tell the size from a pic - it could be as small as a thimble or as big as a dustbin! What is the capacity in litres? How much is it?

What is a bottle of oil? 5L? 2L If necessary I would pull the engine apart before buying another. it could be relatively cheap to repair as opposed to buying another unkown quantity.

They stock the whiteline stuff but not the non standard items I have had to import them myself. If you can get it through Dale that's the way to go!

And a couple of Aussie workshops have installed VCT on the RB26 head but I assume it would be a pretty expensive exercise.

Front and rear diffs on GTS-4 are 4.3 (as opposed to GTR 4.1)so may be better for dragging. You may benefit from a LSd centre for the front - don't really know much about drag racing. Have a read of the "over 400kw" thread for some more ideas. There is a trend to single turbos (especially for drag racing) so have a read of the borg warner and precision threads. I got the impression 272 cams were good for drag racing but not much else but I would have thought they would have more than stock lift. How much lift do you have? Assuming you are going to run on pump petrol you will need at least ID750 injectors or better. Plus a surge tank and some decent pumps.

Will be much easier with a GTS-4 shell

If you replace the turbo another tune should not cost $880. Speak to the tuner and see what he says.

There's probably more to come. Is your car dead stock? You'll need a FMIC and better exhaust as well. An initial tune with new turbo, new afm and injectors etc will not be a simple tune but will take time to do properly. To soften the blow you could plan the upgrade and try to acquire all the gear yourself as cheaply as possible. Then get a price for the install and tune.

I had that experience. Panelbeaters would quote $500 per door because they really didn't want the work. I was lucky to be directed to a panelbeater who did both sides (welding in metal) for $200 but that's in Auckland so no use to you! You really have to look for someone advertising that they do rust repairs.

If you are also going to relocate the battery you can get a combined washer reservoir and catch can fabricated to go in that space.

Thermostat is ideal (I never had one on my auto) but if you use the stock connection for the heat exchanger in the bottom of the radiator that should avoid any over cooling. A fan should not be necessary so any radiator that is bigger than your stock one will be fine. I had an S1 so used the same Davis Craig cooler as in this tutorial: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/59399-transmission-cooler/ If it is not bigger than your S2 cooler than you will have to find a different one.

Don't try to run it this weekend. Don't listen to your mate. Take it to someone who knows how engines work.

Resounding silence. Get some new wheels.

Use ATF it works fine (quality synthetic preferably).

Yep mine has done 180,000 but I have replaced the block with one that has probably already done more! With the money I have spent on it I need it to last forever!