KiwiRS4T

This is what I have and its far too low (compressions are in the range 130 - 132 psi). OP is going to use the Neo head which will give better CR (and be better all round).

Your pics show the stock links. I got a set of KLC109 from Dale and now have a much better fit.

Yes R33 head - just cleaned up. Making just over 300AWKW. Stock head bolts and main bearing cap bolts just better rod bolts. You'll do better with a Neo head and suitable turbo.

Avoid Peddars!

From worn out shitty pads to any half decent new pads WILL make a world of difference! For a street car if your rotors are in good cond the most important things are to replace the brake fluid (probably never been changed in many cases) and get some good pads.

I have seen bits break off new D2s so if OZ are the same definitely avoid. I got my Bilsteins from Bilstein Motorsports in Penrose but Auto Alignment nationwide carry them as well. Or you can look on TradeMe for some imported HKS or Tein etc and get a suspension shop to check them out before you install them.

Facts are few on the ground re compression ratios - nobody seems to actually measure them. If you are going to stick with stock pistons and put a Neo head on top then that doesn't really leave you much ability to affect the outcome but hopefully it will be nearer 9:1 than 8:1 After 240,000km I would be inclined to do bearings and if you are not going to replace big end bolts you should probably use a 6,500 rev limit. Mine is a cheapo job - rings, bearings and big end bolts (no balancing) and with stock pistons probably some where around 8:1 (less than ideal). I have an N1 pump and have been revving it to 7000 for about 3 years.

Is it a track only car or for street use as well? I have a Walbro lift pump and one 044 from the surge tank but its as loud as and I wouldn't want two of them. If I were doing it again (and if I were you) I would use one (or two) of the more modern pumps such as the latest Walbro Or DW pumps.

Will the OS Giken unit fit your box?

You're right up to a point - neons, stickers, etc are a matter of choice but excessively stretched tyres have the potential to make the driver a danger to others.

No they won't fit. Tyre walls meant to be vertical. What is the point of buying good wheels that won't fit your car and then putting stupidly small tyres on them? If you want to run 265s a set of 9in wheels will do it.If you want to run 11in wheels get some 295s as you say and get a panelbeater to make you some massive guards.

Never heard of them which is not to say they are no good. There is a number of good brands and a lot of rubbish out there. From my own experience I can say Cusco makes quality components.

I believe the standard RB20 set up is as you suggest - connect compressor to wastegate actuator (set at 10 psi).

Any quality (preferably synthetic) ATF for the transfer case. Something like Syntrax 75W 90 for the gearbox or from Motul: Motylgear 75W 90

Did you read what Duncan wrote? If the previous owner put gear oil down the gear lever it went into the transfer case (and possibly overflowed as well). If he somehow ran a hose though the gear lever boot into the transfer case that's another story. You need to check. If he drained the gearbox through the bottom plug and didn't fill it properly then it soon won't be just your speedo that doesn't work.

Yep you can get a Nismo centre for your diff

Just noticed that if you hover over the RH side of the pic you will find a forward arrow that gives you access to a whole load of pics.

ECU will be fine. There is a method for putting the AWD system into 2wd but are you planning to remove the awd components including the front half shafts (in which case you will have to make sure your front wheels don't fall off) and transfer case... or to just remove the front drive shaft?

380kw is not to be sneezed at! Do you have a chart of the boost curve?

Would only take you a minute to create a name and password then you could see the whole build thread but I'll stick up a few pics: http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t381/Lilnismo/GTR%20Engine%20Rebuild/20130815_131731_KillarneyRd_zpsc3115a26.jpg http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t381/Lilnismo/GTR%20Engine%20Rebuild/20130815_131808_KallarnieRd_zpse411a1fc.jpg http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t381/Lilnismo/GTR%20Engine%20Rebuild/20130815_131830_KallarnieRd_zps92fef62a.jpg http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t381/Lilnismo/20131128_144707_zps7edfc4f3.jpg http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t381/Lilnismo/20131210_153532_zps744ff9c5.jpg

If you have bought these wheels you are going to have to do some work because I doubt anyone has the same combination of diameter, widths and offset to be able to tell you exactly what you need. What I can tell you is that getting the same rolling diameter front and rear (I assume you have the Atessa awd) is the hard part - never mind your speedo - that's not that important. In order to achieve that you will need staggered fitment e.g. Nitto Invo (which I am using as an example as I have just put some on my car) front 225 35 19 rear 265 30 19. With the spacers needed to clear your suspension the rears at least will not fit in your guards so you will have to undertake some serious modification.

Why are you installing a FCD and what do you hope to achieve with it?

One of our (SDU) members has just fitted a Racefab sump - pics on post numbers 545 653 657 and 685 http://www.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=66378&page=22

$750 exchange but I guess freight makes that difficult: http://racefab.co.nz/index.htm

FWIW my memory let me down. 4.1 diff is actually doing about 40km/hr per 1000rpm so 280 at 7000 rev/min. Should still be enough for most tracks.