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KiwiRS4T

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Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. KiwiRS4T
  2. KiwiRS4T
    I use my wagon for towing and don't usually boost it that much as it has good low down torque with the RB30 block.
  3. KiwiRS4T
    That'll be your problem... not the oil.
  4. KiwiRS4T
    If your box was ok before you should have held out for the Motul. Does your clutch pedal have the same amount of free play as previously?
  5. KiwiRS4T
    If you buy from Rips he will do whatever you want from a short block to a fully functional engine or anywhere in between. if you get the short block you can get it shipped to your mechanic and then drop your car off to him and then sell off the left over parts later. Will Spool imports supply you a ready built 3.2 short block with awd sump?
  6. KiwiRS4T
    Don't know if its the same but for my Stagea had to get an R33 M/C
  7. KiwiRS4T
    No because my RB30 is a stock block except for rings, bearings and conrod bolts
  8. KiwiRS4T
    I see my earlier post is dated a year ago and everything seems ok despite oil pressures similar to yours. I'm using Motul 300V 10W 40
  9. KiwiRS4T
    As above - that's what I do. If you have too much oil vapour insert another air/oil separator in the line (or another properly baffled catch can).
  10. KiwiRS4T
    Cheaper still is to idle by the cops in a high gear. Varex are illegal here (probably in Aus too) although M35s are probably not cop magnets. I think my exhaust is just legal but I avoid high revs around town especially around cops or coming home late at nights.
  11. KiwiRS4T
    Got some pics including under bonnet?
  12. KiwiRS4T
    What do you call hot? Do you have an oil temp gauge? The oil cooler is set to open at about 86degC but it is never completely closed allowing a small amount of flow so that would account for the oil cooler radiator being somewhat warm. BTW why are you idling your car for 15 minutes? That light could be an oil pressure warning light - what pressure does it show after 15 minutes of idling?
  13. KiwiRS4T
    Firstly stick your stock ecu back in to make sure something hasn't gone wrong. If that runs well then the only sure way to check the Nismo ecu is to put your car on a dyno and see what's going on.
  14. KiwiRS4T
    Not if you put all the stock lines back in. I was assuming that you didn't have the stock lines and just used some new hose which didn't have the restrictor.
  15. KiwiRS4T
    You have plumbed it correctly but in the stock set up there was a restrictor in the line from the intercooler pipe so without the restrictor there will be more air keeping the wastegate open (and so less boost). If you can get the EBC working that should do the job. If not grab the RB20 actuator on offer (shouldn't be too expensive) and again bypass the stock solenoid. Or a cheap boost T would be better than nothing.
  16. KiwiRS4T
    Should be fine.
  17. KiwiRS4T
    Can that be done with the engine in? I have an R34 diff I want to put into an R33 GTR sump.
  18. KiwiRS4T
    Please tell me how you get on as I am in the same boat. I have an R32GTR diff in the back of my Stagea and want the 3.545 ratio but have been avoiding the V - spec active diff but if I can just use the crownwheel and pinion that will be a lot easier (I already have the front diff ready to go).
  19. KiwiRS4T
    And aren't all piston rings "pre-cut"? They would be pretty hard to get on the pistons otherwise. Gap can only be adjusted by removing material!
  20. KiwiRS4T
    Ring gap is one thing. Difference between piston size and bore size is another.
  21. KiwiRS4T
    ^^^ What he said. It may be too late but give it a shot anyway. Drop the synthetic oil if that's what you've got and put mineral oil in. Do not labour the engine but give it plenty of welly - up to 6000 and button off and repeat. Watch for overheating and leaks and if ok continue for half an hour - then retest.
  22. KiwiRS4T
    Have you done the easy checks first - boot reservoir and brake fluid reservoir?
  23. KiwiRS4T
    So you'll need an aftermarket ecu or Nistune chip at least, a bigger AFM, possibly some oil and water lines and new exhaust and preferably a manual conversion!
  24. KiwiRS4T
    Unbelievable
  25. KiwiRS4T
    The calculation is the easy part - the measurement is the hard part. Here's a guide: https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html
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