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KiwiRS4T

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Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. Have you tried Dan from Cockram Nissan? He gives discount to SDU members. Having said that I got my C34 O2 sensor from Kudos: http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/ntk-lambda-oxygen-sensor-ntk-nissan-skyline-r32-gts-gts4-gtst-gts25-r33-gts25-gts4-gts25t-p-1023.html You could email them to see if they have one for your car.
  2. Use a synthetic oil for track use -gives you a good margin of safety if things get hot. I use Motul 300V Chrono 10W 40
  3. Since you are going to buy a new bolt put yours in a vise and apply increasing amounts of torque til it breaks and report back...
  4. I've got a Tomei H/G. The head has been removed and replaced twice and its still fine.
  5. I replaced mine at 15 years. My new OEM set are three years old and going fine. You still need to gap Splitfires down plus they don't have the track record that OEM do.
  6. Had some but may have thrown them out - can't check before Wed sorry.
  7. You can install a nipple on your compressor or the pipe that comes out of it and one on your intake if necessary.
  8. That looks A OK.
  9. Was the new motor from an auto? You need to change the auto spigot in the flywheel for a manual one. Don't know if that would cause your symptoms though and not sure if you could even have got the box in now I think about it...excuse my rambling I'm tired...
  10. RB engine is tough - will run surprising well with a couple of cylinders down but a rebuild looks indicated
  11. But you are right about the impedance. I don't have an RB26 but here is the answer: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/429842-id1000-injectors-with-rb26-resistor-ballast/
  12. There has been pages of discussion on K sport and D2 (the same thing I believe. Go back a bit in the brake section. In short they are fine with decent pads.
  13. Check out the link provided to you by Geoff. A Nistune chip inside your current ecu will make that ecu tunable. Or if you want to spend another $2K you can get a Link or Haltech or other aftermarket ecu but the Nistune will work fine for much less dollars. Once you have a tunable ecu you can stick it on a dyno and it will show if you need bigger injectors, afm and better boost control...but the tuner should be able to tune within the capabilities of what you have now. And where do you live? Find some local RB enthusiasts to come and have a look at your car and make (hopefully) helpfull suggestions!
  14. You are mistaken. OEM RB26 and R34 Neo are topfeed. R33 S1 and S2 are sidefeed.
  15. As above its possible but not really worth it. I had one like yours but just sold it and bought an Rs4. If you get some serious power you won't want an auto... but awd is good. Look for a manual with Neo turbo engine.
  16. Ok well I won't say why are you doing it but I will say I think it highly unlikely that anyone would.
  17. You guys seem really keen to avoid getting your cars "engineered". How much does it cost? My car is non standard in at least 10 significant ways but "low volume certification" done by an approved engineer cost me $550 which is pretty standard (it does vary a bit but not much).
  18. 18psi is nothing. Its all in the tune. High PSI are only a problem with stock turbos because of the limitations of the turbo.
  19. I bought Cusco castor and camber arms for the front or if you just want a small amount of adjustment you can get adjustable bushes. Can't remember the brand of the rear camber arms but you probably won't need "toe arms" you should have enough adjustment already.
  20. I think its a cr*p turbo base on a quick google. It seems it is too small to make the power you are looking for. If it is not your daily you could take the turbo off and send it to Hypergear and see if he can do anything with it, If not he will not waste your money but tell you so.
  21. Have you had a wheel alignment lately (or ever)? You should probably get front castor arms and front and rear camber arms.
  22. New plug in for 350Z. Tried a few times to upload an article without success. At the beginning it says VQ35DE only but further down it says suitable for n/a or forced induction engines. Don't know if it will be any good to M35 guys: http://www.vi-pec.com/techdata/promotional-product-brochures/350z-promo-brochure
  23. I have VCT and a GT3540 with a .63 AR but you probably want a GT3076. My charts:
  24. If there is no pressure getting to the wastegate then it will be overboosting. You need to get someone to have a look at it if its not too late already.
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