KiwiRS4T

You could have a Nistune chip in your ECU or some kind of mickey mouse boost cut defender or such like. Post up your location and try to meet some fellow skyline owners for a chat and to compare notes.

Seriously? There is so little difference. Disclaimer: I sell 1.0, 1.2 and 1.5 so no 1.1

Get an oil cooler with a built in thermostat.

Stock manifold will make 315kw and be a lot stronger than cheap Chinese stainless.

So what's the problem? 20 psi with no load? Presumably pressure climbs as you accelerate out of the corner...

Personally I find replacement stockers work well.

Use the stock manifold and Borg Warner as above or contact Hypergear tell him exactly what you want and he can supply.

If centre light is working you would think it had to be bulbs.

I got some Thule racks off a jeep. Most clamps will fit the rails so all you have to do is get the length - as a minimum you need the distance between the rail and a bit extra for the clamp and the maximum is whatever you are comfortable with. Alternatively since I am now poor if you are ever down this way you can have mine (c/w keys) for $80!

ECU reading too much boost.

OOps think you are right about the cams - just check the model here: http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/e090_camshaft-specs.html Changing springs is easy if the head is off, harder but possible with it on.

I have Cusco GTR rods (pillow though) in my WGNC34

An ECU, bigger exhaust.

I thought you were not allowed a turbo on P plates? If you leave it stock servicing should be within your capabilities - all the info is on this site. Insurance will only be a problem because of your age.

There is no way Driftworks (and everybody else) would make two different arms if one would do: http://www.jdmgarageuk.com/suspension-braking/adjustable-arms/tension-rods/driftworks-gtr-tension-rods.html I think there is a bend in the 4wd and you could also measure the overall length and the distance between the two bolts. I wouldn't be buying the 2wd version. Ikeya offer the choice of pillow or standard bush but its top quality gear and priced accordingly (although strangely the WGNC34 is priced cheaper than the GTR one although I am pretty sure its the self same item!): http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/bproduct.php?type=suspension&subtype=Rods%20and%20Control%20Arms&brand=IKEYA+FORMULA&series=&name=Tension+Rods&fromlink=1

Cusco is good gear - there are others but don't buy any unknown brand cheap stuff - not an area where you should economise. If you put on about 3deg neg (front) for the track you will immediately have to adjust your toe in and preferably get a wheel alignment. Just wind the stock rear adjusters to the max and that should be fine for a while.

In theory you can use the wires for the stock boost solenoid for the Mac valve but in fact (and I didn't install my Link) I have the optional extra loom for my boost, air temp meter and GM MAP sensor. If you go to the Link website http://www.linkecu.com/ you will find pinouts for your ecu although if you didn't install it you may not know which inputs/outputs have been used and which are free.

Photos are not helping me. Is your RB20DET stock or has it had an electronic boost controller fitted? If its stock there should be a line going from a boost source to the actuator. Start at the actuator and work backwards to check. You will not be able to get less than 10psi in this case but you can get more. Cut that line and insert your manual boost T. The bleed or vent usually goes back into the intake via the bov return pipe but as you probably won't have any fittings you will have to improvise.

^^^what he said. Rods themselves are identical to RB26.

There is also the actual fitting of the pump - location in the cradle/tank, attachment and orientation of the pickup and filter and correct connection of the fuel lines.

Well I guess that's the upside of bolt-ons ...you can unbolt them as well although you will lose money on them - but not as much as selling the modified car!

Its got nothing to do with getting tuned either you got a dud pump or you did something wrong installing it.

Did you use sealant on the cam seals? (Yes even new ones!).

You don't say what width rims you have but I have recently put some Invos on and they seem fine street tyres.

Like GTSBoy says you need to get some adjustable castor rods and wind on about 6 or 7 degrees. But that might not fix your problem. I got a set of slicks exactly the same size and type as yours and they are too big for my Stagea. I will have to go back to the 17s I had before. For comparison below is a pic of my car with 17in slicks and below that my previous Stagea with 16in semi-slicks (on GTR wheels):