KiwiRS4T

Should be no need to make a timing retard feature as the stock ecu should carry out its normal functions if the adaptronic is in fact piggybacked on.

You could have a Stagea cradle too - they have a bolt pattern of 3x2 and a couple of final drives but the most common is 4.08 (close to 4.1) and people fit them to S13s.

I have two breathers in the sump running to a catch can positioned roughly where the battery used to be. One line goes to the top of the can the other to the bottom. They both act as breathers til the catch can starts to fill and at the end of the straight when I lift off the oil drains back down to the sump. There is more to it but its all in the thread. Have you got oil restrictors? And a baffled and /or extended sump?

I have a good condition CAS (Mitsubishi, steel case) R33 type to suit S1 Stagea $65 posted anywhere in Australia - Also have a GTR Bov same price.

Learn to use Google e.g. "how to install a water temperature gauge" and you will get lots of help, videos, the lot.

Intercooler pipe off?

That's on an M35 Duncan - our C34s don't have the same huge wheel arches.

Never heard of Demon Tweaks and the UK is about 12,000 miles away - the US is closer. Accusump from Canton is available from a number of speed shops in NZ but the one that comes to mind first is Cardwell Racing. I presume there will be a number of suppliers in Australia as well.

Solder up the crack or just get a replacement stock radiator from your local shop. It should last another 15 years. I just use stock radiators in my car with the RB30 and it doesn't overheat on track days.

Maybe it was telling you the next service is due.

They are not that expensive - get the correct ones from Nissan

You get some oil via the VCT as well. Your engine is not going to get anywhere near operating temperature in one minute. When did you last have an oil and filter change?

ideally you would do a leakdown test. Alternatively you can just squirt a little oil in the cylinders and see if the compression comes up - that indicates that its rings rather than valves. And do pull the cover off and check the cam timing. Yes heaps of people are driving tired engines. The main thing is that the compression readings are close together as yours are. Are you using heaps of oil? Your car could go for years (or not).

The short answer is your wheels are too wide.

I don't know where you are but speed shops stock them or you can import directly from the US.

Apart from Nissan try an email to Greenline [email protected] or for a beefed up set Auto Gallery Yokohama http://www.ag-y.com

This R33 GTR build includes an extended sump, (same as yours I believe) HKS oil pump, oil restrictors and accusump. I'll find the page for you (although the whole thread is interesting) ...its page 47, post #701 and on the next page post #713 there is a link (reproduced below) that he made on the operation of his accusump. http:www.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/forums/index.php?topic=66378.690 Http://youtu.be/uhRfUegqwxg

Close call!! I have some new ones must get them fitted.....

What you are saying is the higher gearing not the extra weight slows acceleration but I don't believe it makes stuff all difference. Besides the nominal height might go from 16 to 18in but the increase in diameter will be less because normally you will use lower profile tyres.

Only use forged wheels myself so they are definitely lighter than stock. Not sure about rotational mass affecting acceleration and economy. Total all up weight of the car is the key and a few more or less kg on the wheels won't make that much difference The effect of increased unsprung weight on the handling is a whole other story.. Are you sure yours are heavier than stock?

Mitsubishi CAS 2371 02U10 fits R32 and R33 (half moon drive) RB20 RB25 RB26. In good condition spins freely. Posted to anywhere in Australia for $65

Is your car stock now? The only thing you would need is a Nistune chip and a tune which could come to $1000 - $1500 I would think that would give you a noticeable increase in power but not a massive one. A well made set of extractors would help but maybe not worth it if you are going to turbo it later. You should probably also get a more modern ethanol friendly fuel pump ($180). If you do go ahead ideally you would do a before and after dyno run but to save money you could just measure your 80 to 120 time in third gear before and after.

What do you call overboosting? IE what does your gauge read?

Being an R32 I would have thought for skid pan you would just pull the awd fuse and run in 2wd

If you have some old Sards etc get a set of ID2000s from Scotty and be done with it . If you already have some 1200s they should do to be going on with.