KiwiRS4T

I use a test light with a probe - no need to remove the fuses. Possible cause - there are three (maybe two its been a while) plugs that push into the back of the cluster - check that they are pushed right in.

Yes of course. Money back guarantee.

And yes get an adjustable gear for the exhaust. (Sorry - a bit late with that!)

I would guess Racefab http://racefab.co.nz/sumps.html

OP had a drop of oil on dipstick - not an empty sump but still a worry. But probably not the cause of non starting. How long was your rebuild? Could have stale fuel or crap in tank. Take out your fuel filter and turn on the ignition - plenty of fuel? Replace with a new filter and cut the old one open to have a look. Like they say - go back to basics - check the CAS - look for spark, injectors clicking - pull the plugs to see if they are oiled up and clean or replace. Double check the cam timing and cam belt.

Ring your tuner and ask him for any ideas.

Oil level ok? Sump plug and filter tight? Crap in fuel tank? When you get it going don't idle it - push it hard without thrashing it and watch water temp and check for leaks.

Blatant plug - should you need a CAS I have a good cond Mitsubishi (steel case) CAS for $65 posted!

In defence of my NZ made crank collars I don't buy the argument about excessive clearances. As someone in the link above said do what we do - Loctite the screws in the pump. If you are going for the big revs make sure everything is balanced and get a new harmonic balancer.

If I had a GTR I wouldn't be picking a tune out of the air - take it to a tuner..

Put the neo head on the S1 bottom end.

Or buy my GTR bov!

Missed that you have a Nistune. Don't bother with the Link then save yourself a couple of grand - just get a Z32 AFM

Just pull the 4wd fuse under the bonnet and probably the one in the fusebox as well.

What Brennan said - Injectors, Hypergear turbo, new fuel pump Link G4 (get a mac valve to control boost). No need to change manifolds - spend the money on a good tune. Buy Josh's turbo or get Steve Murch to make you one.

9.6:1 would be great.

Huzqld you should easy make the 450hp with a good tune, the right fuelling and at least 3in exhaust.

There is actually an RB30 section above, Also read the RB30 Hybrid upgrade dyno results section to see what people have done to make power.

Nitto do a 3.2 kit for the 30 block!!

I would get an RB30 myself but if you are set on a 2.7 I would go for the local product.

Get a set of well designed extractors

So far as I can tell the engine ecu doesn't control the Atessa - there is a separate ecu in the boot for that. It just does the engine and the auto.

Give the 2wd one a go. There would be more GTT ecus around than Stageas.

Most of the big power (1000kw) engines that Rips build are for drags - often with 2 speed drag auto and are useless for street or track. The engines he builds for road cars and track cars generally get by with half that much power.

Just get a return flow one from Just Jap or similar - much easier to fit.