KiwiRS4T

Do they have a dyno and a tuner? It should start up and be run in on the dyno and tuned and then ideally you will get another tune when its done about 10,000.

1. Put it on your computer and attach it to your post or 2. Open e.g. a photobucket account (free) put it on there and then cut and paste the link Does it have a brand name on it?

If you can get the GTT CW & P to fit in the R34 GTR centre you're halfway there. Did you get any axles (half shafts) with the R34 GTR rear end? Axles of the right length may be your next challenge. And making sure all the wheel speed sensors are compatible. Are you trying to replicate the whole Atesssa set up with ECU, central sensor etc or are you copying the English model of just using a stand alone controller (as in another thread here)?

Congratulations! That's the last and rarest! But it might be the same as Duncan's so his mod might work for you.

It would be good to know what loom you have. Do you know the number of the original ecu? If it is the most common type then pin 14 with G/R wire should be the air cond relay control signal pin 21 P air cond switch signal pin 27 outside temp sw signal 1 pin 28 outside temp sw signal 2 Do you have all of these working? Do you know that the aircond was working before the conversion was done? My Stagea has a GTT Link installed and the aircond worked fine (I know that doesn't help you!)

Nismo or Cusco

You still haven't said what's wrong with it. If its just the universals a driveshaft specialist can machine out the old ones and put in new ones. Have you priced a new one from Nissan to use as a yardstick?

Go with the Hypergear - no turbo lasts for ever and the Hypergear will also be cheaper to rebuild.

You won't be getting a tune unless you have an aftermarket ecu. If you plan to increase power in the future look into getting a Nistune chip.

As above Put the FMIC back in and make sure all the hoses are tight and remove the T from the fpr line. As for a boost source - the line you blocked off on the bov return pipe was for the bleed line - you must have had another line to supply boost to the original boost solenoid (normally from the pipe going to the intercooler).

You'll need to clamp it with something - it won't boost without load you have to be driving it.

Fuel pressure reg is not a good place top tap into ...but pull the hose off the actuator and see if you show any boost - if so you have got the controller hooked up wrong or its a dud. Be careful not to overboost!

What exactly is the problem? If the driveshaft is similar to (not necessarily identical to ) the C34 one it is just the universals that wear out and they can be replaced. Are you saying that the splines on the driveshaft have some how got damaged? What part costs $900? Will a second have driveshaft fix your problem?

I didn't say the GTR axles would fit in the Stagea diff I said the other end would fit in the hubs. However if your diff was from a 260RS you are in luck as it will be 4.1 (you can easily check by counting the teeth on the pinion and the CW) and also it will have a proper LSD

Not so much has anyone gone to the effort ... more has anyone been prepared to risk their engine with new technology! They look good, have been tested at high rpm (11,000) and power (1000hp) the only element missing is longevity - if I were in the market for one (to be honest I'm not) I would like to see a few engines that have done 10,000km or more on one. Plus 450 pounds sterling is a lot of dollars!

^^^happened to me too - blew a piston on my RB25DET - broken ringlands - still went well but used to blow the dipstick out!

R34 Skyline probably others. Which pipe? Have you lost gas? If so remove the pipe and take a pic and hawk it around the wreckers. Or someone could make one up or repair yours.

I have one you could have but its probably 4 days by post!

Sorry I meant Stagea at 4.08 is close to the R33GTR 4.11 diff which you have in the front - I assumed you would not be using the 3.545 out of the R34GTR diff. I don't know if the Stagea CW&P will fit the R34 LSD diff - you will soon know - and as I say there is a small difference in the ratio but it may not be significant or you can overcome it with wheel/tyre combinations. I do think the 6 x 1 axles can fit the Stagea hubs as I have 6 x 1 axles in my Stagea (although I think the GTR hubs may be lighter than the Stagea ones if you want to saveweight) but you need to carefully check the lengths as in some case an axle may be an inch or less too short and fall out! 6 x 1 axles are found on all GTRs, GTS-4, some 300Z and the Stagea 260RS (pretty rare in the US I would think) and not all are the same length including being different left and right.

Graeme got a side on pic of your car? Are those rear guards steel or fiberglass?

From my much more modest experience with a basic RB30 I would say there is no way the 3.2 could not be a great daily driver even with 400 or 500awkw if tuned appropriately. I agree 1000 injectors would give you a little margin ... those 700s could well get maxed out on E85

Long extension with universal joint? Best done from under the car IIRC

Done a compression test?

Flat battery

Over here we have people who specialize in CV replacements and they are usually quicker and cheaper than the Nissan agents... so its not so much Stagea experience you need as a CV specialist.