KiwiRS4T

You didn't say at the outset that it was a 3076 - I think that's your explanation - its too small to make more boost with your stroker. Boost is a measure of the resistance to flow. You are obviously flowing plenty to make the power you do but don't generate a big boost number to get there.

Stock cambelts are good for up to 130,000 so if you replace them every 100,000 you will be fine. Read the buyer's guide above and wait till you get the car to see if anything needs doing.

Two more ideas - you could ask your question in the forced induction section or you could email Nissan -apparently they do respond to questions.

OK well you can use the old one to measure if you know where TDC is. Either use a protractor to find out what the other two are or measure the circumference and divide by 36 to get 10deg increments or by 72 to get 5deg increments.

Well I just checked my Stagea Service manual and it shows the same markings as in the DIY section at the top of this page http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73824-adj-camshaft-pulley-new-cam-belt/ i.e. 7 marks from TDC to 30deg BTDC in 5 deg increments. Does your new balancer have no markings? Would have been good to put some on with e.g. a protractor before you installed it. If you have no idea of what the markings are hopefully you can assume one is TDC and then you can calculate what the others are from the circumference of the balancer.

If you control boost with a Mac valve and a computer such as a Link you can have different settings for different gears.

Sale? Your selling the car after all that work?

Different offset changes the track too. I have tracked my 1800kg Stagea with front and rear spacers without incident. The key is hub centric (i.e. the correct size for your hub) bolt-ons. Up to 20mm are legal in NZ although bigger ones can be certified if they satisfy the engineer as being safe. Ideally you would get the right offset but I bought a set of Rays for $1200 and used spacers to suit. I can't afford the $4000+ to import the ideal offset wheels.

Wrong way round. Put lights on high beam and adjust until they hit wall at our just below headlamp level. When you dip they should go down.

Replace the chip with a Nistune chip and get it tuned properly with VCT operating. Compressions are low but don't indicate any major fault.

I'll say it will make whatever you want... but my guess is 450 awkw at 30 psi on petrol. It will be a great DD because of the extra capacity. Stock GTR is not fast.

^^^What he said, Judging by your many threads your mechanical knowledge is quite limited and while its good to expand your skills I suspect you won't be ready any time soon to undertake an engine transplant. If you are going to buy an RB26 and pay someone to install it in your car the cost will likely be not much less than if you were to sell your car and buy a GTR.

There is (or should be) a connection to a heat exchanger in the bottom of the radiator (not the intercooler).

Something else - normally the radiator . This helps to bring the auto up to temp quickly from a cold start. I would guess temps are normally high where you live so a thermostat may not be necessary. If you are keen you could install a temp gauge for a while and see what you get.

No idea what to expect from that turbo. Are you able to measure boost before and after the fmic in case it is somehow blocked? When you pressurized the turbo intake could someone read the boost gauge to see if it was getting the same reading?

If Rips can do 1300 hp (boost is irrelevant at this point) on 25 studs then studs (if they are properly torqued down) are probably not your problem. Maybe your gasket is a problem or maybe the head and / or block need to be trued.

Castor as in the front wheel of your bicycle keeps you going in a straight line - 5 - 7deg is good on a Skyline and as with a bike not necessary on the rear

I have a Synapse wastegate with 4 ports and it took me a while to work out how to set it up. I had to reread the instructions for the W/G a few times. What I am saying is the instructions that came with the EBC may be not enough to tell you how to set up your Tial. Is there anything on their website? BTW what kind of ECU do you have? It may do a better job of controlling your Mac valve than the EBC.

You are wrong but no point repeating all the arguments that are pretty much resolved later in the thread.

That is correct. But for some reason you seemed to think that it was originally set up one tooth out (an unlikely scenario). So if it was done right originally and the people who replaced the belt put it back correctly then you just need to check the CAS timing.

That's why I suggested reading just the last 15 pages. Ideas have developed since that thread was started and oil drains at the back of the head are generally agreed to be a waste of time and proper sump venting to a catch can the way to go. BTW RB26 and even RB30s can be made to spin to 10,000 rpm if you do it right.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/?&hl=sk+oil+control Its very long - you could just read the last 10 - 15 pages.

Provided the cam belt was put on in the correct place in the first place adjustment is made on a dyno until the best or desired result is achieved - potentially a very time consuming exercise.

OK here's my contribution - others may have a different view: Caster 7deg Camber 1.5deg neg Front Camber 1.0deg neg rear Don't know what toe would work on your car. Although just saw Duncan's post and as he says not much is adjustable from stock parts - just toe in and and small amount of rear camber BTW if you do have adjustable camber arms and have a lot of camber (say 3deg) dialed in it will tippy toe in a straight line and feel better on cornering.

For quite a while I have been unable to reply to posters and unable to paste links or anything else for that matter. Have just resolved by changing to Google Chrome Was previously on IE (and Windows 7)