KiwiRS4T

They are called relays. There should be a key on the fuse box lid.

How sure are you about the 9:1 compression? You planed the head to get the compression up and then dished the pistons to get it down? Do a compression reading and see what you get I don't know what your cam settings are - they seem a prime suspect.

Look inside the car under the pedal behind the carpet.

Its probably too big for your car. What do you use the car for and what other mods do have (or have planned)?

The advantage of VCT is that you can dial in your cams for response at as low a revs as possible and then still get a good push further up when your static cams would lag behind. So VCT does not of itself create better response but it enables you to set up for maximum reponse while getting better power further up than if you did not have VCT. QED LOL ROFL ETC

Yep if its a 3.69 it should be a helical. Should be a good open road cruiser. You won't find a front one to match - have you decided to stay 2wd (removed the front driveshaft)?

I couldn't even get "quote" to work never mind multiquote - had to change from IE to Google Chrome

Did you get a helical or viscous LSD? A viscous, especially an old one, would seem a waste of energy! Also some S15 diffs are 4.083 same as the Stagea (although there are a couple of other S15 ratios too).

The GTR they came off is AWD so Nissan will have figured out the right width and profile to make bigger rears than fronts work with the Attessa.

Which Koni? Have you had a read of SK's "Shockabsorbers 101" at the top of this section?

Go with what the tuner likes.

You can't tell that your AFM and Nistune is "maxed out" by reading. Your tuner will tell you when that happens. How many turbos and how many afms do you have? I doubt anything is "maxed out" at 310awkw..if your tuner can't tune it because of the afms get a couple of RB25 afms. Yes a Link would be great if money is burning a hole in your pocket but the ecu, map sensor, temp sensor, installation and tune won't leave much change out of $3k

We don't all know that because it isn't true. See for example the Borg Warner range of internal waste gated turbos. If your budget is tight a Hypergear turbo would bolt straight on to your stock exhaust manifold. I got reasonable boost control on my IWG GCG highflowed RB25DET with a Jaycar boost controller! Having said that for my RB30 I got a Synapse wastegate and using a Link and a Mac valve got pretty much "rock solid" boost

In what way do you think it will be superior to the stocker you have on now?

Just saw this for sale! http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/auction-875967811.htm

My top Japanese tuner tunes rich but not so rich that it causes problems. He also recommended PFR7G plugs gapped to 0.8mm (If you have BCPR7ES they should be ok as well). I wouldn't worry too much about the guarantee - your engine should not blow up if you take it to a reputable tuner. Give CRD a last chance to fix it (for free) . Ask them for the torque, kw, boost and AFR charts - any tuners i have used are happy to supply them - and post them up in here. If you are not 100% happy take it to another tuner. Note: I have attached a chart (not from the Japanese tuner) from my old auto RB25DET (with stock ecu, Apexi SAFC , Apexi SITC and Jaycar boost controller!)) showing power, torque, boost and AFRs on one page just as an example, Some tuners will put them on two or four pages.

There is a lot more to tuning than meets the eye. If you want to become a tuner and buy all the gear and learn on your own car that's one thing but if you think you can do it yourself just to save money you are wrong! So your choice of ecu should be guided by what local tuners are happy to use and preferably a tuner who has RB experience (maybe get on the UK GTR forum for some pointers).

Hard to say - I'm in NZ but I took the car in because one of the rears was knocking - he fixed one for $150- and said the other one was fine (as were the fronts). I had about 30,000 on them.

Have you priced getting the Bilsteins recond?

One possible cause is insufficient level in the BRAKE fluid reservoir (I'm speaking from experience here).

If you get a Link ecu you will not need a separate boost controller because the Link will do that via a Mac Valve. Also if you plug in a lap top you can read all the parameters you want. And as a bonus you will be able to tune your engine properly.

You could get your injectors cleaned and tested. You haven't mentioned the afm. You could try cleaning it and also checking the plug.

If you want to monitor ecu parameters get yourself an ecutalk display that plugs into your consult port: http://www.ecutalk.com/

The tuner doesn't need to know anything about the SMT6 because you are going to remove it. You just need to ensure the original wiring is returned to stock. Hmm may not be as simple as it sounds... Had a quick Google. Did you find the makers instructions? They include this: ". The SMT6 User Kit includes the following items: SMT6 Unit with Injector Driver SMT6 Harness (Wiring Loom) SMT6 Communications Cable SMT6 Shorting Plug (Bridging Plug) This useful product allows you to revert your vehicle to stock standard, should you need to remove the installed SMT6 unit for any reason" Also you may need to check if there has been any alteration to coil resistance

Everyone knows that dry sump is the best and that modifying RBs to produce twice to four times their design power brings a range of problems - this thread is dedicated to overcoming the oiling problems for those who can't afford/don't need a dry sump and as far as I am concerned it has succeeded.